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Old 03-03-2005, 08:25 PM
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Ok someone is trying to tell me that I would be better of buying a new engine then rebuilding mine (hes a dumb *** of course). Hes also trying to tell me that my engine before it spun 3 main bearings didnt have the torque to pull any kind of good run.
Of course he doesnt believe the numbers it put on the dyno either since the car only ran high 14s & one 14.66.

What I was wondering is if there is anyone out there that can do the numbers to show Crank HP & Torque for me?

Heres the RW numbers
HP 201.7 @ 4500 RPMs
TQ 282.2 @ 3000 RPMs

Now these numbers were the pull before the bearings let lose.
Old 03-03-2005, 08:44 PM
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If it's a stick, multipy by 1.175, an auto x 1.25....12 bolt or 9" add .03 more.
Old 03-03-2005, 08:51 PM
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I guess I should have said it's an 87 Iroc Auto (9 bolt) 3.27 gears.
Old 03-03-2005, 09:13 PM
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The TPI motors can be made to run provided you spend enough $$. They are very torquey (down low) and run out of air by 4500rpm. If I were to rebuild a TPI I would copy the 91/92 Firehawk by SLP. They got some damn good numbers out of it, that is until the LT1 came along. So back to the rebuild question. If I were in your shoes I would do decide on two things. 1. Do I want the original motor more than performance. 2. Depending on #1 if its originality rebuild. If its performance its cheaper to upgrade to an LT1/LS1 with all accessories than to rebuild plus you will have more power than the rebuilt motor (unless you stroke it and spend twice the $). Used LT1/LS1 are available for $2500 everywhere. Go check out the ThirdGen.org site.
Old 03-03-2005, 09:25 PM
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Ellis already knows whats going on with the engine.
Heres whats going on.
The engine was spared of any scaring so its rebuildable
Its going down to Britcoengines this next week & they are boring it over .030 to a 355 & building it to a short block all for $1500
I ordered a LPE cam (ellis idea) & it should be here Tomorrow WOOHOOO.
Heads are still up in the air on what brand We are going to get but since we are limited to straight plugs because of my headers We will most likely go with a set of Edelbrock.

Then the Tranny will most likely go to Ellis to be built to a nice racing/ Streetable tranny

a two step will also be installed.

The come down to the wire & get Drs & new Chromed Iroc rims (not for the DRs)
Old 03-03-2005, 09:31 PM
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Well since your into the bottom end for $1500 do not forget the top. Go check out Scoggin Dickey. They have Vortec heads and intake for a TPI setup that will get you past 350hp easy. GMHPT had a write up about this setup a year or two ago. This setup is WAY better than any other TPI setup except for the SLP Firehawk which is spendy.
Old 03-03-2005, 09:32 PM
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Oh, and to qualify my TPI experience I have owned and modded the following cars:
89 350 Iroc
91 Corvette
91 Z28
91 Trans Am
I know my TPI's.
Old 03-03-2005, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ram-it
Well since your into the bottom end for $1500 do not forget the top. Go check out Scoggin Dickey. They have Vortec heads and intake for a TPI setup that will get you past 350hp easy. GMHPT had a write up about this setup a year or two ago. This setup is WAY better than any other TPI setup except for the SLP Firehawk which is spendy.
OOPS I forgot to say it has the HRS (Holley Stealth ram) thats why it was up at bloods getting computer work done. because the fuel maping needed to be the 89 spects.
Old 03-03-2005, 09:48 PM
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I just wanted to information on doing the Crankshaft HP & Tq from the numbers I had from Bloods.

They said nearly 400 Ft Lbs of tq.
Old 03-03-2005, 10:42 PM
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Sorry, I got carried away.
Old 03-03-2005, 10:46 PM
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Actually Her Stealth ram puts her into LT1 teritory

With a well built bottom end and a good set of heads(can't use Vortec's) she should easily make 320+ RWHP Lanna ran 13.40s with just the cam I picked out here and some porting on the intake parts. THis setup is a holley Tunnel ram with a EFI top if you have not ran across one Should pull to 6,000 with ease and make HP the whole way.

IN the very begining Tammy I said you should look at Crate motors. for around $3k you would have some thing nice to bolt your intake to. Given what you were looking for THIS is the route I personaly would have taken.


As far as upgrading to a LT1 or ls1? The LT1 is a bolt in and then a expensive harness and new headers. And the you are still stuck with a stock motor.

The LS1 would be the natural choice but you would need to add a good $2k to the bill for fabrication work. every thing would have to be made. I am sure John B could explain more about this

So here we are. Well looking at the fact you are all ready invested in this direction I would continue on. As I ahve pointed out many times what ever you do, DO NOT skimp on the heads. THAT is where the power is, make a mistake here and regret the whole project.

I hope this add's some fuel to your fire.

