excessive oil consumption 08 silverado
05-21-2015, 08:45 AM
#1
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excessive oil consumption 08 silverado I have heard about this using some oil...but using 3+qts in less than 2000 miles ?
No oil leaks, no visible smoke in the morning or day out the tail pipe, it also looks clean and no oil residue.
It currently has 155k .spark plugs look clean too.
Any ideas? Tia.
No oil leaks, no visible smoke in the morning or day out the tail pipe, it also looks clean and no oil residue.
It currently has 155k .spark plugs look clean too.
Any ideas? Tia.
05-21-2015, 10:45 AM
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Go-to fix is an oil catch can for oil consumption. But I suspect you may have a bigger issue with that much consumption. And it's odd that the plugs are clean. Theres no oil on them? Does it smoke at full throttle?
05-21-2015, 03:01 PM
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Pcv components seems to be ok, no excessive oil behind the throttle body.
Plugs are not oily or have any carbon build up. .they just look ashy.there is some smoke at a full throttle pass, but it looks kinda brownish
Plugs are not oily or have any carbon build up. .they just look ashy.there is some smoke at a full throttle pass, but it looks kinda brownish
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05-22-2015, 11:33 AM
#8
gen 4 5.3s have extreme issues with burning oil. most of them get caught under warranty. even some of the 6.0s and 6.2s have issues. cam bearing issues as well, but not as common as oil consumption.
step one is replacing the driver side valvecover with an updated design and installing a deflector shield on the AFM relief valve in the oil pan.
if that doesnt fix it, step two:
replace pistons and rings
what year/miles? 2011 and prior are the worst.
step one is replacing the driver side valvecover with an updated design and installing a deflector shield on the AFM relief valve in the oil pan.
if that doesnt fix it, step two:
replace pistons and rings
what year/miles? 2011 and prior are the worst.
05-23-2015, 10:14 PM
#10
Any valve train noise when it is first started up, or even when it is warmed up?
I've seen a few reports of people using some engine flush on the bottom end and that frees up the rings, if that's where it is coming from. Watched a video of one guy who did that and he warned that the stuff says to not drive the vehicle at all, don't go above idle, follow the directions on the can to a T, drain it out, refill with fresh oil, take it for a spin, drain and fill again to get all the flush stuff out, etc... Not sure if it is worth going through all that or not.
Could also be losing oil through the PCV if there is something wrong with that.
I've seen a few reports of people using some engine flush on the bottom end and that frees up the rings, if that's where it is coming from. Watched a video of one guy who did that and he warned that the stuff says to not drive the vehicle at all, don't go above idle, follow the directions on the can to a T, drain it out, refill with fresh oil, take it for a spin, drain and fill again to get all the flush stuff out, etc... Not sure if it is worth going through all that or not.
Could also be losing oil through the PCV if there is something wrong with that.
05-23-2015, 10:34 PM
#11
step one is replacing the driver side valvecover with an updated design and installing a deflector shield on the AFM relief valve in the oil pan.
if that doesnt fix it, step two:
replace pistons and rings
I 2nd this
Drivers rocker cover and afm shield
And decarbon the top end to try to free up the rings
Fixes about 1 out of 10
The others
Ring stay stuck to the pistons
I have done probably 25 set of piston and rings for this concern
If it was mine has 150 k. I would say **** it oils creeper than pistons
if that doesnt fix it, step two:
replace pistons and rings
I 2nd this
Drivers rocker cover and afm shield
And decarbon the top end to try to free up the rings
Fixes about 1 out of 10
The others
Ring stay stuck to the pistons
I have done probably 25 set of piston and rings for this concern
If it was mine has 150 k. I would say **** it oils creeper than pistons