About to order wideband, have a couple questions
03-10-2011, 10:26 AM
#1
About to order wideband, have a couple questions I am considering the lc-1 wideband kit to use with my EFI live.
I have been trying to search and read but not having a ton of luck here, I hate the search function on this site soooo much.
1) Other than the LC-1 and wideband o2 sensor do I need anything else? Any benefit to getting the gauge kit? I just plan to use this to tune my car, don't really need it all the time...
2) WTF is an EIO? I have read through a few threads and googled and can't find what it stands for.
3) Is there any reason someone looking to do mild beginner level tuning should be looking at more expensive units?
4) Anyone know of a sponsor offhand who offers the best price without it being bundled with tuning software?
I have been trying to search and read but not having a ton of luck here, I hate the search function on this site soooo much.
1) Other than the LC-1 and wideband o2 sensor do I need anything else? Any benefit to getting the gauge kit? I just plan to use this to tune my car, don't really need it all the time...
2) WTF is an EIO? I have read through a few threads and googled and can't find what it stands for.
3) Is there any reason someone looking to do mild beginner level tuning should be looking at more expensive units?
4) Anyone know of a sponsor offhand who offers the best price without it being bundled with tuning software?
03-10-2011, 10:36 AM
#2
I think lc-1 is the most accurate entry level, and great for data logging. I've read they are picky on grounding, and slightly complex to wire, but not too bad. I've made my choice and it's lc-1 too. Id like to find out who has the best price too..
03-10-2011, 10:59 AM
#3
Well I have done my fair share of stereo installs, rewired a ls1 harness for the swap, etc and have 2 friends who are electrical engineers so we should have that covered lol
I see them on ebay for $140 shipped. I would like to meet or beat that from a sponsor.
I see them on ebay for $140 shipped. I would like to meet or beat that from a sponsor.
03-10-2011, 12:03 PM
#4
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I have the lc-1 with hp tuners pro that I was messin with last fall. It seems to be pretty accurate to me. When data logging mine was off by maybe .2 at the most between hp tuners and the guage it came with. I think you will want the guage so you can compare the accuracy with your tuning software for calibrating the two to match as close as possible. The EIO is the connection to the software you have. I have hp tuners and that connection is on the box thats in between the obd2 port and laptop. If you only want to tune and then remove the wideband then you might consider the lm-1 or lm-2 I think they are called. Those are more of a portable unit. The lc-1 can be rigged up to be quickly removed as well, just might take a lil extra work.
03-10-2011, 12:27 PM
#5
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Oh and about the wiring. I found it to be pretty easy and I'm no rocket scientist but electrically minded. I just followed the instructions to a T and it worked out well for me. I did read a lot of posts about what a pita the grounds were. Its been awhile since I ntalled it but if I remeber correctly, I ran a ground wire to the cylinder head for the wbo2 heater ground and connected it to a terminal strip that I bought. I soldered the heater ground to my engine ground on same lug with a loop connecting to a terminal right next to the engine ground. Thats where I soldered all other grounds. I used my unused rear o2 harness for the 12v power. Others tie into the fuse box in the cabin or sig lighter. Anyway, lots of post on different wiring schemes. Thats what worked for me though. If ya go with the lc-1 that is.
03-10-2011, 12:33 PM
#6
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if you have efi live just get the lm2 and a serial cable. You will be so very glad you spent the extra money. Probably one of the best investments i have made. You can also get a rpm clam for the lm2 and log data on it for a carbed car. I dont know about the lm1 but the update for logging with the serial cable is super fast and you dont have to hook up any other wiring.
03-10-2011, 01:29 PM
#7
Well, the only reason I'm considering it is I am in a delima. I am having some 799 heads ported/milled and I want to put them on (possibly cam swap too). I cannot afford to go back to a dyno tune shop, so if I can't figure out another way I can't put the heads on.
The reason I was looking at this is because it is roughly the price of 2-3hours dyno time. It would allow me to, if nothing else, do email tuning with a sponsor here so that I don't have to drive 3-4 hours to put my car on a dyno. Then after I would still have the tool to do future work as I learn.
I am tired of paying people to tune and not be able to go back to fix minor issues like the idle surge I get coming to stops and etc.
Looks like the LM2 is nearly twice the price. I just don't know if it's worth it for the basic kind of stuff I intend to do. Anyone else want to weigh in?
The reason I was looking at this is because it is roughly the price of 2-3hours dyno time. It would allow me to, if nothing else, do email tuning with a sponsor here so that I don't have to drive 3-4 hours to put my car on a dyno. Then after I would still have the tool to do future work as I learn.
I am tired of paying people to tune and not be able to go back to fix minor issues like the idle surge I get coming to stops and etc.
Looks like the LM2 is nearly twice the price. I just don't know if it's worth it for the basic kind of stuff I intend to do. Anyone else want to weigh in?
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03-10-2011, 02:24 PM
#8
TECH Senior Member
Thunder,
If you're getting an LC-1 then, to connect it to your FSV2, you also need any one of the following:
- sLC1 serial cable from TAQuickness,
- null modem adapter (like the one in the pic on the EFILive forum),
- make your own (see diagrams at EFILive forum).
TAQ's sLC1 cable is all one-piece so it is nice.
The null modem adapter joins the FSV2 serial cable to the LC-1 serial cable (with the Tx/Rx wires crossed), meaning that the resulting cable is three piece.
