the spindoctor

i was just curious what the odds are the block and/or crank would still be good. a buddy of mine got in some high water yesterday, and said i could have the old engine if his insurance decides to replace it with a new one. i know at least a rod or two is screwed up since it won't crank even with the spark plugs removed. if anything, i'd just like it to use as a mock up engine for my little rx7.

2_wacko

iTrader: (2)

My car got hydrolocked about 2 years ago the block was toast. Thank god GM replaced the whole engine.

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

My cuz locked his up with I want to say a varam, but I think it was another make. Anyways it was one of those intakes that are notorious for it. The maker assured him it wouldn't and refused to believe it after the fact. The block should be fine, according to my reasoning the rods should give out before the block splits when introduced to those kind of pressures. The stock rods you can get those CHEAP why the hell would you want to risk those. I recall seeing a set for 75 bones recently over in the for sell section. That would be crazy fun in a rx7. lsx swapes are getting pretty popular in those rx's.

Oso SS

iTrader: (3)

it's not a gentle event when a motor hydrolocks. I've had 2 different roommates hydrolock their LS1 cars, and both motors had to be replaced. One fucked up the camshaft and the shortblock, the other just the rotating assembly but put a hole in the side of the block.

what generally happens is that the water goes into the motor, super cools and locks everything up. it stops... when you try to crank the motor over again is when **** breaks.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

let your buddyknow that if he is pulling motor that ive got abrand new built forged ls2 still at mach. shop in bag 5200 inv.9 to 1cr 3850.and a id1sc with procharger withpolished air box and intercoolers that i am looking to get rid of if intrested call me barnat 724 869 9643.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

what are you talking about??? notorious for it??? there has not been 1 recorded hydrolock caused by a vararam besides if the retard drove through 3 feet of water.

greysteel_M6

iTrader: (5)

I said "I want to say vararam". I'm not sure of the make of the intake although I know it was similar. I'm sure he did not take his f'in vette through 3 feet of water.

Freddyrdzls1

iTrader: (2)

lol!!!!!

El Ex

Newb Question! How do you hyrdolock a motor? What should you avoid? I was told clod air intakes on LS1's can cause hydrlocking....

Rede

iTrader: (2)

Eeeps!

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

If you don't drive the damn thing through any flooded roads you should be fine.

7w/aswap

You can hydro-lock your engine from 4" of water. Just don't be going fast through puddles.

1987firechicken

Engine is toast rods are probably screw, block is more than likely cracked and pistons are probably fu**ed too. Water gets in the combustion chamber shockes everything with cool temps and last time I checked water doesn't compress for ****. With all of that it doesn't sound like that motor would be road worthy anytime soon but you may get luckey and it only killed rods, and some of the rotating assembly but I wouldn't waste my time with that. I'd pick up something from like Speed Inc. forged and ready to go but that is me. I say use it as a mock up I wouldn't want to be relying on a previously hydolocked block especially if it takes a **** and makes all your new replacement parts FUBAR.

My .02

BYE RICE

iTrader: (2)

I had just spent 12 + hrs installing an LPE prepped long block after saving 18 months for it...I had a rod bolt failure at 91K in Aug '03. The new engine was installed in Mar '05.
About 37 miles into the maiden drive home from the shop, I let the car pull up to about 4500 rpm in 5th (couldnt resist) & on the coast-down, all hell broke loose.
I let out a cloud of smoke so bad that cars behind me had to change lanes in order to see in front of them!..Steam ERUPTED from the tail pipes..The engine immediatly ran rough & died..
I pulled to shoulder & knew I was in deep ****.
Fresh Dex-Cool dribbled out of the open cut-out & tail pipes into the rain gutter.
Back onto the car hauler she went.
Long story short, the post mortem revealed what LPE described as a "pin hole" leak on the #5 intake runner seat..The damage to the block was a split #7 liner...The crack was hairline at the top of the block to San-Andreas sized at the bottom of the cylinder..
The leak was a thin spot in the ported casting & it took 37 miles to occur..& it happened on the #7 intake stroke..It pulled in a bunch coolant under pressure & on the compression stoke..BLAMMO!
The took everything back, built an new shortblock, & repaired(welded) the head.
No problems ever since.
I'm just glad I got all the parts from the same vendor..It would've been a bunch harder to have had a problem with one companies heads that took out another companies shortblock.

cfiester

iTrader: (1)

If it doesn't bend the rod, break the crank it will lift the heads

SilverStang00

iTrader: (2)

Know a guy with a 99 Z28 that ran threw a puddle of water and hydrolocked his motor. Not exactly sure what it broke but his car was down for awhile.

Bandit LS1

iTrader: (2)

Hydrolocking occurs when you fill a cylinder with water or coolant, since fluids are for the most part incompressible when the piston tries to compress them it can’t and something is going to have to give. This will usually result in a connecting rod bending and then blowing through the side of the block. It is not a result of the engine becoming “super cooled” and causing parts to crack or lock up when the water hits them……if you get enough water in your engine to cool your pistons to that degree your rods will have already been bent as the piston tried to compress it.

If you want to avoid it don’t drive through any lakes or deep puddles. As for aftermarket intakes or heavy rain causing it don’t worry about it, just don’t submerge the intake in water. Your engine can deal with small amounts of water getting into it under normal driving conditions.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

This is what I was gonna say, hydrolocking has nothing to do with an engines latent heat after being introduced to water. Liquids are virtually in compressible and the pressure has no where to go so the rods usually shoot up through the top of the piston before the piston about splits the cylinder in half. Also the number one way for determing hydrolock-"age" is pulling pushrods because when the water goes into the cylinder those pushrods are under tremondous stress and WILL bend before the lifters give out.

Solution, just idle through high water that way your TB blade is closed and not open to the elements, the clearence on the TB Blade and the housing of the TB should be watertight. But that will only do so much cause of the hole in the TB for air at idle.

Ls1Bait

I hydrolocked the motor in my 1999 chevy silverado, the fuel pressure regulator went out and it flooded it. It was under waranty so I didnt care lol. But my buddy hydrolocked his grand am with water, who drives through a 3 foot puddle LOLOLOLOL It NEVER ran again, it would turn over and make lots of noises.