TUNE of AFR is BETTER on DYNO or ON THE ROAD ???
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TUNE of AFR is BETTER on DYNO or ON THE ROAD ???
I have already posted something similar on another forum but I count on your opinions here.
I am always learning from the different points of view ......
It seems that there are differences in the numbers (from 12.6 to 13.5)between a Tune of the AFR on the dyno and a Tune of the AFR driving the car on the road according to several people.
Then for a real good tune (safe & effective) IS IT BETTER TO :
- Tune AFR on dyno with fake #? (including a percentage of correction !!)
- Tune AFR on the road with real #? (considering specific intake and aero !!)
I believe that some Experimented Tuners have their own experience to share based on facts about how set up an AFR.....AND THE RESULTS IN THE REAL WORLD.
Christian
I am always learning from the different points of view ......
It seems that there are differences in the numbers (from 12.6 to 13.5)between a Tune of the AFR on the dyno and a Tune of the AFR driving the car on the road according to several people.
Then for a real good tune (safe & effective) IS IT BETTER TO :
- Tune AFR on dyno with fake #? (including a percentage of correction !!)
- Tune AFR on the road with real #? (considering specific intake and aero !!)
I believe that some Experimented Tuners have their own experience to share based on facts about how set up an AFR.....AND THE RESULTS IN THE REAL WORLD.
Christian
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This is a good question. I too would like to know. I plan on ordering a wideband to finish my tuning and I hope that it would be better to tune it on the street. Eventually I will go to a dyno and run it to get the HP numbers.
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A dyno tune with WB is great for dialling in your actual AFR vs commanded. Knowing that, you can road tune the rest. I look for stable O2 voltages at WOT - something in the order of 890mv is good. If they vary less than 5mv you have a good flat AFR curve. Then I subtly adjust timing and PE to result in no logged and audible knock at WOT.
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I disagree with the street tuning. Unfortunately everyone does not have access to a dyno....and especially a good one. You can completely tune a car on the dyno for best power, drivability and track conditions (to a point). There is no way to properly load the engine and tune the car like you can on a steady state dyno.
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Originally Posted by miami993c297
I have already posted something similar on another forum but I count on your opinions here.
I am always learning from the different points of view ......
It seems that there are differences in the numbers (from 12.6 to 13.5)between a Tune of the AFR on the dyno and a Tune of the AFR driving the car on the road according to several people.
Then for a real good tune (safe & effective) IS IT BETTER TO :
- Tune AFR on dyno with fake #? (including a percentage of correction !!)
- Tune AFR on the road with real #? (considering specific intake and aero !!)
I believe that some Experimented Tuners have their own experience to share based on facts about how set up an AFR.....AND THE RESULTS IN THE REAL WORLD.
Christian
I am always learning from the different points of view ......
It seems that there are differences in the numbers (from 12.6 to 13.5)between a Tune of the AFR on the dyno and a Tune of the AFR driving the car on the road according to several people.
Then for a real good tune (safe & effective) IS IT BETTER TO :
- Tune AFR on dyno with fake #? (including a percentage of correction !!)
- Tune AFR on the road with real #? (considering specific intake and aero !!)
I believe that some Experimented Tuners have their own experience to share based on facts about how set up an AFR.....AND THE RESULTS IN THE REAL WORLD.
Christian
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tuning on the street does mix it up obviously, making tuning a little more deceiving at times, but nonethelss it's still more representative of the true operation of the car. If you can help it, it's best to start and complete a tuning process in very similar weather (same day even), that way your fueling and all your sensors are calibrated under as constant road conditions as possible. From there, your EFI should be able to pick up any error swing and compensate for it.
With a wideband there's no reason why tuning on the street should be terribly difficult (Unless you have a cam with a large degree of overlap ). Just sample a large amount of logging data to ensure that the extreme discontinuities are swallowed up by a general mass of similar data. Ie: Most of my logs are 30 min-1 hr. (Might be considered extreme, but the more you sample, the better data you have to work with!) Tune it for the street, which will leave you a bit rich for the dyno... Save the file, and lean out for max HP (and bragging rights! ) on the dyno, the reload street tune once your cruisin again!
With a wideband there's no reason why tuning on the street should be terribly difficult (Unless you have a cam with a large degree of overlap ). Just sample a large amount of logging data to ensure that the extreme discontinuities are swallowed up by a general mass of similar data. Ie: Most of my logs are 30 min-1 hr. (Might be considered extreme, but the more you sample, the better data you have to work with!) Tune it for the street, which will leave you a bit rich for the dyno... Save the file, and lean out for max HP (and bragging rights! ) on the dyno, the reload street tune once your cruisin again!
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Thank you for your answers
It gives me a better idea of the big picture, I understand that tuning is far away of "taking care of only one parameter" and I am continuing my learning curve in this world......
Christian
It gives me a better idea of the big picture, I understand that tuning is far away of "taking care of only one parameter" and I am continuing my learning curve in this world......
Christian