slow_FNG

iTrader: (1)

Hello all,

First off, I'll begin by saying about a year ago I purchased a very clean 99 SS SLP car that was basically stock. It had a slightly leaky rear main and needed a master cylinder. Very long story short, it also got long tubes and an LS7 clutch. All put together, rear main started leaking again. I could get into depths on other stuff, but it basically completely demotivated me.

I've gone back and forth on selling/keeping. I drove it once this month. I've decided that since the fastest thing I've ever had ran high 13's, I'm tired of giving up on builds. So, I'd love some suggestions and guidance.

Goals:
Run 10's while still being able to pass tech. I want to do it right. Not do a few test hits and then crank one and get booted (its a vert car)
It does not need to be DD worthy. I have a truck for that. I know a vert car isn't ideal for this, but its what I got.

I guess my main questions are, where do I start? I'm leaning towards forced induction. I like the growth potential with F/I and am addicted to spool (reason why my diesel gets single digit MPGs....I'm addicted to the noise lol)

I know I'll need a rear end. I know I'll need a clutch. I know I'll need suspension (its got the crummy SLP bilstein stuff)

Motor/trans are 153K mile units, BUT, it was stock, unmolested until my purchase at 140K-sih.

I think ultimately, Im shooting for a mid 11-sec build, and then I'll hone in from there

any and all suggestions and guidance is much appreciated. Thanks!

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

get that leak taken care of first.

1998 t/a

iTrader: (2)

I'm kind of in the same boat you are...I'm leaning towards just buying an 06+ Z06 and selling or keeping my T/A...anyway...Do all of the suspension and rear mods you suggested but to get the car into the 10 second range I would consider doing an LQ4/9 build the cast iron block with forged internals will let you do a good amount of boost without blowing the whole thing up. 155k miles is up there and I personally wouldn't feel comfortable dropping a supercharger or turbo with all the bells and whistles on it and launch myself into 10 seconds.

slow_FNG

iTrader: (1)

Thats my thing, I'm not going to do all that work just for a gasket. I'm going to throw stuff at it too.

Ordered heads, cam next. May just pull the whole motor and do all sensors and gaskets and everything at the same time

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

thats a good plan.

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Like said fix the leak first, if you can drive a full bolt on car will get you in the upper 11's and if the car is setup right(weight reduction,susp,tires) for the track heads and cam will get you in the 10's. I wouldn't even concern myself w/ FI until you reach your goals because that's a whole nother expensive ball game. Guys have hit these numbers with less but its a good estimate of what these cars are capable of. Though if drag racing is your thing a stalled auto would be more consistent and the added weight of the vert isn't going to help.


__________________

blackandgold

iTrader: (2)

If a leaky rear main makes you consider selling the car...maybe stay away from FI for now. IMO pulling the motor and freshening up the whole thing would be the way to go.

EdgarB

iTrader: (2)

may want to invest in a cage if you don't want to get kicked out of the track.

topless2002SS

Does anyone make a cage that will allow the top to still function? Sounds like a interesting build. gl

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

im sure someone can fabricate one but theyre probably available somewhere.

HappySalesman

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure there's some in the ws6store (at least) that are built for verts and do allow the top to function. Just have to ask some sponsors, or get in touch with Wolfe.