Runs like poo after 228r cam install
#1
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Runs like poo after 228r cam install
Hey guys I swapped an unknown running LS1 in my Miata, t56 from a 99 camaro z28 with 80,000 miles on it.
Tore the motor apart and installed the following:
Ls2 chain
TSP 228r cam kit with 7.400 push rods and double valve springs.
NEW Ls6 intake with NEW throttle body, NEW injectors and NEW Iac motor and tps.
Anyway, the Engine runs, idles pretty decent but it seems like the more it is running the crappier it runs?
Of course, it needs a tune, but my question is how can I make sure it isn't a engine/sensor problem before taking it to the tuner?
Maybe it needs an idle learn or maybe a crank relearn? Educate me!
I have no codes stored in the PCM.
And compression is 180psi across the board.
Anything I should do before taking it to the tuner? Thanks!
Tore the motor apart and installed the following:
Ls2 chain
TSP 228r cam kit with 7.400 push rods and double valve springs.
NEW Ls6 intake with NEW throttle body, NEW injectors and NEW Iac motor and tps.
Anyway, the Engine runs, idles pretty decent but it seems like the more it is running the crappier it runs?
Of course, it needs a tune, but my question is how can I make sure it isn't a engine/sensor problem before taking it to the tuner?
Maybe it needs an idle learn or maybe a crank relearn? Educate me!
I have no codes stored in the PCM.
And compression is 180psi across the board.
Anything I should do before taking it to the tuner? Thanks!
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When I'm saying runs like crap let me explain in a little more detail.
After finally putting the car together, when I started it, it idled crisp and had awesome throttle response (this is in nuetral with NO Load!), the cam sounded sweet and it smelled like a car without cats. Fast forward to a few days ago and now the car spits and sputters (...again, NO load still since I got no driveshaft axles) and it smells like raw fuel and the engine Hunts for an idle.
I finally got the cooling system bled and I am seeing that the more the motor Warms up to operating temps the worse it gets. Engine does not overheat and has ZERO codes stored in the PCM.
Does it just need a tune?
After finally putting the car together, when I started it, it idled crisp and had awesome throttle response (this is in nuetral with NO Load!), the cam sounded sweet and it smelled like a car without cats. Fast forward to a few days ago and now the car spits and sputters (...again, NO load still since I got no driveshaft axles) and it smells like raw fuel and the engine Hunts for an idle.
I finally got the cooling system bled and I am seeing that the more the motor Warms up to operating temps the worse it gets. Engine does not overheat and has ZERO codes stored in the PCM.
Does it just need a tune?
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hmm...
You mean Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 and 2 oxygen sensors?
The thing is, it acts the same even with the front o2's unplugged.
The rear o2's have been deleted out of the PCM.
You mean Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 and 2 oxygen sensors?
The thing is, it acts the same even with the front o2's unplugged.
The rear o2's have been deleted out of the PCM.
#5
Do you have a wideband?
If the engine is running to lean or too rich, that can be the problem. As coolant temp rises, the PCM commands leaner mixtures, so it makes sense.
The tuner can tell if its a engine problem or lack of tuning
If the engine is running to lean or too rich, that can be the problem. As coolant temp rises, the PCM commands leaner mixtures, so it makes sense.
The tuner can tell if its a engine problem or lack of tuning
#6
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When I fiished my cam install I put my 42lb injectors in (stock tune) and it started and idled decent, but would not drive at all down the road, would buck real hard and die. I put my stock injectors in and it drove fine down the road, and idled alot better. Im guessing the stock tune cant handle the bigger injectors and was fowling plugs. It would backfire some at idle too with the 42's, and smelled like fuel. Thats just my experience though, but in my opinion, you probably just need a tune. Im getting ready to send my computer to frost for mail order tune, so my car will be drivable to take it to get a dyno tune.
#7
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You really cannot run bigger injectors without at LEAST changes the injector table in the PCM. You are probably running pig rich as it is expecting 24lb inj or w/e stock is. Because 42lb is such a difference the long term fuel trims cannot compensate enough. I added PRC 2.5L heads with the TSP 228r and 37lb injectors and my inj and VE tables were quite a bit different. FYI 7.400" may be just a tad short as they were for me. They made my preload on the lifters .050" and cause a fair deal of noise at anything above idle. 7.425" was the sweet spot for me. Of course you should check yourself.
I suggest running stock injectors and never go WOT until you get the injector table fixed at a minimum.
Edit saw that the 42lb's were not from the OP. What size injectors are you running now? IE the "new" ones. If they are stock size then you will probably max them out once tuned.
I suggest running stock injectors and never go WOT until you get the injector table fixed at a minimum.
Edit saw that the 42lb's were not from the OP. What size injectors are you running now? IE the "new" ones. If they are stock size then you will probably max them out once tuned.
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#8
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When it is cold or at least not up to operating temperature you are still in open loop so the O2's are not doing anything. Once you cross over that point the O2's will kick in and try to trim your fuel to 14.7, with the changes you made your tune will be off by a very large amount. Also, the longer it runs, the PCM is trying to "Learn" so it is learning bad data.
Just get it tuned and be done with it. Even a mail order one from someone like Frost on here will get you by until you get to a dyno.
Just get it tuned and be done with it. Even a mail order one from someone like Frost on here will get you by until you get to a dyno.