PICS of NX dual stage controller, NX direct port, Nitro Daves stand alone fuel tank
04-23-2005, 05:03 PM
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PICS of NX dual stage controller, NX direct port, Nitro Daves stand alone fuel tank We were set to dyno this today but bad weather and then Jeremy could not come out to tune the timing retard into the dry stage. So we will have to delay it until maybe thursday. But here are the pics of this setup. Its a trick setup with all the bells and whistles.
At the heart of it is NX/FJO dual stage controller. We mounted ours on the passenger side fender. Its the small box on the top. Just below it is the high current noid driver that is being used with the second stage wet shot that will be progressive. The first stage will be just an on/off dry stage of approx 100-150 hp also controlled by the dual stage controller. Since the first stage is not progressive it only needs a relay and no noid driver box. The setup of the NX controler was very straght forward and the instructions were excellent. Everthing worked as it should with no surprises. From seting up the TPS voltage trigger point...to uploading activation points from the laptop into the controller...it was easy.
To deliver fuel to the direct port we are using Nitro Daves stand alone fuel system. This system ROCKS
. Makes install EASY. Everthing is done for you. Just need to wire up the pump, set the pressure...and connect the output line to the fuel noid. Very high quality piece.
The direct port is the NX EFI 800001 direct port kit. It currently has the 200 shot pills installed. It will deliver up to 500 shot.
The dry setup is the basic NOS 5177 kit plumbd so it can deliver up to 250 shot dry if needed. We are running a Walbro intank along with voltage blaster and FMS 42 lb green top injectors. Good enough for 725 total rwhp through the injectors.
The motor makes just over 500 rwhp on motor and is fairly low compression at 10.5 to 1 or so. It will be very street freindly. Again...no dyno #s yet...but we should see approx 800 rwhp on both stages with the small shot in the direct port and dry both hitting. BTW...its wired so you can select either dry or wet from inside the car. You can do this with the laptop with the program for the NX controller as well..but it would require you to have the laptop with you. So we wired it so we can select either or both on the street with switches.
ALl the install was done by Rev Extreme here in Tampa with Dino and the boys. JUst a lil more tidying up to do but I snapped some pics anyways
Anyways...heres the pics. Just a basic install with noids and wires...nothing too special
And this is the nitrogen push for this sytem. It automatically maintans set pressure using nitrogen pressure from the white NX bottle and uses a dynotune pressure switch to set the psi you want.
Here is a video of the nitrogen push working. You have to listen closely....but in the begininb...he arms the system..and you will hear a sharp CLICK of the dedenbear noid opening and then nitrgen sqeeling as it enters the nitrous bottle bringing up the pressure to what the pressure switch is set to. Then once it reaches that pressure you will here a sharp click again of the noid closing. Thats where the pressure sits until Kyles cracks the nitrous valve....pressure drops just a tad and if you listen close you will hear the nitrogen noid open again to bring the pressure back up. It only takes a second to bring it back up to 1100 psi where the pressure switch is set.
***RIGHT CLICK SAVE AS****
http://www.angelfire.com/apes2/mikek/HPIM0423.AVI
At the heart of it is NX/FJO dual stage controller. We mounted ours on the passenger side fender. Its the small box on the top. Just below it is the high current noid driver that is being used with the second stage wet shot that will be progressive. The first stage will be just an on/off dry stage of approx 100-150 hp also controlled by the dual stage controller. Since the first stage is not progressive it only needs a relay and no noid driver box. The setup of the NX controler was very straght forward and the instructions were excellent. Everthing worked as it should with no surprises. From seting up the TPS voltage trigger point...to uploading activation points from the laptop into the controller...it was easy.
To deliver fuel to the direct port we are using Nitro Daves stand alone fuel system. This system ROCKS
. Makes install EASY. Everthing is done for you. Just need to wire up the pump, set the pressure...and connect the output line to the fuel noid. Very high quality piece.The direct port is the NX EFI 800001 direct port kit. It currently has the 200 shot pills installed. It will deliver up to 500 shot.
The dry setup is the basic NOS 5177 kit plumbd so it can deliver up to 250 shot dry if needed. We are running a Walbro intank along with voltage blaster and FMS 42 lb green top injectors. Good enough for 725 total rwhp through the injectors.
The motor makes just over 500 rwhp on motor and is fairly low compression at 10.5 to 1 or so. It will be very street freindly. Again...no dyno #s yet...but we should see approx 800 rwhp on both stages with the small shot in the direct port and dry both hitting. BTW...its wired so you can select either dry or wet from inside the car. You can do this with the laptop with the program for the NX controller as well..but it would require you to have the laptop with you. So we wired it so we can select either or both on the street with switches.
ALl the install was done by Rev Extreme here in Tampa with Dino and the boys. JUst a lil more tidying up to do but I snapped some pics anyways
Anyways...heres the pics. Just a basic install with noids and wires...nothing too special
And this is the nitrogen push for this sytem. It automatically maintans set pressure using nitrogen pressure from the white NX bottle and uses a dynotune pressure switch to set the psi you want.
