vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Got car tuned now when as soon as car sees boost car bucks and kinda cuts out totally and I backed off throttle? Car ran great on dyno, is running a little rough at idle and wont get into boost at all without falling flat on face. I watch wideband and was at 11:1 and almost getting out of vacuum and when turbo hit 0 psi and started to ease up pop kinda like blowing off a boost hose mid pull. Any help would be appreciated. Running a 1bar Maf tune. Could maf be on its way out? replaced MAP today with another 1 bar no luck. checked MAP, even put a nipple on VAC port on back of intake for AC. Car sees good vacuum at idle. Any help would be appreciated.

charlie c5

iTrader: (6)

This may sound stupid but it happened to me on my turbo car. Check the intake piping. You might have had a blowout. I would also suggest since your a boosted car Id have your car tued for speed density, then you wont have anymore mass air (p0101) issues.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

checked piping when I got home with car today no leaks there. will proceed with new intake gaskets and cleaning maf tommorrow.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

cleaned MAF today, capped hvac port on intake, checked brake booster hose, shot carb cleaner around whole intake heavily car didnt miss a beat any more then it does. In first and second it bucks pretty bad and starts breaking up bad when rolling into throttle heavy, also replaced MAP sensor and made sure it was snug and tight. Im at a loss other then a tuning issue at the moment. Here are the MAP and MAF values at idle PLEASE HELP!! Could it be a bad o2 or exhaust leak at manifold my AIR block off plate on passenger side seems to smoke a little under engine pressure.

Map -14in/hg at idle
Maf 1.63-1.68 at idle

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

really having a bad time. No one has any ideas. Any help would be appreciated as 10k worth of work is just sitting and not working.

racecar

Borrow a MAF from a similar car and try it out. If that does not help, Get a GM service manual and follow the 0101 troubleshooting. If it is blowing a 0101, fix the source of the code first.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

I have all 3 manuals from the dealer. Have run down p0101 per factory but in a boosted punched and stroked ls1 there are many possibilities that could make this code happen. I know the maf is not jiving with the Map tables, this could be because intake leak, leaking exhaust manifold throwing off o2's, tune, fuel pressure, vacuum leak for hoses to BOV and Wastegate, even boost controller, my evap purge solenoid is still intact with intake manifold so if its open could be a leak from the solenoid all the way back to the polly tubing and fitting by tank. But I have already done most everything I can think of besides I cant monitor everything my tuner can. I believe Im going to buy EFIlive and just so I can log all my driving. At least it would help me to find a problem. Seeing tuner Monday or Tuesday to sort out the maf tune. But believe Im going to bite the bullet and pay more so I can get the SD tune and be done with it.

racecar

Wow, this sounds complex with all of the mods and boost. I have always done all of my tuning because I want to know what is going on inside there. Yes, buy HP or EFI and learn how to scan/tune, then you will know what to change, and you can see how it works, or does not work. You have identified several known problems (intake leak, exhaust leak etc.) ,when my engine has performance problems problem, I fix all of the known issues first. Sometimes the smallest problem can cause a bigger one. Sometimes one problem that sets a code, will trigger two other codes. Good luck.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Despite all of your mods P101 is not that hard to troubleshoot. Your car is almost ten years old and has been modified. I presume the car did run fine on the dyno and on the way home as you stated so, let's rule out the tune for now. Disconnect the battery and pull the pcm connectors and MAF connector and check the wiring btw pcm, and MAF connnector. Pay close attention the MAF connector where the wires go into the connector. An intermittant connection here is common.

I applaud anyone who wants to buy their own software and get involved with their car-it's a beautiful thing, it's like learning another language. Starting this venture on a broke forced induction car is going to be very challenging. Considering you already have 10k in this setup that does not work, throwing down another ~1k on WBO2 + Tuning software in search of fixing it might not be the quickest or least frustrating way to do this. Not trying to be an *** but I can sense your frustration.

racecar

Doc, You are right, this is not a good situation to start learning how to tune. You need a car that runs right to establish a base line, then you have something to compare to.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

not planning on tuning myself fully. I want to purchase for logging reasons that way I know where to look when things go wrong. I will get the full tune right from my tuner. Then can start to learn from there

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

Remember, if it's not a loaded dyno, you won't be seeing the level of boost you'll see on the street. My rear-mount car used to do fine on the dyno, and then blow off charge pipes every time I took it down the road. Ditch the worm gear clamps if you have them, and use only t-bolt with GOOD couplers.

