HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

How much timimg was removed from your tune compared to stock or was timing added?

Another_User

Heh, that's sure the question of the day. I have been going through my logs and yanking timing all over the place. It all appears to be real knock. For some reason during WOT my timing ends up in much different places in the table at WOT. It tries to give me 32-34 degrees of timing sometimes, and it retards the timing, screwing everything up when I get to the right part of the table (28-29 degrees) because it is still recovering from the knock. Sucks. I would like to hear others chime in too though.

What cam do you have?

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Fm13 230/232 585 591 110 +4

ataylors

iTrader: (2)

I would think with that cam you would be adding timing. My 581/581 224/224 114 +4 is still on the stock timing. No KR. Looks like I am going to need to swap injectors as the PW is too high for my preferance

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Mine also but i am getting some anomoly kr at stupid times eg light load constant throtle and things like that. I have + Ltrims and that maybe contributing to it

ataylors

iTrader: (2)

just work the fuel first. Because if you get the timing working for you now, then you will just have to do it again when you get the fuel right

Bink

HumpinSS - what heads do you have? If they are stock you shouldn't need to reduce timing. If they are LS6, or equivalen,t you might try an LS6 Timing table to start with.
I agree with ataylors post above.
joel

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Stock ls1 heads. I am onna try a few more things before i start fooling around with the timing. I think i am geting lean misfires or something liek partly because the I am forcing the computer to add fuel (+ltrims) and i dont think its adequate enough

Another_User

I think that cams do funky things to your g/cyl. Who knows. I will try to reduce the timing a bit. At least then I will know if it is real knock or not.