Anyone want a ORR (nascar) rolling chassis......CHEAP?
02-16-2005, 05:42 PM
#1
Anyone want a ORR (nascar) rolling chassis......CHEAP? Mike Borders is getting rid of his Ford Taurus rolling chassis. DIRT PHUKING CHEAP. comes with plenty of goodies. Drop in a motor and go stupid fast and be as safe as you can possibly be.
http://www.openroadracing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=878
http://www.openroadracing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=878
02-16-2005, 07:03 PM
#3
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Wow cheap. Somebody is going to score a good deal. The brakes alone almost make up for the entire price!
On a little side note: It has a 9"? Boyce didn't you get rid of yours because you found a 10 bolt would be better or something for this kind of thing?
On a little side note: It has a 9"? Boyce didn't you get rid of yours because you found a 10 bolt would be better or something for this kind of thing?
02-16-2005, 07:08 PM
#4
The difference between this "9 and mine is that the one in the cup car is already plumbed for coolers. If I would have had a cooler on mine, that would have prbably made the difference. The cup car is also designed for the use of a "9. An Fbody really isnt. Yeah you can add one to it but the chassis isnt really desinged for its use.
02-17-2005, 09:03 AM
#5
Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
The cup car is also designed for the use of a "9
An Fbody really isnt. Yeah you can add one to it but the chassis isnt really desinged for its use.
Ryan
02-17-2005, 12:41 PM
#7
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While I was talking to the tech @ Moser about bearings, I found out they also have rear ends specifically designed for open road racing. Different axles, carrier, all that crap for heat dissipation & not the extreme torque etc of drag racing like the one you sold me. So it sounds like a 9" could be setup to survive that race without external cooling.
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02-17-2005, 08:26 PM
#8
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A 9" could most definitely be setup to perform well in ORR. Unfortunately it will never perform as well as a 7.5 10 bolt and the reasons are 2 fold.
1) It's too heavy. The faster you drive, the faster the suspension has to react to bumps/dips etc. to keep the tires in contact with the road. The heavier the suspension, the less it's able to do that. This is no small barely noticable affect. It is in fact, an unmistakable, huge affect.
2) It's inefficient. Because of the location of the pinion gear relative to the ring gear it takes more hp to run it, therefore less power is available at the wheels. This inefficiency directly results in a 9" creating much more heat as well.
And since we know that in ORR applications, a worked over 7.5 10 bolt is stone reliable with nearly 800 hp and 225+ mph speeds, the question becomes why would anyone choose anything else ? Marks case is the only situation that I can think of where it makes sense, since his car is doing double duty.
It also seems to me that what Boyce said about the fbody not being designed for the 9" has at least some merit to it. Granted if you bolt one in and the geometry is correct, then it will work. But don't forget that when your tires hit a pothole/large bump etc at high speeds the impact is tremendous. People with 10 bolts can bend suspension components, break bolts, bend/tear brackets ect if they hit a pothole at high speeds. What happens when you ask those same stock sized components to control the impact forces of something that weighs twice as much ? Did you increase the size/strength of your stock mounting components to handle the additional forces when you bolted your 9" in ??
My guess is, and it's only a guess since I've never checked, but I'd say a purpose built cup car will have much stronger mounting components than the stock fbody sizes. At least I hope they would.
1) It's too heavy. The faster you drive, the faster the suspension has to react to bumps/dips etc. to keep the tires in contact with the road. The heavier the suspension, the less it's able to do that. This is no small barely noticable affect. It is in fact, an unmistakable, huge affect.
2) It's inefficient. Because of the location of the pinion gear relative to the ring gear it takes more hp to run it, therefore less power is available at the wheels. This inefficiency directly results in a 9" creating much more heat as well.
And since we know that in ORR applications, a worked over 7.5 10 bolt is stone reliable with nearly 800 hp and 225+ mph speeds, the question becomes why would anyone choose anything else ? Marks case is the only situation that I can think of where it makes sense, since his car is doing double duty.
It also seems to me that what Boyce said about the fbody not being designed for the 9" has at least some merit to it. Granted if you bolt one in and the geometry is correct, then it will work. But don't forget that when your tires hit a pothole/large bump etc at high speeds the impact is tremendous. People with 10 bolts can bend suspension components, break bolts, bend/tear brackets ect if they hit a pothole at high speeds. What happens when you ask those same stock sized components to control the impact forces of something that weighs twice as much ? Did you increase the size/strength of your stock mounting components to handle the additional forces when you bolted your 9" in ??
My guess is, and it's only a guess since I've never checked, but I'd say a purpose built cup car will have much stronger mounting components than the stock fbody sizes. At least I hope they would.
