cam only LS series motors
06-05-2010, 06:05 AM
#2
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No secret they just make a lot more HP with just a cam most cars can run mid to low 11's or sometimes in the 10's with weight reduction.With cam only nothing else they are saying the rest of the motor is stock meaning stock heads,bottom end ect.Yes most LS cams are streetable unless u go to big but as long as u have a good tuner to tune your cars they are very streetable.
06-05-2010, 10:08 AM
#3
No secret they just make a lot more HP with just a cam most cars can run mid to low 11's or sometimes in the 10's with weight reduction.With cam only nothing else they are saying the rest of the motor is stock meaning stock heads,bottom end ect.Yes most LS cams are streetable unless u go to big but as long as u have a good tuner to tune your cars they are very streetable.
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06-05-2010, 02:33 PM
#8
READ THE STICKIES!!!! There is SOOOO much information all over the place in stickies and through searches if you guys would read. You guys need to get a BASIC understanding first and then come in with your more advanced questions. READ READ READ!
As far as a cam with no converter. A stall should be put in before a cam, period. You will get WAY more ET reduction with a converter than a cam. A cam without a stall is just plain stupid. Your car will sound mean but still be slow. Put a converter without a cam, it will sound stock but will be pretty quick.
STALL before CAM!!!
IMO a stall should be the FIRST mod to an A4. A good friend of mine is listening to what I tell him with his 00 Z he just bought.
He put his 3800 Vig converter in about two weeks ago. Right after that he got a lid/ported TB. Next will be exhaust and then intake. After that start saving up for a cam around 228/230 .600 113 lsa.. Then heads.... Etc etc etc.
As far as a cam with no converter. A stall should be put in before a cam, period. You will get WAY more ET reduction with a converter than a cam. A cam without a stall is just plain stupid. Your car will sound mean but still be slow. Put a converter without a cam, it will sound stock but will be pretty quick.
STALL before CAM!!!
IMO a stall should be the FIRST mod to an A4. A good friend of mine is listening to what I tell him with his 00 Z he just bought.
He put his 3800 Vig converter in about two weeks ago. Right after that he got a lid/ported TB. Next will be exhaust and then intake. After that start saving up for a cam around 228/230 .600 113 lsa.. Then heads.... Etc etc etc.
06-05-2010, 02:45 PM
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READ THE STICKIES!!!! There is SOOOO much information all over the place in stickies and through searches if you guys would read. You guys need to get a BASIC understanding first and then come in with your more advanced questions. READ READ READ!
As far as a cam with no converter. A stall should be put in before a cam, period. You will get WAY more ET reduction with a converter than a cam. A cam without a stall is just plain stupid. Your car will sound mean but still be slow. Put a converter without a cam, it will sound stock but will be pretty quick.
STALL before CAM!!!
IMO a stall should be the FIRST mod to an A4. A good friend of mine is listening to what I tell him with his 00 Z he just bought.
He put his 3800 Vig converter in about two weeks ago. Right after that he got a lid/ported TB. Next will be exhaust and then intake. After that start saving up for a cam around 228/230 .600 113 lsa.. Then heads.... Etc etc etc.
As far as a cam with no converter. A stall should be put in before a cam, period. You will get WAY more ET reduction with a converter than a cam. A cam without a stall is just plain stupid. Your car will sound mean but still be slow. Put a converter without a cam, it will sound stock but will be pretty quick.
STALL before CAM!!!
IMO a stall should be the FIRST mod to an A4. A good friend of mine is listening to what I tell him with his 00 Z he just bought.
He put his 3800 Vig converter in about two weeks ago. Right after that he got a lid/ported TB. Next will be exhaust and then intake. After that start saving up for a cam around 228/230 .600 113 lsa.. Then heads.... Etc etc etc.
06-05-2010, 03:15 PM
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I will concur with this guy. Especially the stickies. Anyway, I did it the other way around and did a cam first. My car is an A4. With the 2.73 gears in it, it was slower than when it was stock. My cam was a .224 .224 .581 on a 112 LSA. I just put in 3.73's and it is a lot better. But I knew this year I was swapping over to a 6 speed. So I felt no need to waste money on a converter. Be honest with yourself. If you are going to stay auto, get a stall. If you have the means and really are planning a 6 speed swap, then do that. But if you put a cam in a basically stock motor with a stock converter and stock gears, you'll kick yourself in the ***. Just my $.02.
