Dumping the Clutch
08-06-2007, 12:02 AM
#1
Dumping the Clutch I am new to the manual scene. I have had two other auto F-body's and now i just bought an 00 TA WS6 6 speed, my first manul. I was curious is there a right or wrong way to dump the clutch from a stand still? I have yet to even try it, what rpm's are usually right to launch at for lightly modded WS6? What is the typical procedure for it? Do you push the clutch in then rev up the rpm's up and completely let the clutch out as quick as possible? Just give me some tips, so i know how to do it right!
08-06-2007, 12:04 AM
#2
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Are you at the track on street tires? If so... you wont hook with that method. Pretty much you wont hook with that method unless you are at the track with a nice sticky tire, then if you are on a 10 bolt... thats bad news...
If you are just wanting to do a burnout, then i dont know if there is a right or wrong way really, what i do is rev it to about 2 - 3 k, let off the gas slightly, dump the clutch, mat the gas. Thats how i have to get the sticky tires spinning, other than that the street tires just go up in smoke.
If you are just wanting to do a burnout, then i dont know if there is a right or wrong way really, what i do is rev it to about 2 - 3 k, let off the gas slightly, dump the clutch, mat the gas. Thats how i have to get the sticky tires spinning, other than that the street tires just go up in smoke.
Last edited by skeels; 08-06-2007 at 12:14 AM.
08-06-2007, 12:06 AM
#3
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ummm id say maybe since you are on street tires 1500 2000 rpm at the most you are still going to spin with it that high if you dump the clutch but wont be as bad if you are doing it at higher rpms
08-06-2007, 12:10 AM
#4
bring the rpm's to up around 2500, then let the clutch out quickly but not all at once (kind of slip it a little) and you'll need to feather the gas a bit until the tires grab completely, they should be kind of grabbing but more "hazing" til then. once the tires grab, floor it and start banging gears!
08-06-2007, 12:43 AM
#6
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Dumping the clutch is usually bad for a stock car. Asmodeus is on the right track, but wasn't very in-depth. Play around with your car and find the friction point of your clutch. This is going to be the point between your delivering power to your wheels, and letting the transmission free-wind. When you want to launch you want the find the friction point, and hold the pedal there while revving the car up to your desired launch point (my advice:no more than 3k on a stock 10bolt) as this releases the slack in the drive-line preventing "most" of the damage to the clutch, and transmission.
08-06-2007, 09:39 AM
#7
don't let the clutch slip at all.
to get a good launch, it takes a bit of experimentation with clutch drops due to suspension and tire condition.
The goal is to get a little chirp (1/4 sec chirp at most), a hook then floor it.
Start at 2000rpm. Hold it with the gas there, release the clutch COMPLETELY and quickly with no slip. If your car chirps but bogs or if it bogs completely, raise the rpm by 200. If it spins and refuses to hook, tires or road conditions aren't suitable for this.
You keep raising the rpm until you can't get it to hook without having to let go of the gas a significant amount. Also allow a decent amount of time for the clutch to cool if you are running a LS1/LS6 stock clutch.
Depending on suspension, there is a chance that you will find the "wheel hop" limit of the suspension. Do NOT attempt to raise the launch rpm or continue to run clutch dumps at this rpm or you can kiss that 10bolt goodbye.
I've managed to find my launch point to be at 3300rpm. I can go as high as 3500 with a bit of feathering and some good track conditions. Due to the nature of LS1 cars torque curve, a 4000rpm clutch dump on a stock 10 bolt is not advised as you are throwing your full torque at the 10 bolt.
to get a good launch, it takes a bit of experimentation with clutch drops due to suspension and tire condition.
The goal is to get a little chirp (1/4 sec chirp at most), a hook then floor it.
Start at 2000rpm. Hold it with the gas there, release the clutch COMPLETELY and quickly with no slip. If your car chirps but bogs or if it bogs completely, raise the rpm by 200. If it spins and refuses to hook, tires or road conditions aren't suitable for this.
You keep raising the rpm until you can't get it to hook without having to let go of the gas a significant amount. Also allow a decent amount of time for the clutch to cool if you are running a LS1/LS6 stock clutch.
Depending on suspension, there is a chance that you will find the "wheel hop" limit of the suspension. Do NOT attempt to raise the launch rpm or continue to run clutch dumps at this rpm or you can kiss that 10bolt goodbye.
I've managed to find my launch point to be at 3300rpm. I can go as high as 3500 with a bit of feathering and some good track conditions. Due to the nature of LS1 cars torque curve, a 4000rpm clutch dump on a stock 10 bolt is not advised as you are throwing your full torque at the 10 bolt.
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08-06-2007, 10:42 AM
#8
do not dump a 6 speed on a 10 bolt very often unless you have the money for an aftermarket rear end....they break very easily. just try what others have said and find out what works best for you b/c everyone drives different and has different results.
08-06-2007, 10:54 AM
#9
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It definitely takes some playing around with. I've had the best luck with about 2000-2500 and just going at it with the clutch. If the tires spin, then just feather the gas a touch to get them to calm down. You want to minimize the time your clutch is slipping if its a stock clutch, otherwise it wont last long at all. As soon as it cools off, I'm back to the track and I will see how I can do with my 4.10's and new LS7 clutch.
08-06-2007, 11:06 AM
#10
Most people that break 10 bolts when stock do so because they don't know the limits.
Sticky tires usually kill 10 bolts. A street tire will break traction before the 10 bolt grenades. Keep out of the peak torque. 3k rpm or less will be fine. Don't let it wheel hop, spinning chirping will be fine.
Listen to your 10 bolt. I've managed to take a 10 bolt to 200k miles before only breaking the ring/pinion and then taking then replacement gear set another 200k. During those intervals I had well over 200 passes.
If your pinion seal leaks, change it. Change fluid at regular intervals, observe the wear on the gears and the magnets on the cover. They tell you the condition of the 10 bolt. I'm not saying the 10 bolt will hold, but there are ways that many people "cheat" the lifespan of a 10 bolt.
If you have the cash to mod the engine to 400+ hp levels, then you can afford a rear. Always keep in mind it is living on borrowed time and more power brings it close to that torque breaking point. Oddly enough, it was street driving not a track pass that killed my 10 bolt. Stop and go heavy traffic.
Sticky tires usually kill 10 bolts. A street tire will break traction before the 10 bolt grenades. Keep out of the peak torque. 3k rpm or less will be fine. Don't let it wheel hop, spinning chirping will be fine.
Listen to your 10 bolt. I've managed to take a 10 bolt to 200k miles before only breaking the ring/pinion and then taking then replacement gear set another 200k. During those intervals I had well over 200 passes.
If your pinion seal leaks, change it. Change fluid at regular intervals, observe the wear on the gears and the magnets on the cover. They tell you the condition of the 10 bolt. I'm not saying the 10 bolt will hold, but there are ways that many people "cheat" the lifespan of a 10 bolt.
If you have the cash to mod the engine to 400+ hp levels, then you can afford a rear. Always keep in mind it is living on borrowed time and more power brings it close to that torque breaking point. Oddly enough, it was street driving not a track pass that killed my 10 bolt. Stop and go heavy traffic.
08-09-2007, 10:51 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by SladeX
I think the 9 inch is a better option for m6 users, 12 bolts with serious engine mods have met untimely ends as well.
Rule of thumb for LS1's when going with a new rear end...
12 bolt: automatics
9 inch: manuals