Here is a video of the nitrogen push working. You have to listen closely....but in the begininb...he arms the system..and you will hear a sharp CLICK of the dedenbear noid opening and then nitrgen sqeeling as it enters the nitrous bottle bringing up the pressure to what the pressure switch is set to. Then once it reaches that pressure you will here a sharp click again of the noid closing. Thats where the pressure sits until Kyles cracks the nitrous valve....pressure drops just a tad and if you listen close you will hear the nitrogen noid open again to bring the pressure back up. It only takes a second to bring it back up to 1100 psi where the pressure switch is set.
***RIGHT CLICK SAVE AS****
http://www.angelfire.com/apes2/mikek/HPIM0423.AVI
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; 04-23-2005 at 05:10 PM.
04-23-2005, 06:03 PM
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Man thats a nicely put together system, very clean. I like that nitrogen push idea cause it seems to whoop up on the bottle heater. Maybe one in my future I hope.
04-23-2005, 07:20 PM
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My car...
So stoked to FINALLY get to use this, very soon. It's unreal how good of a system this is, compared to the "low tech" 2 stage setup that was on the old set up.
AL and I have been talking about this for a VERY long time, and it's great to see it finally together. For those that do not know, this guy is a nitrous guru - and that's a gross understatement.
After looking at this today at the shop with Kyle (one of the techs who has been working on the car's rebuild) we thought back to when it was towed in, motor partially stripped apart from when it let go. Amazing to see the difference that is now under the hood.
Thanks to Rev X and to Mr Jones, you guy's rock.
So stoked to FINALLY get to use this, very soon. It's unreal how good of a system this is, compared to the "low tech" 2 stage setup that was on the old set up.
AL and I have been talking about this for a VERY long time, and it's great to see it finally together. For those that do not know, this guy is a nitrous guru - and that's a gross understatement.
After looking at this today at the shop with Kyle (one of the techs who has been working on the car's rebuild) we thought back to when it was towed in, motor partially stripped apart from when it let go. Amazing to see the difference that is now under the hood.
Thanks to Rev X and to Mr Jones, you guy's rock.
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04-23-2005, 08:53 PM
#8
Originally Posted by JuicedSS262
My car...
So stoked to FINALLY get to use this, very soon. It's unreal how good of a system this is, compared to the "low tech" 2 stage setup that was on the old set up.
.
So stoked to FINALLY get to use this, very soon. It's unreal how good of a system this is, compared to the "low tech" 2 stage setup that was on the old set up.
.
04-24-2005, 11:39 AM
#10
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Robert...I dont believe its NHRA legal. But this is a street car.....so its all good.
Dan...glad your happy with it.
Dan...glad your happy with it.
Would like to see a vid of the pressure gauge of the nitrous when its actually being used if you ever make one or check it..
I was going to use a pressure noid system for my nitrogen until I watched a vid on one of the Corvette forums that show the pressure spike alot with an electric noid (Wasn't Dynotune) he was using some industrial pressure switch.. Anyway I chose to use a "manual" regulator instead... (The manual reg is big and goddy).. If your electric setup is steady and stable it is SWEET!
04-24-2005, 11:56 AM
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Hmmm...Flipper...do you have a link to the one your talking about? Id like to see it.
Anyways...There are no real pressure spikes in the nitrous bottle as it activates. I am using a needle valve (same type as in an Air cond system charging point) and that acts as a slight restriction and buffers any potential pressure spikes. Its also slows the recovery time down since it slows flow of nitrogen into the nitrous bottle. But there are various valves and orifices you could use to fine tune this if someone where getting spikes. To see the spikes you need a good, large, non fluid dampened gauge. Then go from there. The parts required to cure spikes should be very very cheap. basically looking for the right valve or fitting with a small orifice you could maybe drill out. Start small and work your way up.
But I havent had any problems with this one.
I used to use the manual regulator...and it had its quirks. The #1 thing I didnt like about it was I had to reach into the back to turn it on or adjust it. With this setup you flip the arm switch on the nitrous panel. I personally love using it.
Anyways...There are no real pressure spikes in the nitrous bottle as it activates. I am using a needle valve (same type as in an Air cond system charging point) and that acts as a slight restriction and buffers any potential pressure spikes. Its also slows the recovery time down since it slows flow of nitrogen into the nitrous bottle. But there are various valves and orifices you could use to fine tune this if someone where getting spikes. To see the spikes you need a good, large, non fluid dampened gauge. Then go from there. The parts required to cure spikes should be very very cheap. basically looking for the right valve or fitting with a small orifice you could maybe drill out. Start small and work your way up.
But I havent had any problems with this one.
I used to use the manual regulator...and it had its quirks. The #1 thing I didnt like about it was I had to reach into the back to turn it on or adjust it. With this setup you flip the arm switch on the nitrous panel. I personally love using it.
04-24-2005, 12:14 PM
#12
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Hmmm...Flipper...do you have a link to the one your talking about? Id like to see it.