Making your own: you need to understand how to read the diagrams, have basic knowledge of serial comms, be handy with wiring/splicing/soldering.
With the serial comms connection, you don't need the analog signal connections...
i.e. your LC-1 will be wired like this:
- red = switch/fused power,
- blue = vehicle/battery ground,
- yellow = tape off (or analog gauge);
- brown = tape off;
- green = tape off;
- white = tape off;
- black = tape off;
- SERIAL IN = 2.5mm stereo style blank terminator plug;
- SERIAL OUT = FSV2 via serial cable mentioed above.
I'm not sure, but I believe Innovate has gauges that can be daisy chained on the serial port.
The FSV2 lets you perform LC-1 free air calibration from the keypad/LCD... it also lets you see the LC-1 status and view the real time LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR.
And of course, FSV2 lets you log the LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR along with the PCM pids into a file (stored on SD card), you already knew this.
If you're getting an LC-1 then, to connect it to your FSV2, you also need any one of the following:
- sLC1 serial cable from TAQuickness,
- null modem adapter (like the one in the pic on the EFILive forum),
- make your own (see diagrams at EFILive forum).
TAQ's sLC1 cable is all one-piece so it is nice.
The null modem adapter joins the FSV2 serial cable to the LC-1 serial cable (with the Tx/Rx wires crossed), meaning that the resulting cable is three piece.
Making your own: you need to understand how to read the diagrams, have basic knowledge of serial comms, be handy with wiring/splicing/soldering.
With the serial comms connection, you don't need the analog signal connections...
i.e. your LC-1 will be wired like this:
- red = switch/fused power,
- blue = vehicle/battery ground,
- yellow = tape off (or analog gauge);
- brown = tape off;
- green = tape off;
- white = tape off;
- black = tape off;
- SERIAL IN = 2.5mm stereo style blank terminator plug;
- SERIAL OUT = FSV2 via serial cable mentioed above.
I'm not sure, but I believe Innovate has gauges that can be daisy chained on the serial port.
The FSV2 lets you perform LC-1 free air calibration from the keypad/LCD... it also lets you see the LC-1 status and view the real time LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR.
And of course, FSV2 lets you log the LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR along with the PCM pids into a file (stored on SD card), you already knew this.
03-10-2011, 03:04 PM
#11
Didn't realize I needed a cable, I was under the impression the sensor wired into the orange plugs that came with the FSv2, although I must admit I didn't research too much into that part yet.
For $20, I would probably just buy the cable instead of making one.
03-10-2011, 03:55 PM
#13
TECH Senior Member
Flashscan V2, it's the handheld box that comes with EFI Live.
Didn't realize I needed a cable, I was under the impression the sensor wired into the orange plugs that came with the FSv2, although I must admit I didn't research too much into that part yet.
For $20, I would probably just buy the cable instead of making one.
Didn't realize I needed a cable, I was under the impression the sensor wired into the orange plugs that came with the FSv2, although I must admit I didn't research too much into that part yet.
For $20, I would probably just buy the cable instead of making one.
The orange connector on the FSV2 is for 0-5V analog signals (e.g. the analog channels on the LC-1)...
but you will have a more accurate wideband AFR/Lambda/EQR if you use serial comms instead of analog signal, and you will avoid voltage/ground offset errors.
03-30-2011, 09:06 AM
#15
The FSV2 lets you perform LC-1 free air calibration from the keypad/LCD... it also lets you see the LC-1 status and view the real time LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR.
And of course, FSV2 lets you log the LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR along with the PCM pids into a file (stored on SD card), you already knew this.
And of course, FSV2 lets you log the LC-1 AFR/Lambda/EQR along with the PCM pids into a file (stored on SD card), you already knew this.
Does your quote from above mean that I do not need to wire in the push button to activate the calibration since the FSv2 will do that?
I hear that cylinder #7 is the leanest one normally, but my fuel rail is flipped so that fuel enters on the passenger side rather than the driver side. I had already ordered a bung not realizing the kit comes with one. Would it be a good idea to install both or a waste? Not sure if there might be times where logging the "rich" bank might be beneficial. I have no exhaust crossover H or X.
06-07-2011, 08:28 PM
#19
TECH Senior Member
You can bench test the wideband without installing it (recommended prior to installing):
- connect power and ground to your car's battery (use a fused test wire);
- be sure to first tape off the analog outputs (the analog outputs get damaged if shorted),
- connect it to your V2 using a null modem serial cable (from TAQuicness),
- plug your V2 into your OBD-II port (to power the V2),
- on the V2 LCD navigate down the Scan Tool menu, you will find a wideband screen, it displays wideband lambda/eqr/AFR in real time;
you will first have to configure your V2 using the V8 Scan&Tune software (goto Device Settings, the last tab allows you to select Innovate as the wideband);
more details on the efilive forum.
- connect power and ground to your car's battery (use a fused test wire);
- be sure to first tape off the analog outputs (the analog outputs get damaged if shorted),
- connect it to your V2 using a null modem serial cable (from TAQuicness),
- plug your V2 into your OBD-II port (to power the V2),
- on the V2 LCD navigate down the Scan Tool menu, you will find a wideband screen, it displays wideband lambda/eqr/AFR in real time;
you will first have to configure your V2 using the V8 Scan&Tune software (goto Device Settings, the last tab allows you to select Innovate as the wideband);
more details on the efilive forum.