06-05-2010, 04:35 PM
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2 questions: 1) Where did you get your rears rims and what are they? Love 'em. 2) 224 cam - is there a specific make or model? I don't want too small a cam but def not too big where I need to change things. Thanks!
06-05-2010, 04:40 PM
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I will concur with this guy. Especially the stickies. Anyway, I did it the other way around and did a cam first. My car is an A4. With the 2.73 gears in it, it was slower than when it was stock. My cam was a .224 .224 .581 on a 112 LSA. I just put in 3.73's and it is a lot better. But I knew this year I was swapping over to a 6 speed. So I felt no need to waste money on a converter. Be honest with yourself. If you are going to stay auto, get a stall. If you have the means and really are planning a 6 speed swap, then do that. But if you put a cam in a basically stock motor with a stock converter and stock gears, you'll kick yourself in the ***. Just my $.02.
06-05-2010, 06:48 PM
#14
With two quality converters the difference between a 4000 and a 3200 is around 150-200RPMs difference while under normal pick ups. Once locked up (usually set around 40-45mph) they act the same as a stock converter. Once you smash the "go" pedal is where the HUGE difference is.
You can make 400Rwhp easily with a 224 cam, even with an A4. You guys need to stop worrying so much about what cam you chose and more about converter/heads/suspension/etc. You just need to pick a cam that works with the rest of your mods and not mods that work with your cam. The cam means very little in a setup in most cases. Hell, the first Ls1 in the 10s was a mid 22X duration cam with a low lift.
Again, READ READ READ you guys. Hell, when I first started trying to find out how I wanted to build my first Ls1 I probably spent 40+ STRAIGHT hours sitting and reading thread after thread after thread and still had VERY little idea what I wanted to end up with and MANY MANY questions. I still have a **** TON of questions all the time. My first build took me to 7.2s@96mph with low 1.6 60' times.. That was spinning (lifted tires about 6" and then unloaded which caused spinning), stock suspension... Noob mistake! Also didn't have a tune on the car for the heads and was running in 2000+DA. Car was an easy 6.7-6.8 car with suspension/tune. But now with my current car I'm running a MUCH smaller cam, no where near as good intake, etc etc etc and it is FULL weight and I'm running 7.2s@94mph w/ high 1.4s/low 1.5s (depending on weather). It is ALL in the complete setup, not just 1-2 mods.
I just ordered my ported 102mm intake/95mm TB and tweaked the suspension a bit.. Hopefully I will be cutting consistent 1.4Xs and in the 6.XXs @ 96mph or so. ALL IN THE COMPLETE SETUP! READ READ READ
Hopefully you guys are reading my posts and will go read some, probably not though.
06-05-2010, 09:22 PM
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If you have to keep budget in mind in your build... If you have 323s, keep them they will work great with an A4... There are bolt on cars in the mid 7s with those gears. 273s I would upgrade to either 323 or 342s because the 3rd gear lag is terrible. A4s don't respond like M6s do to gear swaps. The gains are normally minimal to non existent. The SOTP is a GREAT difference though.
Why not get a 4k? A 224-226 cam could make a car less street friendly than a 4000 converter.
With two quality converters the difference between a 4000 and a 3200 is around 150-200RPMs difference while under normal pick ups. Once locked up (usually set around 40-45mph) they act the same as a stock converter. Once you smash the "go" pedal is where the HUGE difference is.
You can make 400Rwhp easily with a 224 cam, even with an A4. You guys need to stop worrying so much about what cam you chose and more about converter/heads/suspension/etc. You just need to pick a cam that works with the rest of your mods and not mods that work with your cam. The cam means very little in a setup in most cases. Hell, the first Ls1 in the 10s was a mid 22X duration cam with a low lift.
Any cam bigger than a 226ish/226ish .588 114 is going to be more than enough for any DD or weekend warrior. For a full out race application (not what 90% of the people are looking afford or what to spend on this board) you might want to go bigger. You just have to know what other mods to match with your cam to make the entire setup work. The rest of the setup is just as important if not more than the cam selection.
It all depends on your tuner. Most average cams can idle around 750RPMs with a decent tune on it. The larger cams sometimes have to move up to around 900RPMs. All depends on the tune.