Anyways...There are no real pressure spikes in the nitrous bottle as it activates. I am using a needle valve (same type as in an Air cond system charging point) and that acts as a slight restriction and buffers any potential pressure spikes. Its also slows the recovery time down since it slows flow of nitrogen into the nitrous bottle. But there are various valves and orifices you could use to fine tune this if someone where getting spikes. To see the spikes you need a good, large, non fluid dampened gauge. Then go from there. The parts required to cure spikes should be very very cheap. basically looking for the right valve or fitting with a small orifice you could maybe drill out. Start small and work your way up.
But I havent had any problems with this one.
I used to use the manual regulator...and it had its quirks. The #1 thing I didnt like about it was I had to reach into the back to turn it on or adjust it. With this setup you flip the arm switch on the nitrous panel. I personally love using it.
Anyways...There are no real pressure spikes in the nitrous bottle as it activates. I am using a needle valve (same type as in an Air cond system charging point) and that acts as a slight restriction and buffers any potential pressure spikes. Its also slows the recovery time down since it slows flow of nitrogen into the nitrous bottle. But there are various valves and orifices you could use to fine tune this if someone where getting spikes. To see the spikes you need a good, large, non fluid dampened gauge. Then go from there. The parts required to cure spikes should be very very cheap. basically looking for the right valve or fitting with a small orifice you could maybe drill out. Start small and work your way up.
But I havent had any problems with this one.
I used to use the manual regulator...and it had its quirks. The #1 thing I didnt like about it was I had to reach into the back to turn it on or adjust it. With this setup you flip the arm switch on the nitrous panel. I personally love using it.
Why were you having to adjust your manual reg? I set mine and forget it.. Leave it on 24/7 and use an electric bottle opener..
04-24-2005, 12:17 PM
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My manual regulator wasnt all that great and it was old. It had a tendancy to creep a bit.
That and I used to use it on a totally dry shot...so I also used to raise or lower the pressure to adjust RWHP. A 300 shot dry would be way different at 950 vs 1200. So I used it like that too.
That and I used to use it on a totally dry shot...so I also used to raise or lower the pressure to adjust RWHP. A 300 shot dry would be way different at 950 vs 1200. So I used it like that too.
04-24-2005, 12:22 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
My manual regulator wasnt all that great and it was old. It had a tendancy to creep a bit.
That and I used to use it on a totally dry shot...so I also used to raise or lower the pressure to adjust RWHP. A 300 shot dry would be way different at 950 vs 1200. So I used it like that too.
That and I used to use it on a totally dry shot...so I also used to raise or lower the pressure to adjust RWHP. A 300 shot dry would be way different at 950 vs 1200. So I used it like that too.
How much have you used your push system set up this way?
04-24-2005, 12:35 PM
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ALOT!
Mostly on the street. Once its set...its great. But yours sounds just as good since you have a good regulator and a noid. Really the only difference would be how long of a recovery time there is. Sometimes a regulator can restrict flow and slow that down.
What regulator are you using? How much was it? Any links?
Mostly on the street. Once its set...its great. But yours sounds just as good since you have a good regulator and a noid. Really the only difference would be how long of a recovery time there is. Sometimes a regulator can restrict flow and slow that down.
What regulator are you using? How much was it? Any links?
04-24-2005, 04:34 PM
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A dry kit car with a clear lid, finally! Take some vid of it on the dyno if you could. I have always been curious how the flow looks going into the maf with nitrous injected into the lid. Vid please!
And by the way, very nice setup. I will be going with the same nx controller soon.
And by the way, very nice setup. I will be going with the same nx controller soon.
04-24-2005, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2K2LS1
A dry kit car with a clear lid, finally! Take some vid of it on the dyno if you could. I have always been curious how the flow looks going into the maf with nitrous injected into the lid. Vid please!
And by the way, very nice setup. I will be going with the same nx controller soon.
And by the way, very nice setup. I will be going with the same nx controller soon.
Dyno is planned for this Thursday, and will be video it as well...cuz I personally want to see how the n20 flow thru the clear lid looks too!
04-24-2005, 11:19 PM
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It is an awesome car that should make some great power. Can't wait to throw it up on the dyno Thurs. to see what she will do. Was a fun car to work on. Props to Dan for wanting to push the limits of the car and see what happens.
04-29-2005, 02:34 PM
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Klye told me they had so much nitrous runing through the lid that it was comming out of the front!!!!
Great work guys, saw/heard the car today, and it looks great. Hope to see you at track day.
These are the numbers without a proper tune!! Pretty safe to say it is a total beast, from 4500 rpm and up teh rwhp was over 600, and peaked at 784rwhp.....still nothing compaired to the potential it had, and the 10:1 AF....was rich making it produce less power than is possible.
Great work guys, saw/heard the car today, and it looks great. Hope to see you at track day.
These are the numbers without a proper tune!! Pretty safe to say it is a total beast, from 4500 rpm and up teh rwhp was over 600, and peaked at 784rwhp.....still nothing compaired to the potential it had, and the 10:1 AF....was rich making it produce less power than is possible.
