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Old 04-07-2010, 06:56 PM
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Default Quick and easy question

When installing new plug wires, do you need to place the stock spring things on the plugs on your new wires? They are MSD's if that makes any difference.
Old 04-07-2010, 07:44 PM
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I didn't. Not sure if you're supposed to or not. But I decided not to.
Old 04-07-2010, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BeavermanA
When installing new plug wires, do you need to place the stock spring things on the plugs on your new wires?
They come ready out of the box. Old wires off new wires on.
Old 04-07-2010, 09:26 PM
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I did, just to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside and feel like my wires were protected...

Then I found out the spark was arcing to the metal shields, so I bought a set of

http://www.designengineering.com/cat.../protect-boots

Now I feel even more toasty inside. No more arc!
Old 04-07-2010, 09:50 PM
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Thanks for the advice, didn't use them. Car newb here, but I'm trying to learn how to do everything I can by myself. So I'm sure I'll be asking more dumb questions soon.

Did get 6 of the 8 spark plugs and wires replaced before the sun went down on me today, last two will be the back passenger side .
Old 04-07-2010, 11:23 PM
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I'd leave them off when it comes to aftermarket wires with a different boot design.

I always like to start with #6 & #8 (the two on the back passenger side), I like to get the hardest part over first.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:30 PM
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I've... never seen what you guys are talking about. So, no, I don't put them on.

I do use dielectric grease, though. Makes things a bit easier.

Wait. Are you guys talking about those tin heat shield things? I can't remember if I kept mine or not.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpe
Wait. Are you guys talking about those tin heat shield things? I can't remember if I kept mine or not.
That's it!

Sometimes the MSDs will have arcing issues (as mentioned above) with those shields. They just weren't designed to work with the MSD style/size boots.

Mine are still on, but that's because both currently have stock wires.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I'd leave them off when it comes to aftermarket wires with a different boot design.

I always like to start with #6 & #8 (the two on the back passenger side), I like to get the hardest part over first.
Haha, I would but I've never done this before, or any other work on an engine either really. Most complicated thing I've done is install my slp lid lol. Didn't want to get frustrated early.

For some reason also all the plug boots on the pass. side are ridiculously hard to pull out. Heck I broke the cable on the #2 wire trying to get it off. I yanked on #6 and it was very hard as well, but it was too dark to continue at that point. Haven't even touched #8.

Another question. How can you tell if the spark plug or wire isn't in right? Will it put on an ses light? I test drove the car for a couple miles and everything seemed normal, but I don't really know what to look for.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BeavermanA
Another question. How can you tell if the spark plug or wire isn't in right? Will it put on an ses light? I test drove the car for a couple miles and everything seemed normal, but I don't really know what to look for.
You mean if you got the wires fully seated on the plugs that you changed so far?

If the plug wire isn't making contact with the plug, you'll have a nasty misfire that you'll feel, and probably see a flashing SES light. Then, when you scan for codes you'll probably see a P0300 (random multiple misfire) and a P030x (x= whatever cylinder the misfire is on, 1-8).
Old 04-07-2010, 11:50 PM
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If it is missing, that would be an indicator.

Basically, you just have to know... For the plugs, make sure they are snug. Not torqued by the almighty hand of Thor, but snug.

For the wires, you push them on until you hear a "click". One click for wire-plug, and two clicks for wire-coil pack.
Old 04-07-2010, 11:57 PM
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Alright cool, should be good then. Not too concerned about the wires, but I don't have a torque wrench for the spark plugs. Just did them hand tight, then a little more with the socket wrench till I couldn't turn it backwards by hand anymore.
Old 04-08-2010, 01:12 AM
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I think it's 15-ft/lbs for spark plugs on these heads. So basically about the same as the oil drain plug. I've never used a torque wrench for spark plugs, not even sure how the hell you'd get one in there.
Old 04-08-2010, 01:20 AM
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same thing i say how would you get one in ther??? i guess that number is for when the engine is out the car lol
Old 04-08-2010, 01:22 AM
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and one question does that spark really arcs to the metal shield like 4WOFURY said
Old 04-08-2010, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 9Green-Z8
and one question does that spark really arcs to the metal shield like 4WOFURY said
Yes, I've heard of that happening when used with MSD wires. This is not a concern with stock or factory replacement wires though. MSD uses a different boot style/lenght that is not meant to work with those metal shields.
Old 04-08-2010, 10:05 PM
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Heh, I could make a vid. It's a pretty light show.... to do so though, I'd need a $5 donation.. It's a bitch to take off the wires and put them back on twice...
Old 04-08-2010, 10:53 PM
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Sweet, got all 8 plugs and wires done. That #8 was quite a bitch, mostly just getting the socket + wrench on there. It was way too tight to get off with my little wrench, had to struggle to get a full size 1/2 inch wrench with 3/8 adapter in there to get enough leverage.

And fuq me, I bought all the tools to do this, pretty much every tool I needed was in my company truck in the ChannelLock 100 something socket and wrench set, even the 5/8 spark plug socket, which I didn't notice till I had to grab it to figure out how to get to the #8 plug.
Old 04-09-2010, 02:26 AM
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Good job man. Doesn't it feel good, knowing that you did that all by yourself and probably saved yourself $500 or more from a stealership or some dumb shop?




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