TNT wet kit......is that the best kit for a 150-200 shot?
08-17-2012, 04:07 PM
#2
You could pull from the rail or use a stand a lone.
Be watchful of the plugs on the opposite side of the fuel rail you end up pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from, as they will be hotter than the side you are pulling the fuel from.
Is this a kit you already own or are thinking of purchasing?
Be watchful of the plugs on the opposite side of the fuel rail you end up pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from, as they will be hotter than the side you are pulling the fuel from.
Is this a kit you already own or are thinking of purchasing?
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 08-18-2012 at 08:43 AM.
08-17-2012, 04:25 PM
#3
I do not have anything yet. My forged iron 370ci gets built starting next week Wednesday. Should be done in a week after that.
I plan to boost it in about 6 months.....but I was thinking of spraying a 150-200 shot until then. It'll be 9.5:1 cr so I wanted a little extra kick until the turbo set-up gets installed.
I can do a stand alone with separate pump if thats better.
.
I plan to boost it in about 6 months.....but I was thinking of spraying a 150-200 shot until then. It'll be 9.5:1 cr so I wanted a little extra kick until the turbo set-up gets installed.
I can do a stand alone with separate pump if thats better.
.
08-17-2012, 08:49 PM
#4
You probably won't even notice it on a 150, on a 200 some will be noticeable and that will be when you have to start paying a little more attention. Still nothing horrible you can't deal with you just have to be more diligent about it. One good example here is Carter03, he has pulled fuel from the rail for a long time tuned off his hottest hole and did work.
08-17-2012, 10:00 PM
#5
You probably won't even notice it on a 150, on a 200 some will be noticeable and that will be when you have to start paying a little more attention. Still nothing horrible you can't deal with you just have to be more diligent about it. One good example here is Carter03, he has pulled fuel from the rail for a long time tuned off his hottest hole and did work.
But if I go 200.....it might get close to not having enough pressure?
I have a Racetronix fuel set-up now.......
.
08-18-2012, 08:41 AM
#6
On LS motors still using the factory fuel rails the crossover for the fuel rail that feeds the passenger side injectors with fuel will inevitably have less volume of fuel reaching those injectors than the drivers side because the fuel feed connects to the driver side fuel rail, feeds those injectors on that side, then crosses over the manifold to the passenger side fuel rail thus feeding those injectors.
When you start pulling fuel from that drivers side and pulling larger and larger amounts of fuel from that side inevitably also the passenger side will become more starved of fuel than the drivers side because you're pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from the drivers side. On small shots 150 and lower you never really even notice it because there is sufficient volume and fuel flow, but once you go over 200-250 you begin to see the passenger side plugs hotter than the drivers side because they are leaner due to the fuel flow to that side being less than the drivers side.
Make more sense?
08-18-2012, 04:46 PM
#7
Notice that the passenger side of the motor cylinders will be hotter than the drivers side because you are pulling fuel from the rail on the drivers side.
On LS motors still using the factory fuel rails the crossover for the fuel rail that feeds the passenger side injectors with fuel will inevitably have less volume of fuel reaching those injectors than the drivers side because the fuel feed connects to the driver side fuel rail, feeds those injectors on that side, then crosses over the manifold to the passenger side fuel rail thus feeding those injectors.
When you start pulling fuel from that drivers side and pulling larger and larger amounts of fuel from that side inevitably also the passenger side will become more starved of fuel than the drivers side because you're pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from the drivers side. On small shots 150 and lower you never really even notice it because there is sufficient volume and fuel flow, but once you go over 200-250 you begin to see the passenger side plugs hotter than the drivers side because they are leaner due to the fuel flow to that side being less than the drivers side.
Make more sense?
On LS motors still using the factory fuel rails the crossover for the fuel rail that feeds the passenger side injectors with fuel will inevitably have less volume of fuel reaching those injectors than the drivers side because the fuel feed connects to the driver side fuel rail, feeds those injectors on that side, then crosses over the manifold to the passenger side fuel rail thus feeding those injectors.
When you start pulling fuel from that drivers side and pulling larger and larger amounts of fuel from that side inevitably also the passenger side will become more starved of fuel than the drivers side because you're pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from the drivers side. On small shots 150 and lower you never really even notice it because there is sufficient volume and fuel flow, but once you go over 200-250 you begin to see the passenger side plugs hotter than the drivers side because they are leaner due to the fuel flow to that side being less than the drivers side.
Make more sense?
.
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08-20-2012, 10:54 AM
#9
Notice that the passenger side of the motor cylinders will be hotter than the drivers side because you are pulling fuel from the rail on the drivers side.
On LS motors still using the factory fuel rails the crossover for the fuel rail that feeds the passenger side injectors with fuel will inevitably have less volume of fuel reaching those injectors than the drivers side because the fuel feed connects to the driver side fuel rail, feeds those injectors on that side, then crosses over the manifold to the passenger side fuel rail thus feeding those injectors.
