Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

what clutch fluid to use?

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Old 09-15-2008, 08:45 AM
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Default what clutch fluid to use?

so i have a 01 T/A with a t56 mods being long tubes ory intake fidanzia flywheel and spec stage 2 clutch. when i get on it and run threw the gears i couldn't get it in. driving it normally it goes in. i'm aware of how the stock clutch systems were. so i also put in a adjustable master cylinder i'm running dot 3. so i bled the lines. ran a whole bottle of dot 3 through it using the pump and open method. it got better. this weekend i went out and played around and it started doing the same thing. i can usually get it into gear pretty quick but it just seems like it don't wanna go in?

now the fluid isn't dark but i guess it still could be getting hot so i ask should i use a different fluid and what are the ups and downs of different fluid.

or should i just adjust my pedal and see if that helps? i like where it is now in engages right in the middle but i guess i could move it up and try that...

or could there be something wrong in my tranny that won't allow it to go into gear right away sometimes?
i really think its clutch related seeing i notice it more after i've done a pull or two?

any help is appreciated thanks

jeremy
Old 09-15-2008, 01:24 PM
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It sounds like a fluid issue since it happens when it is getting hot, but you need to figure out why it is happening (is the clutch slipping, etc). You could also be having a problem with the clutch not disengaging at upper RPMs, and that could be a whole host of different things.

Have you done the clutch disengagement test yet? If not, put your car in first gear, leave the pedal to the floor, and start revving the engine. If at ANY time it moves, the clutch is not fully disengaging. I just went through this whole ordeal, and am still waiting on my Tick Performance master cylinder to try and fix it (I need to move more fluid through the system with my current clutch to get it to fully disengage).

As for fluid type, I've used everything from standard DOT 3 to Ate Super Blue and now to Castrol SRF. The SRF has worked great for me (albeit pricey), but the issue still remains that my clutch isn't fully disengaging, and that is after pressure bleeding it with a bleeder extension (so there shouldn't be any air bubbles in the system).

Does that help? There are a lot of different things that could be causing this, including the fluid itself. If all is working well, any DOT 3 fluid should be sufficient for that system, although once it becomes contaminated, its wet boiling point goes way down.
Old 09-15-2008, 03:38 PM
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With your longtubes, do you still have that aluminum cover that shields the hydraulic line? If not odds are your fluid is getting too hot. That has been a problem for some in the past.
Old 09-15-2008, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Hugger Z
With your longtubes, do you still have that aluminum cover that shields the hydraulic line? If not odds are your fluid is getting too hot. That has been a problem for some in the past.
the line is also heat wrapped
Old 09-16-2008, 07:04 PM
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I'm starting to doubt the necessity of heat wrap...the way my line is routed, it can't be getting much radiant heat from the exhaust.
Old 09-17-2008, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
I'm starting to doubt the necessity of heat wrap...the way my line is routed, it can't be getting much radiant heat from the exhaust.
yeah i think that stuff is overrated. does not cut the job! on any application i've used it on

i know it does get warm but there is no other way i can route it. is there any other fluid these cars can use and does a better job and lasts longer?
Old 09-17-2008, 01:24 PM
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I bought Wilwood High Temp brake fluid off Summit.

Rated to 600* or so I believe

thats ~200* higher than your "average" fluid
Old 09-17-2008, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nobird8991
yeah i think that stuff is overrated. does not cut the job! on any application i've used it on

i know it does get warm but there is no other way i can route it. is there any other fluid these cars can use and does a better job and lasts longer?
Yeah...Castrol SRF. 590*F Dry boiling point, 518*F wet boiling point. But you get to pay $75/liter.
Old 09-17-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
I bought Wilwood High Temp brake fluid off Summit.

Rated to 600* or so I believe

thats ~200* higher than your "average" fluid
so how much is this stuff

Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Yeah...Castrol SRF. 590*F Dry boiling point, 518*F wet boiling point. But you get to pay $75/liter.
Old 09-17-2008, 08:23 PM
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Yeah...tell me about it...I've gone through 2 bottles of it so far, and will go through another when my new Tick Performance master cylinder shows up. It has worked that well for me...no more weird pedal after driving it hard.
Old 09-17-2008, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nobird8991
so how much is this stuff


less than $20 a bottle
Old 09-17-2008, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Yeah...tell me about it...I've gone through 2 bottles of it so far, and will go through another when my new Tick Performance master cylinder shows up. It has worked that well for me...no more weird pedal after driving it hard.
getting rid of my stock clutch and upgrading to something better took care of that problem i am SO HAPPY i don't have to deal with that stupid spongy pedal! now if i am just get a consistent pedal things would be great. that and a good rear end lol



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