Wanting to Buy lid and need advice
#3
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They all get the same amount of rwhp, which is just a small enough bump that you might be able to feel it. All brands have had people who say they fit great, and all brands have people who say they fit like crap. Buy the one you like the best or whichever is cheapest. I have an MTI clear lid because I wanted a clear one and don't like the shape of the TSP one.
Have fun.
Have fun.
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#8
I have the MTI Clear Lid. Everyone who sees my engine bay compliments it. Fitment is good, and it will look really cool on the dyno when I run a dry shot of nitrous through it.
I picked up 6whp/11wtq on a mustang dyno from my lid. So maybe 7whp/12wtq on a dynojet.
I picked up 6whp/11wtq on a mustang dyno from my lid. So maybe 7whp/12wtq on a dynojet.
#11
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Tips for installing a lid for the first time:
1) The round port of the lid does go over the MAF housing. Some people have a hard time with this fact and dig through the box looking for a bellows.
2) If your lid wont fit the MAF housing - good! That means the fit will be tight and it wont leak. We will MAKE it fit...
3) When your lid doesn't want to fit on the MAF housing (or 'MAFH') try heating the last inch or two of the lid plastic to soften it up. Common methods are: hold it over hot stove top then quickly press the lid onto the MAFH sitting on the counter, dip an inch or two of the lid in hot water momentarily then do the same as above, heat it in the microwave, heat it with a blowdryer (has to be a big one) or heatgun, remove some material from the inside of the lid port.
4) The IAT from your stock airbox gets reused. It is the little black sensor you removed a 2-pin connector from earlier. It can be tough to remove/reinstall. Common aides are: greasing the grommet, using a flat blade screwdriver to poke/pry, pressing from the inside-out.
5) The round stainless clamp from your stock airbox-to-MAFH can be reused. However, it has a square notch cut in it on purpose to better work with the factory parts you have removed and may be weaker than a new, solid clamp. Such a clamp can be had at your local hardware store for less than $3.
6) While you have the stock airbox parts off and before you install the new lid, take the time to remove the lower airbox plastic/radiator shroud and clean the dirt and grime from your front radiator support. Otherwise it will continue to swirl around in there and clog your air filter. You'll also have access to the front of the radiator itself now, and if you have any sort of miles on your sled you're bound to have bugs and other debris stuck in your radiator fins. Now is a great time to tackle that.
7) An aftermarket cotton air filter does not necessarily flow better than a paper air filter. The cotton air filter's claim to fame is the fact that it can be removed, cleaned and reused therefore you only buy it once.
8) When it comes time to install the lid, slip the back side with the tabs all the way into the slots FIRST and then drop the front of the lid down SECOND. The front-center lip of the lid is meant to ride within the rim of the stock lower airbox. Now clip on the latches and go do some burnouts with that extra 10hp! LOL
1) The round port of the lid does go over the MAF housing. Some people have a hard time with this fact and dig through the box looking for a bellows.
2) If your lid wont fit the MAF housing - good! That means the fit will be tight and it wont leak. We will MAKE it fit...
3) When your lid doesn't want to fit on the MAF housing (or 'MAFH') try heating the last inch or two of the lid plastic to soften it up. Common methods are: hold it over hot stove top then quickly press the lid onto the MAFH sitting on the counter, dip an inch or two of the lid in hot water momentarily then do the same as above, heat it in the microwave, heat it with a blowdryer (has to be a big one) or heatgun, remove some material from the inside of the lid port.
4) The IAT from your stock airbox gets reused. It is the little black sensor you removed a 2-pin connector from earlier. It can be tough to remove/reinstall. Common aides are: greasing the grommet, using a flat blade screwdriver to poke/pry, pressing from the inside-out.
5) The round stainless clamp from your stock airbox-to-MAFH can be reused. However, it has a square notch cut in it on purpose to better work with the factory parts you have removed and may be weaker than a new, solid clamp. Such a clamp can be had at your local hardware store for less than $3.
6) While you have the stock airbox parts off and before you install the new lid, take the time to remove the lower airbox plastic/radiator shroud and clean the dirt and grime from your front radiator support. Otherwise it will continue to swirl around in there and clog your air filter. You'll also have access to the front of the radiator itself now, and if you have any sort of miles on your sled you're bound to have bugs and other debris stuck in your radiator fins. Now is a great time to tackle that.
7) An aftermarket cotton air filter does not necessarily flow better than a paper air filter. The cotton air filter's claim to fame is the fact that it can be removed, cleaned and reused therefore you only buy it once.
8) When it comes time to install the lid, slip the back side with the tabs all the way into the slots FIRST and then drop the front of the lid down SECOND. The front-center lip of the lid is meant to ride within the rim of the stock lower airbox. Now clip on the latches and go do some burnouts with that extra 10hp! LOL
#14
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MTI net the best track time, but when i looked at it, the mti 1/4 time also had the best 60ft, which could also explain the better time, so maybe it was more due to traction that the 1/4 time was better. Either way, all lids were about the same, not much significant difference in each. Mostly a personal preference on looks when it comes down to it.
#19
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