Go SD or stay MAF?
#1
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Thread Starter
Go SD or stay MAF?
My heads/cam car is tuned with a 85mm slp maf sensor. I've been playing with the idea of having it retuned with a 100mm maf and a FASt toys lid since I'm redoing my exhaust to but I've read alot about tuning problems and loss of driveability. Since my car is mainly a track car but is street driven but only in warmer weather. What do you guys think about going speed density on a set up/situation like mine?
#2
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I personally would keep a MAF on the car. Get a 4" aluminum pipe to run from the lid to the TB with flex couplers and then order a OEM LS3/7 MAF and cut a slot in the pipe to install the card style MAF. Now you have a 100mm MAF that cost you 1/3 of the store bought ones!
Then take a look at this link to place in front of the sensor to keep that driveability in check! This honeycomb will keep the MAF readings stable so the PCM can accurately measure airflow.
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
Then take a look at this link to place in front of the sensor to keep that driveability in check! This honeycomb will keep the MAF readings stable so the PCM can accurately measure airflow.
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kearney, NE
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Ive tuned a PRC227 head/SNL v.4 cam/FAST toys 104/100mm SNL MAF LS1 Firehawk and it has ZERO problems with driveability. Banish and other VERY Knowledgeable tuners have proven multiple times that MAF/VE will have better overall power than SD tunes where both can be applied.
Do it the right way and run MAF/VE unless you need to switch to a custom OS for 2bar SD on high boost applications..
Do it the right way and run MAF/VE unless you need to switch to a custom OS for 2bar SD on high boost applications..
#4
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iTrader: (4)
Overall power will not change actually. If the VE is properly tuned it will produce just as much power as the same setup on MAF. Ive done both back to back on the dyno and produce the same power.
The problem is alot of people get the filtering coeficients messed up and it'll cause erratic readings on either MAF or VE calculations and sometimes will give a little different ignition timing at various RPM. But ultimately afr and timing stays the same between both methods then the power output will be identical.
Might as well use all of the PCM's power though and keep the MAF so it has that extra source of input to calculate airflow.
The problem is alot of people get the filtering coeficients messed up and it'll cause erratic readings on either MAF or VE calculations and sometimes will give a little different ignition timing at various RPM. But ultimately afr and timing stays the same between both methods then the power output will be identical.
Might as well use all of the PCM's power though and keep the MAF so it has that extra source of input to calculate airflow.
#5
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Thread Starter
What kind of a adapter harness will I need to convert from LS1 to LS7. All I can find is LS2 to LS7. Would I need to buy a LS1 to LS2 adapter and then a LS2 to LS7 adapter? And I've noticed the aftermarkets have a raised spot on the housing to space it out. How would I make up for that using just the 4" tube?
#7
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What kind of a adapter harness will I need to convert from LS1 to LS7. All I can find is LS2 to LS7. Would I need to buy a LS1 to LS2 adapter and then a LS2 to LS7 adapter? And I've noticed the aftermarkets have a raised spot on the housing to space it out. How would I make up for that using just the 4" tube?
The screen/honeycomb is needed with the card style with either housing you go with. It'll read just fine properly setup.
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#8
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I've all ready ordered a Hitachi LS7 sensor, I've been looking at the spectre 9705 housing and will probably go with it, Its a 4" housing with the bung all ready made onto it for 30 bucks. I found the harness caspers 108125. Now since I'll be using a 4" tube instead of a 100mm will the 100mm honeycomb from the link fit the 4" housing? And which cell size do I need the 5:1, 6:1 etc?