Again, READ READ READ you guys. Hell, when I first started trying to find out how I wanted to build my first Ls1 I probably spent 40+ STRAIGHT hours sitting and reading thread after thread after thread and still had VERY little idea what I wanted to end up with and MANY MANY questions. I still have a **** TON of questions all the time. My first build took me to 7.2s@96mph with low 1.6 60' times.. That was spinning (lifted tires about 6" and then unloaded which caused spinning), stock suspension... Noob mistake! Also didn't have a tune on the car for the heads and was running in 2000+DA. Car was an easy 6.7-6.8 car with suspension/tune. But now with my current car I'm running a MUCH smaller cam, no where near as good intake, etc etc etc and it is FULL weight and I'm running 7.2s@94mph w/ high 1.4s/low 1.5s (depending on weather). It is ALL in the complete setup, not just 1-2 mods.
I just ordered my ported 102mm intake/95mm TB and tweaked the suspension a bit.. Hopefully I will be cutting consistent 1.4Xs and in the 6.XXs @ 96mph or so. ALL IN THE COMPLETE SETUP! READ READ READ
Hopefully you guys are reading my posts and will go read some, probably not though.
Why not get a 4k? A 224-226 cam could make a car less street friendly than a 4000 converter.
With two quality converters the difference between a 4000 and a 3200 is around 150-200RPMs difference while under normal pick ups. Once locked up (usually set around 40-45mph) they act the same as a stock converter. Once you smash the "go" pedal is where the HUGE difference is.
You can make 400Rwhp easily with a 224 cam, even with an A4. You guys need to stop worrying so much about what cam you chose and more about converter/heads/suspension/etc. You just need to pick a cam that works with the rest of your mods and not mods that work with your cam. The cam means very little in a setup in most cases. Hell, the first Ls1 in the 10s was a mid 22X duration cam with a low lift.
Any cam bigger than a 226ish/226ish .588 114 is going to be more than enough for any DD or weekend warrior. For a full out race application (not what 90% of the people are looking afford or what to spend on this board) you might want to go bigger. You just have to know what other mods to match with your cam to make the entire setup work. The rest of the setup is just as important if not more than the cam selection.
It all depends on your tuner. Most average cams can idle around 750RPMs with a decent tune on it. The larger cams sometimes have to move up to around 900RPMs. All depends on the tune.
Again, READ READ READ you guys. Hell, when I first started trying to find out how I wanted to build my first Ls1 I probably spent 40+ STRAIGHT hours sitting and reading thread after thread after thread and still had VERY little idea what I wanted to end up with and MANY MANY questions. I still have a **** TON of questions all the time. My first build took me to 7.2s@96mph with low 1.6 60' times.. That was spinning (lifted tires about 6" and then unloaded which caused spinning), stock suspension... Noob mistake! Also didn't have a tune on the car for the heads and was running in 2000+DA. Car was an easy 6.7-6.8 car with suspension/tune. But now with my current car I'm running a MUCH smaller cam, no where near as good intake, etc etc etc and it is FULL weight and I'm running 7.2s@94mph w/ high 1.4s/low 1.5s (depending on weather). It is ALL in the complete setup, not just 1-2 mods.
I just ordered my ported 102mm intake/95mm TB and tweaked the suspension a bit.. Hopefully I will be cutting consistent 1.4Xs and in the 6.XXs @ 96mph or so. ALL IN THE COMPLETE SETUP! READ READ READ
Hopefully you guys are reading my posts and will go read some, probably not though.
I read alot, too much sometimes and you get alot of 50/50 with setups. I currently have stock 273 and was gonna get 373's with some wider tires out back. Never heard of a 3rd gear lag?? A stall is def in the mods just not yet... I would go possibly 3200 but not bigger since it is a DD. Thanks for advice!
06-05-2010, 11:20 PM
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Well, as far as the idle goes, the 98 computers are pretty screwy. Mine is at least. It wouldn't idle worth a **** at first. Then he set the idle up to 900. Worked great for a while. Then for no reason whatsoever, started stalling out when I put it in drive. We are going to work on it a bit more when I take it back to have it retuned for the T56. I imagine just going to a manual will help out a lot without having the converter shock the system when put in drive. Will report back in about 3 weeks!!!
