Nitrous wiring problems...keeps blowing fuses.
04-18-2010, 01:36 PM
#1
Nitrous wiring problems...keeps blowing fuses. I have a NOS 78mm plate kit. I have everything wired up like the following (minus the fpss):
As soon as the circuit is completed, I keep blowing fuses in the inline fuse feeding direct power to the relay (up to 30 amps).
One thing I noticed is that I only have a two prong switch to activate the nitrous, all of the switches that I have seen in the diagrams have three, inlcuding a ground, the switch I have does not have a ground.
Q: Do I need a three prong switch?
Q: I am thinking that there must be too much resistence in my wiring somewhere, which in turn would draw more amps. Maybe bad grounds?
Q: I was also thinking that I do not have a thick enough gauge running from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the noids. Should I use 10 gauge?
Q: One last thing is that I just noticed that the micro switch/wot switch that came with the kit says that it's terminals are only rated for 5 amps. Should I get a diffterent one?
As soon as the circuit is completed, I keep blowing fuses in the inline fuse feeding direct power to the relay (up to 30 amps).
One thing I noticed is that I only have a two prong switch to activate the nitrous, all of the switches that I have seen in the diagrams have three, inlcuding a ground, the switch I have does not have a ground.
Q: Do I need a three prong switch?
Q: I am thinking that there must be too much resistence in my wiring somewhere, which in turn would draw more amps. Maybe bad grounds?
Q: I was also thinking that I do not have a thick enough gauge running from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the noids. Should I use 10 gauge?
Q: One last thing is that I just noticed that the micro switch/wot switch that came with the kit says that it's terminals are only rated for 5 amps. Should I get a diffterent one?
04-19-2010, 06:44 AM
#5
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The third lug on the switch is grounded usually to get a LED or light indication in the switch when the system is active. Using the two prong is ok, just be sure it is not grounded (it should have + on one lug, then go to the accessory as the power source on the other), so it sounds like you did OK there.
Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp side (so you may want to use thicker/lower gauge wires on that circuit), the other pins are usually low amps-so your microswitch should be fine.
Where are you grounds? Are you noids good?
Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp side (so you may want to use thicker/lower gauge wires on that circuit), the other pins are usually low amps-so your microswitch should be fine.
Where are you grounds? Are you noids good?
Last edited by Beer99C5; 04-19-2010 at 06:55 AM.
04-19-2010, 11:01 AM
#6
The third lug on the switch is grounded usually to get a LED or light indication in the switch when the system is active. Using the two prong is ok, just be sure it is not grounded (it should have + on one lug, then go to the accessory as the power source on the other), so it sounds like you did OK there.
Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp side (so you may want to use thicker/lower gauge wires on that circuit), the other pins are usually low amps-so your microswitch should be fine.
Where are you grounds? Are you noids good?
Pins 30 and 87 are the high amp side (so you may want to use thicker/lower gauge wires on that circuit), the other pins are usually low amps-so your microswitch should be fine.
Where are you grounds? Are you noids good?
For the grounding points I am using existing grounds, there is one bolt on each shock tower, one grounds the batter harness, the other is a ground for the fuse box. They are a little dirty though, so I'll clean them up.
Noids are used, I have no idea if they are bad or not.
04-19-2010, 11:12 AM
#7
I will add thicker gauge to the high amp side.
For the grounding points I am using existing grounds, there is one bolt on each shock tower, one grounds the batter harness, the other is a ground for the fuse box. They are a little dirty though, so I'll clean them up.
Noids are used, I have no idea if they are bad or not.
For the grounding points I am using existing grounds, there is one bolt on each shock tower, one grounds the batter harness, the other is a ground for the fuse box. They are a little dirty though, so I'll clean them up.
Noids are used, I have no idea if they are bad or not.
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04-19-2010, 11:27 AM
#8
04-19-2010, 12:16 PM
#9
Couple More Questions While we are on the topic:
Q: Is Red 10 the right pin that everyone uses to get a tach signal from the LS1 pcm for a pill type MSD window switch?
Q: What size amp fuse should be used for an inline fuse for the direct batter feed (high amp side) for the noids?
Q: Is Red 10 the right pin that everyone uses to get a tach signal from the LS1 pcm for a pill type MSD window switch?
Q: What size amp fuse should be used for an inline fuse for the direct batter feed (high amp side) for the noids?
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 04-19-2010 at 04:17 PM.
04-19-2010, 08:32 PM
#11
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2. most will use 20A... are you wiring up both solenoids through a single relay or does each solenoid have its own relay? try a 30A and see what it does....
do the solenoids ever engage at all or does it blow the fuse immediately?
so your saying your running a SPST switch to arm the system?
which is fine, im just trying to understand the whole situation...
i would view the schematic you wired and look at where a possible short could occur..
well on one side of the SPST "arming" switch you have keyed power...if the short to ground existed there, the accesory fuse of whichever circuit you jumped off of will blow out as soon as you turn the key... so, your problem is not there...
next,the SPST"arming" switch...has no ground connection to it...hard to imagine the short coming from there...its not impossible but unlikely...
next you have a length of wire going to numerous locations... from the SPST"arming" switch the wire T's off to power the MSDbox as well as goes through a "WOT" momentary SPST switch... before getting to the 86 terminal on the relay...if a short to ground occured between the "arming" switch and the "Wot" switch and/or between the "arming" switch and the msdbox, the fuse would blow as soon as you give keyed power... if the short to ground existed after the WOT switch, it would require keyed power"arming" as well as safety "WOT" to flow the fuse... if the short existed between these points as well, the msd box is probably toast... hopefully the amp saved it, but you never know with such delicate electronics...
i dont think the short is between the battery and pin 30 on the relay...reason being fuse would blow as soon as you put it in , doesnt matter what key position...
it could also occur within the relay, but i dont see that as being too probable..
the final place it could be would be between relay (pin 87) and the solenoids..however, since the solenoids require the system to be armed, WOT safety , FP safety, and RPM requirement in order to activate, all those conditions will have to be met in order for the fuse to blow...
so if your fuse is blowing as soon as you flip the "arming" switch, my guess would be your problem lies between pin 86 on the relay and your SPST "arming switch and/or MSD box...
the easiest way is to isolate the part of the circuit you think the problem lies and do a resistance test with your DMM...
easiest way in your case, disconnect wire at pin 86 on relay... disconnect wire at SPST "arming" switch... take your DMM and set to OHMS... one lead to chassis (ground), other lead to wire...
your gonna test in 3 spots to start with... first your gonna test the wire @ the terminal going to pin 86 on the relay(wire side), then the terminal going to the "arming" switch (wire side), then either location but with the wot switch closed...
first spot will be to see if the short exists between the relay and "wot" switch, second to see if it exists between the "arming switch and WOT switch and/or msd box... third to see if the short occurs through the "wot" switch itself...
when you attach your two leads you will see O.L. ...hopefully... that means there is no path to ground... if you see any number, even 0.0 that means you found the location of the short...O.L. is what your after...
once you know the points between where it lies you can pull and inspect the wire...
Last edited by SUCK MY SS; 04-19-2010 at 08:41 PM.