When you start pulling fuel from that drivers side and pulling larger and larger amounts of fuel from that side inevitably also the passenger side will become more starved of fuel than the drivers side because you're pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from the drivers side. On small shots 150 and lower you never really even notice it because there is sufficient volume and fuel flow, but once you go over 200-250 you begin to see the passenger side plugs hotter than the drivers side because they are leaner due to the fuel flow to that side being less than the drivers side.
Make more sense?
On LS motors still using the factory fuel rails the crossover for the fuel rail that feeds the passenger side injectors with fuel will inevitably have less volume of fuel reaching those injectors than the drivers side because the fuel feed connects to the driver side fuel rail, feeds those injectors on that side, then crosses over the manifold to the passenger side fuel rail thus feeding those injectors.
When you start pulling fuel from that drivers side and pulling larger and larger amounts of fuel from that side inevitably also the passenger side will become more starved of fuel than the drivers side because you're pulling your nitrous enrichment fuel from the drivers side. On small shots 150 and lower you never really even notice it because there is sufficient volume and fuel flow, but once you go over 200-250 you begin to see the passenger side plugs hotter than the drivers side because they are leaner due to the fuel flow to that side being less than the drivers side.
Make more sense?
08-22-2012, 01:26 AM
#11
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You will be good on the 150 as others have said. Many things play into that intial hit/pressure drop. Just put a fuel pressure gauge & tape it to the bottom of the windsheild & go test her out. I have had cars where 200 made a 2-3psi drop then others that see 15psi spike downfall. Install time depends on how many options are added to wire. Such as fuel pressure safety switch, window switch, bottle heater, remote opener, timing retard unit, etc. I heat shrink & solder All wires & connections. That tends to add a hour or two vesus doing a quick crimp & calling it good. That thing should Love the bottle if its already been built for boost.
There is Many good plate systems out there. I Mostly use NX on 80% of my installs. Nitrous Directs plate works Very good too. I tend to stay away from a lot of the other company's that still use OLD stuff. Like the old style solenoids & bottle vavles as they have MASS restrictions & end up being restrictions. Not to mention NX's lifetime warr. Hope this helps you!
There is Many good plate systems out there. I Mostly use NX on 80% of my installs. Nitrous Directs plate works Very good too. I tend to stay away from a lot of the other company's that still use OLD stuff. Like the old style solenoids & bottle vavles as they have MASS restrictions & end up being restrictions. Not to mention NX's lifetime warr. Hope this helps you!
08-22-2012, 04:18 PM
#12
You will be good on the 150 as others have said. Many things play into that intial hit/pressure drop. Just put a fuel pressure gauge & tape it to the bottom of the windsheild & go test her out. I have had cars where 200 made a 2-3psi drop then others that see 15psi spike downfall. Install time depends on how many options are added to wire. Such as fuel pressure safety switch, window switch, bottle heater, remote opener, timing retard unit, etc. I heat shrink & solder All wires & connections. That tends to add a hour or two vesus doing a quick crimp & calling it good. That thing should Love the bottle if its already been built for boost.
There is Many good plate systems out there. I Mostly use NX on 80% of my installs. Nitrous Directs plate works Very good too. I tend to stay away from a lot of the other company's that still use OLD stuff. Like the old style solenoids & bottle vavles as they have MASS restrictions & end up being restrictions. Not to mention NX's lifetime warr. Hope this helps you!
There is Many good plate systems out there. I Mostly use NX on 80% of my installs. Nitrous Directs plate works Very good too. I tend to stay away from a lot of the other company's that still use OLD stuff. Like the old style solenoids & bottle vavles as they have MASS restrictions & end up being restrictions. Not to mention NX's lifetime warr. Hope this helps you!
If your nitrous is changing phase before it gets into the cylinder, it's no good.
08-22-2012, 05:01 PM
#13
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Martin has you handled on most of your questions but i wanted to chime in on something.... Unless you plan on buying the kit used TNT has been out of business for quite some time now. At least 8yrs or longer.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
08-22-2012, 11:25 PM
#14
Martin has you handled on most of your questions but i wanted to chime in on something.... Unless you plan on buying the kit used TNT has been out of business for quite some time now. At least 8yrs or longer.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
I'll call you guys for sure. Have to speak to my builder tomorrow when I drop off the block for him about this spray idea before I do the turbo.
Thanks.
.
08-28-2012, 07:37 AM
#17
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Martin has you handled on most of your questions but i wanted to chime in on something.... Unless you plan on buying the kit used TNT has been out of business for quite some time now. At least 8yrs or longer.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
If you wanted proven performance on a plate over 200hp then I'd suggest going with one of our versions... We even have customers on here and some that don't post on forums spraying 300hp with our plates with phenomenal results time and time again.
08-28-2012, 09:28 AM
#18
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TNT kits hit hard as all hell but that was also due to their off the wall jetting. Their 100hp shot was really a 150hp shot and so on as you stepped up in the shot range. The first kit i ever had on my car was a TNT power ring pilled at 200hp then after 2 bottles i uped it to 250hp till the stock motor tagged out from me being stupid spraying with nothing other than a micro switch.