06-06-2010, 12:50 AM
#18
I read alot, too much sometimes and you get alot of 50/50 with setups. I currently have stock 273 and was gonna get 373's with some wider tires out back. Never heard of a 3rd gear lag?? A stall is def in the mods just not yet... I would go possibly 3200 but not bigger since it is a DD. Thanks for advice!
Never heard of 3rd gear lag!? Ever hit 95mph in your car? Ever noticed it falls FLAT on its face at 95 when it shifts into 3rd?
I was racing my buddies BONE stock 273 geared 00 Z against another friends 00 C5 M6 with catback and intake... I got him by 1/2 a car up to 95... The SECOND the car shifted to third he started pulling and put around 3 on us when we let off at around 120. This is one instance where I have seen 273 cars running and 3rd gear lag hits and the car comes around them or widens the gap it has already. 323s or 342s will take care of this.
As for the stall, I have already stated what to do with it. 3200 is WAY to small. I would go NO smaller than a 3600 on a NA car, whether stock or H/C. LsX engines LOOOOVE big converters. I doubt if you get a 3200 you will be satisfied, especially if you ride in a large stalled car. You will be even more pissed off when you find out there is minimal to no difference between a 3200 and a 4000 except when you go WOT.
Well, as far as the idle goes, the 98 computers are pretty screwy. Mine is at least. It wouldn't idle worth a **** at first. Then he set the idle up to 900. Worked great for a while. Then for no reason whatsoever, started stalling out when I put it in drive. We are going to work on it a bit more when I take it back to have it retuned for the T56. I imagine just going to a manual will help out a lot without having the converter shock the system when put in drive. Will report back in about 3 weeks!!!
06-06-2010, 07:15 AM
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[QUOTE=lemons12;13429552]If you are on a budget just get a stock M6 rear, they have the 342s... Will be much cheaper and the same thing ET wise.
Never heard of 3rd gear lag!? Ever hit 95mph in your car? Ever noticed it falls FLAT on its face at 95 when it shifts into 3rd?
I was racing my buddies BONE stock 273 geared 00 Z against another friends 00 C5 M6 with catback and intake... I got him by 1/2 a car up to 95... The SECOND the car shifted to third he started pulling and put around 3 on us when we let off at around 120. This is one instance where I have seen 273 cars running and 3rd gear lag hits and the car comes around them or widens the gap it has already. 323s or 342s will take care of this.
As for the stall, I have already stated what to do with it. 3200 is WAY to small. I would go NO smaller than a 3600 on a NA car, whether stock or H/C. LsX engines LOOOOVE big converters. I doubt if you get a 3200 you will be satisfied, especially if you ride in a large stalled car. You will be even more pissed off when you find out there is minimal to no difference between a 3200 and a 4000 except when you go WOT.
hmm... stock M6 rear huh? I wouldn't mind 3:42's... so if I got a 3600 stall how could I take off in town without chirping tires? (I am a noob to stalls)
Never heard of 3rd gear lag!? Ever hit 95mph in your car? Ever noticed it falls FLAT on its face at 95 when it shifts into 3rd?
I was racing my buddies BONE stock 273 geared 00 Z against another friends 00 C5 M6 with catback and intake... I got him by 1/2 a car up to 95... The SECOND the car shifted to third he started pulling and put around 3 on us when we let off at around 120. This is one instance where I have seen 273 cars running and 3rd gear lag hits and the car comes around them or widens the gap it has already. 323s or 342s will take care of this.
As for the stall, I have already stated what to do with it. 3200 is WAY to small. I would go NO smaller than a 3600 on a NA car, whether stock or H/C. LsX engines LOOOOVE big converters. I doubt if you get a 3200 you will be satisfied, especially if you ride in a large stalled car. You will be even more pissed off when you find out there is minimal to no difference between a 3200 and a 4000 except when you go WOT.
hmm... stock M6 rear huh? I wouldn't mind 3:42's... so if I got a 3600 stall how could I take off in town without chirping tires? (I am a noob to stalls)
06-06-2010, 08:05 AM
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Im running the mods in my sig and the car could most definately be daily driven. I have a vehicle for work that is provided for me, so the bird only gets driven once a week at best. Im still running the stock rear and the stock clutch. The rear has held up nicely thus far, admittedly I do not beat up on it AND I have street tires on it. The clutch recently began to slip when I try to downshift and punch it, but beyond that my cam only car is awesome!