Good luck!
Old 03-03-2005, 11:09 PM
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Why would you need new headers? Just curious cause I'm thinking of putting one in my truck, I know they have the standard Chevy bolt pattern are the ports different? My experience with standard SB is almost 15 year old at this point (damn I'm getting old)

Again just curious isn't there a place that adapts the LT1 manifold to fit standard chevy? Would think about that too if my the 89 TBI heads weren't near the top of shitty factory heads.....
Old 03-03-2005, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
As I ahve pointed out many times what ever you do, DO NOT skimp on the heads. THAT is where the power is, make a mistake here and regret the whole project.

I hope this add's some fuel to your fire.

Good luck!
This is probably the best advise anyone can give, everything else is just a supporting cast.
Old 03-03-2005, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
Why would you need new headers?
Again just curious isn't there a place that adapts the LT1 manifold to fit standard chevy? Would think about that too if my the 89 TBI heads weren't near the top of shitty factory heads.....
Headers??? Not getting new headers already have a set of Edelbrock headers lol

Heads is because I dont want to spend just 600 on port & polishing my heads when I can go out & get better flowing heads for the only 600 more (1200).

Ellis Email Dan Fastzhawk@HPIV.net & let him know what we have been talking about maybe you can convince him. Hes the one that would like to keep it really cheap. I just want to get the car back on the road with out it taking another year.

Hopefully I can get a full time nice playing job & have things wrapped up in the next couple months.
Old 03-03-2005, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv

IN the very begining Tammy I said you should look at Crate motors. for around $3k you would have some thing nice to bolt your intake to. Given what you were looking for THIS is the route I personaly would have taken.
Ellis Dan was looking at Crate engines that were going to run us well in to the 5k - 7k instead of a good 3k engine. He was looking at the Ramjet or something like that. My one Demand from him was we kept the HRS because its something we already had & that we kept the over all stock look of the car (the Ramjet I would have needed a new hood & new gages & new stuff)
He really wants this car to be a fast race car when I just want a nice fun fast street car with out a roll cage because of the kids, Something My boss would not bitch at me because its scaring the horses.
Old 03-03-2005, 11:21 PM
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Actually the header question was based on putting an LT1 in your car.

So I'm not really understanding what you are wanting. Do you want opinions on what you are doing?

First IMHO unless you are poor it is stupid to spend only 1500 on a shortblock you are going to put 1200+ heads and stealth RAM on. YES for HP you need to get heads. But 1500 that is decent pistons and OK rods plus machine work and assembly, I'm guessing your not getting all the goody parts. I'm assuming your paying "retail" for all this so 1500 is pretty damn cheap.

Thats why everyone was telling you to go with a crate more for 3-4 K you could of picked up a solid foundation to put your trick Intake and EFI system on.
Old 03-03-2005, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
Why would you need new headers? Just curious cause I'm thinking of putting one in my truck, I know they have the standard Chevy bolt pattern are the ports different? My experience with standard SB is almost 15 year old at this point (damn I'm getting old)

Again just curious isn't there a place that adapts the LT1 manifold to fit standard chevy? Would think about that too if my the 89 TBI heads weren't near the top of shitty factory heads.....

We would find that in this statement

Originally Posted by Tammy
Heads are still up in the air on what brand We are going to get but since we are limited to straight plugs because of my headers We will most likely go with a set of Edelbrock.
LT1 are angle plug
Old 03-03-2005, 11:26 PM
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OHHHHHHH thank you thought I was loosing it Would help if I REALLY read **** huh? Its been a long week year end is kicking my ***...
Old 03-04-2005, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAWicked1
Actually the header question was based on putting an LT1 in your car.

So I'm not really understanding what you are wanting. Do you want opinions on what you are doing?

First IMHO unless you are poor it is stupid to spend only 1500 on a shortblock you are going to put 1200+ heads and stealth RAM on. YES for HP you need to get heads. But 1500 that is decent pistons and OK rods plus machine work and assembly, I'm guessing your not getting all the goody parts. I'm assuming your paying "retail" for all this so 1500 is pretty damn cheap.

Thats why everyone was telling you to go with a crate more for 3-4 K you could of picked up a solid foundation to put your trick Intake and EFI system on.

I am doing this on my budget which is less then 800 a month which will end any time now. ( thats not including taking the money out for paying bills & lunch money for my kids or thats about 400-500 a month that went in to savings if that acouple times it was only 50 because of xmas & kids needing school clothes) So Yess I am doing this basiclly poor. It has taken me almost 6 months now to save up 2400. Right at this monent in time I have 1900 for the engine work, as I said which is including boring out the engine to make it a 355, & all the other work. I called several shops around here & they were quoting me well over 2k for the engine work & britco cut us a deal because they also did my brother in laws engine (made some minor mistakes fixed it for him for free & now giving us a good deal) The cost is whole sale.

I Mean When we took the car in to Bloods it was only going to cost us 1k to get the computer work done on it. It ended up costing us 2k (including the trailer & gas to haul the car home ) which Dan put on the credit card & used our Property taxes to pay for it since it was My birthday that they called us.
Old 03-04-2005, 12:14 AM
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Oh yes you can use Vortec heads on the L98. You have to get a new base plate which Scoggin Dickey makes. With the Vortec heads and new base plate will out perform damn near any other combo out there for the same dollars.


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