11.7?
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12-16-2015, 02:37 PM
#13
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Something ain't quite right. Are you sure the nitrous is coming on? What does the car run on motor? My N/A stock internal 99 Camaro went 11.68@113, with similar DA, Yank SS4000, and OBX headers. At this point, you'd probably cry if I told you what it went on the gun. What brand plate are you using? Complete new kit or scrapped together old parts? Plugs? Fuel Filter? Maintenence?
12-16-2015, 09:05 PM
#14
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built 4l60 on a 3800 circle d, ls6 intake custom lid, ported maf and tb lt headers ory and borla exhaust.. im just flashing the conveter and hitting 1.60 60' hiting right n20 right after I start rolling I stalled it up and I just light up the hoosier drag radials.. I do the tune myself and I have a fti street sweeper cam waiting to go in just haven't got time but the tranny went so I threw the stall in when I had it rebuilt and added a cooler.. I got a friend that's going to look at my tune and adjust hes got a 9 sec s10.. im running a nos brand plate new br7 plugs new msd wires new filter oil battery lol
12-18-2015, 12:47 AM
#15
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Ok, let's get this bitch figger'd out.
Step 1. Throw that junk *** plate in the nearest garbage can. I've never seen anyone run an impressive ET with that turd. I had one. It worked like complete dogshit.
Step 2. Get a real tune. What wideband is installed on the car?
Step 3. Buy another stock MAF sensor. Ported MAF's cause more tuning problems than they solve. Do you know how much air is flowing past the MAF now? No! Either does your ECU.
Step 4. Figure out your traction problem. You shouldn't be "lighting up" Hoosier Drag Radials. Do you have any suspension work? If no, why the hell not? What about track prep?
What "custom" lid are you using? Is it garbage?
I wouldn't put the cam in until you get it running well. As I and others in this thread have asked, what does the car ET on motor? Telling us the spray number doesn't do much good without the baseline ET on motor.
Step 1. Throw that junk *** plate in the nearest garbage can. I've never seen anyone run an impressive ET with that turd. I had one. It worked like complete dogshit.
Step 2. Get a real tune. What wideband is installed on the car?
Step 3. Buy another stock MAF sensor. Ported MAF's cause more tuning problems than they solve. Do you know how much air is flowing past the MAF now? No! Either does your ECU.
Step 4. Figure out your traction problem. You shouldn't be "lighting up" Hoosier Drag Radials. Do you have any suspension work? If no, why the hell not? What about track prep?
What "custom" lid are you using? Is it garbage?
I wouldn't put the cam in until you get it running well. As I and others in this thread have asked, what does the car ET on motor? Telling us the spray number doesn't do much good without the baseline ET on motor.
12-18-2015, 02:44 PM
#16
Ok, let's get this bitch figger'd out.
Step 1. Throw that junk *** plate in the nearest garbage can. I've never seen anyone run an impressive ET with that turd. I had one. It worked like complete dogshit.
Step 2. Get a real tune. What wideband is installed on the car?
Step 3. Buy another stock MAF sensor. Ported MAF's cause more tuning problems than they solve. Do you know how much air is flowing past the MAF now? No! Either does your ECU.
Step 4. Figure out your traction problem. You shouldn't be "lighting up" Hoosier Drag Radials. Do you have any suspension work? If no, why the hell not? What about track prep?
What "custom" lid are you using? Is it garbage?
I wouldn't put the cam in until you get it running well. As I and others in this thread have asked, what does the car ET on motor? Telling us the spray number doesn't do much good without the baseline ET on motor.
Step 1. Throw that junk *** plate in the nearest garbage can. I've never seen anyone run an impressive ET with that turd. I had one. It worked like complete dogshit.
Step 2. Get a real tune. What wideband is installed on the car?
Step 3. Buy another stock MAF sensor. Ported MAF's cause more tuning problems than they solve. Do you know how much air is flowing past the MAF now? No! Either does your ECU.
Step 4. Figure out your traction problem. You shouldn't be "lighting up" Hoosier Drag Radials. Do you have any suspension work? If no, why the hell not? What about track prep?
What "custom" lid are you using? Is it garbage?
I wouldn't put the cam in until you get it running well. As I and others in this thread have asked, what does the car ET on motor? Telling us the spray number doesn't do much good without the baseline ET on motor.
Lol... I like where this guy's head is... he's on point!
12-20-2015, 10:01 AM
#18
I had a nos plate and never had an issue you just have to play with the jetting their recommended jetting is pig rich I went 10.30s with a nos plate on a 150 shot btw once you go higher is when they start to fall off but make sure you check the timing and fuel don't go off wide band check the plugs
12-20-2015, 11:48 AM
#19
I had a nos plate and never had an issue you just have to play with the jetting their recommended jetting is pig rich I went 10.30s with a nos plate on a 150 shot btw once you go higher is when they start to fall off but make sure you check the timing and fuel don't go off wide band check the plugs
12-20-2015, 12:02 PM
#20
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My old car with the NOS Plate, 950 bottle psi, recommended jetting for 150. 11.51@119
My old car with 224 cam and Nitro Dave's under the lid halo dry bar without a jet, but with 650 psi 10.60@128 shifting into 4th!!!
My old car with 224 cam and Nitro Dave's under the lid halo dry bar without a jet, but with 650 psi 10.60@128 shifting into 4th!!!