frey51

I plan to make all these mods...minus the 12 bolt by this time next year. Keep in mind I plan on doing this in the order that I list them, obviously with some parts being purchased and installed at the same time. What do you think about the list, any additions or alterations. All input is welcome and appreciated.

Black painted headlight mod
Berger panel mod (chrome camaro lettering and z28 emblem with red bowtie, on glossy black)
Borla XR1 - Borlamouth (maybe gmmg, dont know yet)
FLP Longtubes
LS1 Edit
BMR 1" Lowering Springs
Tokiko rear shock
Tokiko front shock
BMR Subframe Connectors, Boxed
BMR Panhard Rod, Adjustable w/ Poly Bushings
BMR Bolt-In Adjustable Torque Arm
BMR Lower Control Arms Boxed
BMR Tubular Front Upper & Lower A-Arms Package
BMR Front & Rear Swaybar Package
BMR Chrome Moly Strut Tower Brace
TR 230/224 cam kit
-Crane Cams 144832-16 Valve Springs
- Crane Cams 144661 Titanium Retainers
- Crane Cams 144460-16 Hardened Seats
- 11-VS-UV5001-EO Valve Stem Seals
- Thunder Racing Stock Length Pushrods (7.400)
- cam gaskets
LS1 Edit (Again)
Moser F-body 12 w/ 4:10

It is very possible that I get the cam earlier. It all depends on how I end up feeling about spending the moeny on the suspension. There is a slight budget here. I mean I dont have much money, and most if not all my extra cash this year is going to the camaro

Fry

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

The only thing that I really see.. is that LS1Edit should just stay at the bottom with the cam.. There's really no need to purchase it that early into your mods. Other than that. Make it look pretty.. Building the suspension and then building the motor to test that suspension setup..

Looks good to me..

frey51

well I would like to get the full potential from the headers and exhaust. It is my understanding that with a tune you get more gains on headers and exhaust than without the tune. Like I said this is just a guesstimate, and am open to suggestions.

Thanks, and I will definatly keep that in mind.

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

But why pay for 2 tunes? Waste of money..

frey51

well if you buy ls1edit you only pay for the dyno pull and tuning, at least thats how the shop closes to me does it. I can get ls1edit for 350 then its 100 for every hour of tuning. So I pay 450 for the first tune, givin that it will take 1 hour. Then after I put my cam in. I go pay for hopefully one more hour which is 100. Plus it will be several months before the cam goes in, so I think I midas well have the best performance.

Fry

DeepBlueZ

most shops will give u a free or discounted re-tune. the shop that tuned my car gave me 2 free re-tunes.

also i didnt see LCA relocation brackets on your list. they're absolutely essential if you lower your car or the suspension geometry will never be right for launching it anymore.

frey51

why is that?

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

If this is a street car....

frey51

Yup, it is a street car. Right now it is my daily driver, but will hopefully become the toy right before winter when I buy a beater. It will be a street/strip car.....just a fun money pit

DeepBlueZ

when you lower the car, the LCAs are at a slightly different angle. this messes up your pinion angle among other things and will probably cause wheelhop....you can help it with the adjustable torque arm, but relocating the LCAs is a good idea if you want to get everything dialed in right.

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

I would change out the Boxed SFC's w/ tubular. I did a lot of research on these things a few weeks ago before I bought mine, and the tubular ARE stronger, but it's not going to matter unless you pouring like 600+hp through your car, or doing major road racing. And since you're lowering your car, why bother with the hassle of hitting the SFC's all over town? Also, I would drop the 1st LS1 edit, and put the SFC's where it used to be. Also, most people are thrilled w/ their Bilstein's, so why the Tokikos?

blkZ28spt

Wait a minute, since when are tubular subframe connectors stronger than boxed? Am I missing something here?

frey51

not a fan of bilstien, plus the tokico's are cheaper. Also I havent heard the difference in strength with the boxed vs. tubular, but the reason I want the boxed sfc's is for ground clearance.

Fry

jaberwaki

your m6.
if you plan on running et streets or drags at the track the replace moser 12 bolt with moser 9" rear 4.11 gears
too many m6ers have broken 12bolts almost as fast as 10 bolts.
12 bolts are for autos.

if you want good et's then forget the lowering anything. it will hurt your times alot(even if you relocate your lca's) because your weight transfer will not happen the way it should. if you just want to look fast then by all meens lower the hell out of it.

madpwr1

iTrader: (3)

i think captUSA just had a typo, boxed are stronger than tubular.

and frey51 if you want more ground clearance you'd want to go with the tubular NOT the boxed.

btw if you're on a budget and want good et's ... lowering your car is not gonna help there

get LT headers, cam, 12 bolt, sub-frames, lca, tune, sticky tires and hit the track.

5POINT7

For real.

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Yep, sorry about that. Boxed are stronger than tubular.

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Also right. That's another thing I was trying to say. Thanks for the help madpwr1.