taws6

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

I'm trying to understand a bit more about n2o.
I have a 2001 LS1.

1. First up, which is considered safer for a shot under 100, a wet or dry shot?

In the mod guide, it states:

Often a (dry) shot will find the weak spot in the fuel system, be it the injectors, the fuel pump, etc. Spraying N2O without the fuel to support it equals the kiss of death for your car.

I guess this means your motor goes drasticly lean.

2. So what will go bang, and would it be difficult to fix?

3. Would a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch prevent any problems with the fuel system before this became an issue?

4. I guess it is unusual for the MAF, PCM, or fuel system to go wrong, even with n2o?

Thanks for taking the time to explain..........

yellowjacketfever

your maf will not go bad with nos. it will effect your engine if you do not put the nozzle in front of the maf. somewhere just behind the filter. and you can also run a 100 shot safely with a dry shot. but if you want a wet shot is the way to go. the kit is designed to mix the fuel and nos the same and therefore being makeing it safer. now as far as damage with a dry shot will be a hole in the top of the piston, or you can blow the compression rings, or crack them. and that is bad. if you hook up a dry shot and use all the valves and switches and install them right then a dry shot is as safe as a wet shot. go over the 100 shot then i would go wet. or go a wet shot and be good to go. just remember when useing nos anything can happen, i no a guy that has a forged 4.6 in his 04 mustang. and has put new pistons in it 3 times. because one of the solenoids quits and one side is running all nos and not enough fuel. and he has blowed 3 pistons because of it. and has had to rebuild the engine 3 times. now he is forged and runs a kenny bell supercharger and is a bit slower. until his blower blew up and got his engine again. he has had bad luck with his car. just be perpared for anything to happen when you use nos...

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

Nitrous is as safe as you want it to be. Buy a window switch (spray only at certain rpms at WOT), A/F shutdown switch (cuts n20 off when car is too rich or too lean) and make sure you back off your timing a couple of degrees. As long as you take all of the safety precautions you shouldn't hurt anything. Check out the sticky in the nitrous section, it should help answer some of your questions.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Okay, thanks for your replys guys.

I would get every ' keep safe part' I could fit.

So with a dry shot, the real risk of damage is from the fuel system going wrong / not delivering fuel, while the N2O still sprays??

Would the A/F shutdown switch / Fuel Pressure Safety Switch prevent the N2O being sprayed if there was any problems with the fuel system??

So the ONLY way a dry shot can cause damage, is if you fail to fit a A/F shutdown switch / Fuel Pressure Safety Switch ??

Sorry to hear about your friends Mustang yellowjacketfever, problems like that must suck.......

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't say the ONLY way it can cause damage is if not enough fuel is delivered, but that would be the main concern. An A/F shutdown switch will shut off the nitrous if it detects a lean condition, so I would say this would be the most effective way to prevent that.

Nick@HSW

iTrader: (4)

1) Neither is going to be technically safer than the other. I would recommend purchasing a kit based on evaluations of your current mods and any future plans. The only downside to a dry shot is that you might be required to upgrade your injectors. Regardless, it sounds like the mod guide might have some dated information.

2) Many things can go wrong...best piece of advice I can give is use the safety items that are available today. Take a look at our all-out kit which will get you covered for all of the main safety components. I would also suggest learning about nitrous and its uses...I can't tell you how many times guys just spray away without understanding what exactly they're doing. This will also help spot any potential hazards and could possibly save you from a costly mistake.

3) I would actually recommend the a/f shut down switch over a fuel pressure safety switch. Take a look at the microEDGE controller we offer for a all in one unit.

4) Stock PCM's and sensors have proven reliable time and time again. I would ensure that the fuel system is up to snuff, but again, none of this is a guarantee.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Nick

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Other than needing to up size the injectors, if need be, the fuel system is no different than a wet hit when it comes to the pump. Actually it's easier, more cost effect to just upgrade the in-tank pump if needed, rather than adding a fuel tank under the hood for the wet. My buddy is currently supporting 717rwhp with a stock pump/fuel system and BAP. So we can see, the fuel systems can handle hp with out to much trouble. People try to use the argument that dry is less than desirable because you may need to up size injectors, lol. How many times has any one used that argument to cancel out some one wanting to go bolt ons, or turbos, or blowers, it's just such a weak lame argument.

You have read between the lines when reading the stickies or the wet vs dry threads as the technology of the dry has advanced to the point that all issues of the past have been addressed. we can now totally control the fueling, the timing pull, progressing and so on with our stock PCMs via the "Interface". Remember, High Technology is our friend and that is what the dry is all about. The wet hit and the wet solenoid is dated tech, IMO, and a hold over from carburetor days. You are definitely on the right track thinking about going dry. Once you get a true understanding of the wet vs dry, likely you will see that dry just may be the route you would like to take. that's the goal for me, letting guys make informed decisions based on facts what may be the best route for them to go.

As far as safety. the dry wins out here. check for the redundant noid thread for more insight on how to make the dry hits the ultimate safety kit. If we run redundant noids on our dry hits, what could go wrong? Once we address the sticking open nitrous solenoid issue there really is nothing left than cause an issue on your dry hit that could spell doom for your motor.

If you do like the dry tech, the best way these days to do dry is to run the HSW Dry plate kit which includes the Interface for fueling and timing needs and only comes in to effect when nitrous is spraying so it doesn't effect n/a tune. A guy at our dyno pull this past week end had a wet hit, but had so much timing pulled in his tune for spraying that his n/a power was off like 50hp. However, the guy that won the pull off was running a dry hit with the Interface and no timing pull n/a, only when spraying.

As far as tuning the hits, well the dry has become far easier, quicker and much more apt to repeat the same time after time. Some will try and say the dry is needs tuning where as the wet does not. what a bunch of BS, they both need tuned. the problem is, the wet kit comes with no way to pull timing, and no way to adjust a/f ratios. the dry kit with the Interface, we can adjust the a/f ratio in 5hp increments leaner or richer and dial in exactly what we want, the wet is not so tunable. In a nut shell, the Interface can be set up to pull what ever timing you like. Actually, the wet hits would be much better off with the Interface for tuning.

Well, there's probably enough info to get you started down your spraying path. Please let us know if we can help with more questions. good luck, wet or dry.
Robert

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

^^ Nice and well written.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for making that all so understandable.
I had writen n20 off, but am now starting to see it's plus points, and mabey it's not all bad risk.

I will definately be spending a lot more time reading and learning about the wet / dry kits before buying, but now I'm thinking n2o mabey in my future.

Thanks again for taking the time,

Kind regards,
Paul.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Your welcome and thanks for the kind words (and also subhumanzz). Yes nitrous in general has come a long way in the safety department, esp now that we can add a lean/rich shut down feature very easily.

You know where most of the problems come from? mostly it is the guys that get in a hurry and slap their kits on jetted like suggested, but don't bother to verify a/f ratio, spark knock and so on. when a manufacture suggests using this and that jet for a given HP level, it is really a starting point that is generally safe for most. however, the cars and combos are all different so one may need more fuel and another less fuel to be safe. so we like to tell everyone, log your first pass at a minimum, a dyno tune is also nice. really all directions should be clear on getting a nitrous tune and/or verify parameters.
Robert