...and for the love of God...SD 2-bar that bitch. That solves the MAF issue, and makes it so much easier in the long run.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Did they recal the maf? if you do not do this when the car hits a certain amount od boost it will act like its hitting the rev limiter.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Tuners got the flu so I didnt get to see him yesterday. We want to get it back running right on the MAF then might go to a 2 bar SD.. I have the piping to replace the MAF and the 2 bar map waiting. He said SD is a pain not only form a tuning standpoint, but also I live by the water and the weather is constantly changing and said it might drive better on MAF then SD. My worries are if Im having this many bugs with only 8psi what is going to happen when I go to 14-15psi and turn my methanol kit on. I believe then might be time to go SD as the capabilities of the MAF are maxed at that point.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Tuners got the flu so I didnt get to see him yesterday. We want to get it back running right on the MAF then might go to a 2 bar SD.. I have the piping to replace the MAF and the 2 bar map waiting. He said SD is a pain not only from a tuning standpoint, but also I live by the water and the weather is constantly changing and said it might drive better on MAF then SD. My worries are if Im having this many bugs with only 8psi what is going to happen when I go to 14-15psi and turn my methanol kit on. I believe then might be time to go SD as the capabilities of the MAF are maxed at that point.

Also have a few worm gears but the setup is mostly Tbolts. I will be ordering the correct sizes probably today. Last thing I want to do is get out and have to fix blown off piping.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

either you misunderstand him or... A MAF has no place on your built motor/turbo car, and it certainly isn't any easier to get running right like that. All time spent calibrating the MAF is wasted since it will be gone in SD. The MAF will max out very early and then he will cheat in fuel in the PE. The irony of what you posted is, PE hacks are STATIC; you always get the same amount of fuel. Do you think you need the same amount of fuel when it's 50degF outside as you do when it's 90degF...because that's what you get on a hacked MAF tune.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

I really want to go to an SD tune but I guess the tuner doesnt want to go thru the extra trouble yet till we get the kinks worked out and since I already have a MAF tune. He has been nice and seems to know what he is doing and has come well recommended. He definately isnt running from the problem and is sticking by me to help. I was going to have Mike Norris tune it originally but he moved. Then again with these goals Mike Norris even said keep the MAF and there isnt another reputable tuner in a day drive. We are talking 500 miles+ sucks. I think tuner just wanted to get it running right on MAF again with the 8psi so I can put some miles on the fresh engine and we can make sure all the mechanical mistakes or issues are gone first. Then we will go SD. He said he could do an SD tune would take most of a day to get it right, and he did mention it would be better for the vehicle in the higher boost levels. Guess Ill get it running right and put 500 miles on it or so. Then go for a full SD tune with methanol activated and my boost controller set for 8psi on the spring and 14-15psi on the controller. I definately agree the SD is the way to go but for now I have paid for a MAF tune and am stuck till I get it running right and have a choice and money to go SD. I also have to get a new wastegate spring as when I did the build I went up two sizes to a 8psi and Im only getting 5psi out of it. So right now the controller is on and tuned to 8psi. Im going to get an 11psi spring to compensate for the 3psi the motor is probably gobbling up

Matt@SNLPerformance

iTrader: (1)

You are probably exceeding the values in your Maximum Delta Airflow-P0101 Error table. Basically this table checks your MAF against your speed density calcullated airflow and if it's more than what is in the table the PCM will think that your MAF is bad. Get your tuner to do more work on your VE table and the error should stop. But since you are boosted and already using a custom OS you should just get a 2 or 3 Bar MAP (depending on your boost level) and have him do a full SD tune.

vipvegas

iTrader: (13)

Here is my question as I already have $450 into a tune and tuner will work with me here. But Im sure he is going to want another tune fee to go SD. Is this goal possible with a MAF, if so it will get me by SAFELY for a few months till I can do a few things I want before going fully retuning SD. I want to add a set of worked 243's, new rearend, and rpm stg5 t56 and up the boost to 14-15psi with SD. Right now car is a street only car and will not see drag races but punches and rolls.

So with a MAF tune will I be OK and able to get by with 11-13psi with methanol? I want to get the most out of the MAF tune but not hurt the car by pushing limit on the tune. 11-13psi should put me on the closer side of 650-700hp as long as tune is on.

I know SD is the way to go and I built the shortblock to handle more power down the road and to build upon as I only wanted to do it once. So if I can get by on MAF and get the tune right that I just paid for. I will save do the heads and then tune SD. As I only want to pay for tuning least amount as possible, as if I do the heads in the upcoming months I will have to tune again.

What are the MAF's limitations or what are other similar vehicles making with a maf??

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

Why would you spend 10K$ in mods and then cheap out on the tune? "Just getting by" is nothing but a recipe to a blown motor when it comes to alot of boost and tuning.