Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Alright so I finally fired up my motor after a year of getting my car together. The mods to the engine are:
243 heads
TSP 228r cam
FAST 102
NW 102
MSD wire
LS7 lifters
Chromoly pushrods
TSP 1 7/8 lontubes

So the initial fire up didn't go so well as I found that the Crank sensor was not getting any power thus the engine was giving no spark to the coils. Bypassed that with a quick hot wire and the motor fired right up. The engine was only had 80K when swapped in and I know was good as I drove it for a few months. With the engine running it idled normally for a bit and then slowly climbed the RPMS from 800 to 1000 then to 3000. I would like to rule out a few things as far as the PCV lines and any air leaks and the IAC valve as it is new.

Along with that the drivers side headers started to glow red with the RPM hanging up at 2-3K

The only codes the car is throwing are low map pressure, fan circuit and engine idles higher than expected (go figure)

Any thoughts?

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Does it have cats on it ?

Sounds like you need a tune

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

No cats straight all the way through but I have it running off the Y pipe. Also the PCM has been tuned for all the parts.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

This thread may help. Read through it
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...0-install.html

HISS

iTrader: (52)

Vacuum leak?

WEIGHTMAN

vacuum leak, would make it lean and high idle 3000 rpm should be a good size leak

Tuskyz28

First thing I'll do is look everything over then I'll call Pat G for a tune. Give Pat a call. He is a great guy yo deal with.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

hve you checked the map sensor to make sure it has a good seal? Also check the electrical connections on the plug and sensor itself. That can cause high idle problems from experience The headers glowing red and high idle arent tuning problems. There is a vac leak or something, somewhere which needs to be corrected for a tune to happen.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Did you drill the intake for the map sensor?

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

Fixed the idle issue, I had a T fitting behind the intake and I believe that was the cause of the idle. It now idles at 850 also no hole in the TB.

The engine is now making a valvetrain noise on the passenger side head and I believe that the pushrods are an incorrect length and the drivers side manifold still glows cherry but not as bad as before.

I removed the valve cover on that side and re-torqued all the bolts to spec again and same noise. I've read that most people run 7.400 pushrods with the TSP 228 cam and in the cam kit I got from them they sent me 7.375. So I'm hoping that is the cause of the noise.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know the technical reason a vacuum leak causes the headers to glow?

RedWS6 00

It would have to be a large vacuum leak. Basically as more air burns with the fuel it burns hotter. The whole combustion area is getting hot not just the headers, running like that for any length of time is going to damage other parts of the engine too, pistons, etc..

NoorJ

It's the PCM's idle speed controller strategy working. It controls idle speed with spark timing and the IAC valve, so with a huge vacuum leak it will idle high, thus the idle speed controller has to work pretty hard. It closes the IAC valve and still sees very high engine speed, so it retards spark which is the "fast acting" torque control. Very retarded spark means a late flame, and you essentially get combustion happening during the EVO event, thus very high temperatures into the exhaust.

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

With the vacuum leaked fixed why would it still glow red around 3K?

NoorJ

you mean still idling at 3k? check where your spark timing is and what your stft's do at idle, but that would mean there is still an air leak somewhere

Z28Dave

iTrader: (10)

No it idles at 850, upon startup the engine will idle at 1200 for about 15 seconds and then drop down to normal idle. But when I rev up the motor past 3K the manifolds would start to glow but not as bad as it was before.

Right now I'm battling a valvetrain noise which I believe is caused by the incorrect lenght pushrods