school me on the electronics of nitrous
02-08-2010, 11:13 PM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
school me on the electronics of nitrous im running the cc306 cam in a fresh rebuild lt1. stock internals minus arp rod bolts. i wanna spin to 6800. I got a dry kit from an ls1 fro NOS for cheap from a friend. i believe it was jetted for 125 hp shot. It has a 10 lb bottle, 2 noids, purge, wiring harness, has all a lines. im just missing the switches for it. i'd like to get a nitrous pressure gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. I also just purchased the nitrous oulet brand x wet to dry conversion http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...0&product=3511
I wanna know what would be the most cost effective way to control nitrous etc window switch and what not.. ive seen some use a mallory box too control everything from timming retard to window switch. i just wanna get my bang for my buuck also is there anything else that i should purchase to make this kit work well on an lt1
I wanna know what would be the most cost effective way to control nitrous etc window switch and what not.. ive seen some use a mallory box too control everything from timming retard to window switch. i just wanna get my bang for my buuck also is there anything else that i should purchase to make this kit work well on an lt1
02-09-2010, 05:08 AM
#2
TECH Resident
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Taxme, Ohio
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like to think that I've learned my lesson with my LT1 and adding nitrous.
First, I think my Mallory 685 multistrike ignition controller was the best purchase of all as it not only has the LED display but combines the all important rev limiter, spark advance and window controls.
If you have a dry kit with two solenoids you either have two foggers or one of the solenoids controls a purge - unless there's something else I don't understand. On less sophisticated kits, two solenoids indicate a wet kit.
As for the switches, these are relatively cheap. An electronic wide open throttle switch is more expensive than a mechanical but the main point is electronic throttle switches require more comprehension and wiring within the system.
Keep in mind that solenoids and relays generally work by controlling the ground rather than the positive side of the circuit.
The cheaper mechanical pressure gages is fine as long as you see it. The electronic gages are relatively expensive but very cool.
A purge kit is considered for show unless you are a serious racer but it has a critical function in that you can relieve the pressure from your control solenoid and prevent the nitrous gas from leaking into the intake when the engine is off. There have been times when a leaking solenoid has allowed nitrous to leach into the intake of an engine while it was off. When this happens and the engine is started there is backfire explosion. If the pooling nitrous is significant, the explosion can ruin the throttle body or in the worst situation, blow the intake manifold off the engine.
Finally, make sure your fuel system is up to the task. You can change to a Walbro (or equivalent) high volume pump or do as I did since my fuel pump was recently replaced with stock, add an in-line booster.
There are quite a few safety items you can continue adding to a home brew nitrous kit such as fuel pressure safety switch or a digital DynoTune lean cut off switch. Personally, I wouldn't think of running nitrous, even a 125 shot without a wideband to accurately determine AFR. A wideband is a serious investment but nothing shows you more exactly how lean or rich your engine is running like it. In fact, if I only had the money for a nitrous kit or a wideband kit I would buy the wideband kit. Safety first for your investment and nothing will protect your engine like knowing and controlling the Air Fuel Ratio.
First, I think my Mallory 685 multistrike ignition controller was the best purchase of all as it not only has the LED display but combines the all important rev limiter, spark advance and window controls.
If you have a dry kit with two solenoids you either have two foggers or one of the solenoids controls a purge - unless there's something else I don't understand. On less sophisticated kits, two solenoids indicate a wet kit.
As for the switches, these are relatively cheap. An electronic wide open throttle switch is more expensive than a mechanical but the main point is electronic throttle switches require more comprehension and wiring within the system.
Keep in mind that solenoids and relays generally work by controlling the ground rather than the positive side of the circuit.
The cheaper mechanical pressure gages is fine as long as you see it. The electronic gages are relatively expensive but very cool.
A purge kit is considered for show unless you are a serious racer but it has a critical function in that you can relieve the pressure from your control solenoid and prevent the nitrous gas from leaking into the intake when the engine is off. There have been times when a leaking solenoid has allowed nitrous to leach into the intake of an engine while it was off. When this happens and the engine is started there is backfire explosion. If the pooling nitrous is significant, the explosion can ruin the throttle body or in the worst situation, blow the intake manifold off the engine.
Finally, make sure your fuel system is up to the task. You can change to a Walbro (or equivalent) high volume pump or do as I did since my fuel pump was recently replaced with stock, add an in-line booster.
There are quite a few safety items you can continue adding to a home brew nitrous kit such as fuel pressure safety switch or a digital DynoTune lean cut off switch. Personally, I wouldn't think of running nitrous, even a 125 shot without a wideband to accurately determine AFR. A wideband is a serious investment but nothing shows you more exactly how lean or rich your engine is running like it. In fact, if I only had the money for a nitrous kit or a wideband kit I would buy the wideband kit. Safety first for your investment and nothing will protect your engine like knowing and controlling the Air Fuel Ratio.
02-09-2010, 09:17 AM
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ill be rocking the wet kit on my setup. single fogger nozzle with purge. can you recomend a wideband? im def. gonna run the mallory seems like a good all in one unit
02-09-2010, 11:29 AM
#4
TECH Resident
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Taxme, Ohio
Posts: 781
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My only experience is with the Innovate stuff. It's digital so in that sense you are getting the best response time. I think there's a link to a wideband kit shoot-out in the top stickies of the tuning section. The tested Innovate kit was the LC-1 which is less expensive than the LM-1 with the LMA-2 rpm converter (with auxiliary inputs) which I have. The problem with the LC-1 kit is that you need a way to log the AFR data. The LM-1 controller has internal memory but the logged data can't be viewed until it is uploaded to a computer. Here's where it gets more expensive. I ended up buying the efilive black box and a laptop; later upgrading to the tuning software with license. Now I have taken the question way off topic and run the risk of having the moderator move or delete.
02-10-2010, 11:00 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
The Mallory would be a great choice...We have had several customers go that route and have loved it. Other than the Mallory id suggest getting a FPSS http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...2&product=2553 . Innovative makes a very nice wideband setup and we have had several customers use them and all have had nothing but positive feedback.
Trending Topics
02-11-2010, 09:57 AM
#8
FormerVendor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Glenolden, PA
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, not necessarily...there is quite a few more features included with the microedge/interface combo than the mallory box. The question is if you need the features such as a/f shut down, tps, dual stage, fueling control, delays, etc.
Nick
Nick
02-11-2010, 10:25 AM
#9
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nick, I was reading about the interaface that yall offer. I noticed that it is only compatible with obd-2 on an lt1. that is another reason that i have not really considered it i dont wanna upgrade to an obd2 computer. Is there something else that i yall offer?