my clutch pedal went from no pressure to rock hard
#1
my clutch pedal went from no pressure to rock hard
Can anyone tell me what the problem may be with my hydrolics. I was having a problem with the clutch sticking to the floor at first then i SWAPPED TO A tick performance master and after a run in the freeway at WOT I was experiencing a very hard pedal. I was bearly able to get it into gear. Me and Javier took the tranny out b/c I thought the slave may be shot but it looks to be in great shape. anyhow I am waiting for a remote bleeder line in order to start the install of a new slave then I will bleed the system good and see how it goes. I suspect that the connection from the master to the slave may have been bad giving me the symptoms I just described above (hard pedal)
if anyone have any recomendations I am all ears.
What causes the pedal to be ROCK hard?
do you think the pressure plate on the clutch is no good?
I have an LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel on my setup.
thanks in advance.
if anyone have any recomendations I am all ears.
What causes the pedal to be ROCK hard?
do you think the pressure plate on the clutch is no good?
I have an LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel on my setup.
thanks in advance.
#2
I'd go with master disconnected from slave for a possibility. Usually if fluid can't be moved, it'll be rock hard.
clutch failure is the other possibility, but very rare for it to exert that much force that the slave can't push in somewhat.
clutch failure is the other possibility, but very rare for it to exert that much force that the slave can't push in somewhat.
#4
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
When you say rock hard, do you mean you could not press the pedal at all? If the line became dissconected then it would not press at all, and if you exerted enough force you'd either bend the connecting rod, or blowout the seals or even bust something.
Did you adjust the rods length starting with its shortest point and gradually work your way out until you had a satisfactory release? If so you should be fine. However, if you just adjusted the rod to match the stock cylinder or you made it longer just to position the pedal higher you may have over extended the pp fingers and did damage to the pp itself. Its even possible that the pp fingers became inverted which would no longer allow the tob/slave to press them any farther. That could possibly create the rock hard pedal you're experiencing.
Did you adjust the rods length starting with its shortest point and gradually work your way out until you had a satisfactory release? If so you should be fine. However, if you just adjusted the rod to match the stock cylinder or you made it longer just to position the pedal higher you may have over extended the pp fingers and did damage to the pp itself. Its even possible that the pp fingers became inverted which would no longer allow the tob/slave to press them any farther. That could possibly create the rock hard pedal you're experiencing.
#5
Jonathan, I did adjusted the MC from the lowet point until I was able to engage the gears with the car running, I did not take into consideration the location of the stock master cylinder.
I think that the problem was the poor connection from the MC to the SC, I was able to take the tranny out and visualized the PP fingers and they look fine, they are not inverted. I am just waiting for a remote bleeder line and will put everything back together and make sure that the connection is right then I will test it out again, if in case I did inverted the fingers on the PP, what are my options? a new clutch? or can I get that PP fixed?
thanks for the input.
I think that the problem was the poor connection from the MC to the SC, I was able to take the tranny out and visualized the PP fingers and they look fine, they are not inverted. I am just waiting for a remote bleeder line and will put everything back together and make sure that the connection is right then I will test it out again, if in case I did inverted the fingers on the PP, what are my options? a new clutch? or can I get that PP fixed?
thanks for the input.
#6
The pedal was not completely unable to be depressed, It was just very very hard leading me to believe that the connection in the quick-connect was not optimal. I have a new slave waiting to be installed this week. I will update the thread as I figure it out. thanks
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
With the connection...I would think it could only be one of two conditions. One is it was connected, or two its not. If in between...you'd be seeing fluid. So its either not connected, or it is connected and the problem is elsewhere. If the connection was non-existent, you wouldnt be able to push the pedal at all...assuming no air in the system. If it was a "poor" connection, fluid would be coming out of it at some point.
Are you getting fluid leakage? I dont think you mentioned that.
Im going to go on a limb and say you have to bleed it. When I first installed my slave and master cylinder on my swap car this time, it had about 1/3 of a mushy pedal, then it got VERY hard. I didnt think it was air, but I bled it and it started working good. This was after I already bled it some... I was totally convinced something was broken with the slave.
So when you think you've bled enough, do atleast twice that amount of bleeding haha.
J.
Are you getting fluid leakage? I dont think you mentioned that.
Im going to go on a limb and say you have to bleed it. When I first installed my slave and master cylinder on my swap car this time, it had about 1/3 of a mushy pedal, then it got VERY hard. I didnt think it was air, but I bled it and it started working good. This was after I already bled it some... I was totally convinced something was broken with the slave.
So when you think you've bled enough, do atleast twice that amount of bleeding haha.
J.
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#9
OK here is an update. I replaced the slave with a new unit and bled the system good through the remote bleeder. I went for a drive and the pedal feel was ok at first until a high RPM drive.
I then took it home and connected the MityVac to the reservoir and a bunch of bubbles start comming out. It continued for about an hour before I had to go to work. I dont know if the plastic hose connecting the master to the reservoir has a pin hole allowing some air to get in the system. I am going to be replacing the hose with some fuel hose and bleed the system again and see what happens then.
I then took it home and connected the MityVac to the reservoir and a bunch of bubbles start comming out. It continued for about an hour before I had to go to work. I dont know if the plastic hose connecting the master to the reservoir has a pin hole allowing some air to get in the system. I am going to be replacing the hose with some fuel hose and bleed the system again and see what happens then.
#10
another update,
First I like to thank Jason at TDP for helping me look over the car hydraulic system.
Jason and I thought that the master cylinder may have an internal leak. I called Tick and they are going to take care of me. We went over everything and it seems that the master was the only thing that could cause this, The weird thing is that it works fine under normal driving but as soon as I get on it, the pedal starts to get this hard feel to it, it does not keep the same preasure throughout the RPM range.
Thanks for the great customer service Tick Performance!!!!!!! The unit itself looks like it is up to the task, I'll update this after I get things buttoned up.
First I like to thank Jason at TDP for helping me look over the car hydraulic system.
Jason and I thought that the master cylinder may have an internal leak. I called Tick and they are going to take care of me. We went over everything and it seems that the master was the only thing that could cause this, The weird thing is that it works fine under normal driving but as soon as I get on it, the pedal starts to get this hard feel to it, it does not keep the same preasure throughout the RPM range.
Thanks for the great customer service Tick Performance!!!!!!! The unit itself looks like it is up to the task, I'll update this after I get things buttoned up.