RCowan

iTrader: (25)

Trying to tune for a TR 227/230 .569 .576 114 cam with PP Stage II LS6 heads and LS6 intake.

I tried compensating for the Lterms by multiplying IFR by 85% but it runs worse than before even after some learn miles.

After it gets a little warm I always get zero or near zero IAC counts when idling at 900. Hole in TB is stock.

Is this a leak or what?

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Since your tweaked your IFR table, that should have brought your Ltrims in line. If your Ltrims are still very high + numbers, my guess is that you have a intake leak. Somehow you are getting unmetered air in if your PCM is telling you your Ltrims are +20 or more. It can take up to 10 or more miles to get a good average of your Ltrims...

If your TB hole is stock size and your counts are at or near 0, that means the IAC plunger is all the way in. Again, you might have an intake leak.

I'lve heard of this trick but never tried it, get a can of carb cleaner and spray a little by each intake port while the engine is running, if your idle goes up you know you have a leak.

Let us know what you find.

Bill

383838

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that is most likely and intake leak. Careful with the carb cleaner trick on the plastic intake, it won't really hurt it but carb cleaner dissolves plastic.

RCowan

iTrader: (25)

Well, before taking the intake off and everything I thought I'd try a few things this evening. I retorqued all the intake bolts in order. I removed the new TB and oiled up the seal well and then re-installed it. I also removed the new IAC and oiled the o-ring well and reinstalled that.

Well now the idle is stabler. The IAC counts are 10-20ish. The Lterms/Sterms are staying lower. (Still in the learn phase now, but i can see they are going lower than before and many are negative)

However.....At idle in Park or Idle sitting still in Drive it is still going +25% Lterms and maybe +12.5 Sterms. Its less than before but... strange. With the improvements i decided to put my VE table back to stock. (I had reduced the low rpm range for idle) and it still idles great but this seemed to have no effect on Lterms/Sterms at idle.

So I'm going to keep it like this and let it learn and then do some runs and look at the fuel cells.

Anybody care to guess why my part throttle Lterms/Sterms might be kinda normal but I can have big fat Lterms/Sterms at idle?

All this is keeping the 85% IFR table and stock VE table.

Also while i have your eye, do I need to adjust PEvsRPM with the IFRs modified like that?

RCowan

iTrader: (25)

Well this morning its doing the same crap again. I guess i'll have to pull the intake but i really see no problems. Vaccum line is on. Brake booster is ok. Intake sits flush both sides. Knock sensor wire goes under the intake in the center on the back. I'll double check my new LS6 valley cover too. I wish that A4 dipstick tube wasn't in the way. Back under the car for that one!

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

any luck on solving it?

RCowan

iTrader: (25)

Not yet. I keep trying to do everything but take the intake off again..especially with that darn dipstick tube in the way. You know how fun it is to get at that bolt. I tried changing idle speeds and VE values but I get the same phenomenon each time after reseting the computer: At idle (and it idles great) the Lterms start at zero and then they rise to about +25 while the sterms go to about +12 and at the same time the IACs drop to near zero.

I noticed lowering the idle to 850 that it doesn't want to go lower really. This makes me think i have a small air leak. I'm going to try an idle of 1000 which should put the iacs at a non-zero value even with the leak. I want to see if it will return to zero at that idle.

I tried the spray trick and got no response from the motor anywhere.

Other observation: It seems to be ok when it's cold and IACs go to zero as it tries to reduce air as it heats up. So either its just enough leak to augment the IAC at cool temps or the leak increases with warmer temps.

Or maybe its just a tuning issue. The off-idle Lterms/Sterms are getting close to zero with 85% IFR. This makes me think its some kind of leak.

I feel like I can idle this cam at 850 or better without this leak. Its very stable at 900 even with the gas burning my eyes. :-D

cgworth

iTrader: (11)

i bought a Lokar tranny dipstick and it is stainless steel braided and very flexible so you can move it. i ended up puting mine by the blower box for my ac . hope this helps. i think jegs has them also you will see them on ebay. their a little pricy compaired to normal dipsticks but worth it

RCowan

iTrader: (25)

Well I fixed it. Removed and reinstalled the intake. There must have been some leak there because its night and day different. Now its idling nicely at 750 rpm

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

DVCrazyCamTAWs6

iTrader: (6)

Having a Simliar Problem, Mine wont idle at all and it misfires really bad when accellerating at any point. bogs & misfires really bad from a stop, have to give about 1/2 throttle just to get it to move anywhere. i've checked all the pushrods, springs, rockers, looked for vaccum leaks in any of the plumbing, taken intake off twice re-did the fuel injectors checked the gaskets and they looked pretty crushed might or could possibly leak. took them out cleaned them. i think it might be leaking somewhere, but would that cause it to misfire really and bog horriably off from a stop or low rpms.


@ a cruise
LTFT B1 % ave. 0.78-3.
LTFT B2 % 25
@ idle
ltft % 25

Codes:
p0300 random misfire
p0108 map/bar high input
po101 MAF range/performance problem

no adjustments change anything
this is a new used short block i dropped in. i blew the other one up. but tune & ltft and air fuel where good on the older motor..
cam pretty big and i got 33degrees of over lap so i'm not building any power down below, so with these added problems it's horriable to drive.

anybody have any ideas. i'm dying here!