What is trouble code PO154?
01-12-2004, 10:09 AM
#6
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Pace Setter supplied wire to extend the sensor wires. I spliced in these wires and soldered them together.
I'll take a look at the wires but don't see that I have done anything wrong as far as my splicing and soldering.
I'll take a look at the wires but don't see that I have done anything wrong as far as my splicing and soldering.
01-12-2004, 10:12 AM
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Insufficient activity could be a problem with the heater circuit. If you have a scanner you need to monitor the sensor voltage while in closed loop.
The EFILive charts would be nice so you could compare the sweeping of B1S1 and B2S1..
Since you did headers check and double check the wiring harness and connectors to the sensor. Look at the pins and make sure they're not pushed in.
If everything looks good you may need a new sensor.. You could always swap B1 with B2 and see if the code move to the other bank just be be sure before you spend $80 on a new sensor.
The EFILive charts would be nice so you could compare the sweeping of B1S1 and B2S1..
Since you did headers check and double check the wiring harness and connectors to the sensor. Look at the pins and make sure they're not pushed in.
If everything looks good you may need a new sensor.. You could always swap B1 with B2 and see if the code move to the other bank just be be sure before you spend $80 on a new sensor.
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01-12-2004, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002WS6_MN6
Insufficient activity could be a problem with the heater circuit. If you have a scanner you need to monitor the sensor voltage while in closed loop.
The EFILive charts would be nice so you could compare the sweeping of B1S1 and B2S1..
Since you did headers check and double check the wiring harness and connectors to the sensor. Look at the pins and make sure they're not pushed in.
If everything looks good you may need a new sensor.. You could always swap B1 with B2 and see if the code move to the other bank just be be sure before you spend $80 on a new sensor.
The EFILive charts would be nice so you could compare the sweeping of B1S1 and B2S1..
Since you did headers check and double check the wiring harness and connectors to the sensor. Look at the pins and make sure they're not pushed in.
If everything looks good you may need a new sensor.. You could always swap B1 with B2 and see if the code move to the other bank just be be sure before you spend $80 on a new sensor.
01-12-2004, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Splicing into the sensor leads is not a good thing to do. It is better to extend the wiring harness on the car if you are not going to buy extensions.
The SES light came back on after I cleared it. Engine runs terrible. Misses bad.
Last edited by Larry; 01-12-2004 at 11:55 AM.
01-12-2004, 12:03 PM
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Splicing will work.. A quality soldered spliced connection will work fine..
Notice the word quality.
Make sure you use some shrink wrap to protect the connection.
Notice the word quality.
Make sure you use some shrink wrap to protect the connection.
01-12-2004, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002WS6_MN6
Splicing will work.. A quality soldered spliced connection will work fine..
Notice the word quality.
Make sure you use some shrink wrap to protect the connection.
Notice the word quality.
Make sure you use some shrink wrap to protect the connection.
01-12-2004, 03:31 PM
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O2s need outside air to reference to.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
01-12-2004, 04:33 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Team ZR-1
O2s need outside air to reference to.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
01-12-2004, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Team ZR-1
O2s need outside air to reference to.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
The O2 wires are special so they have a airchannel inside them to get that outside air at the O2 connector where temps are cooler.
Without that the O2 cannot function correctly.
Splicing will cause O2s to act weird and false readings to PCM so I would not spice at all.
I'll give it a test drive next and see what Auto Tap says.
