WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

just trying to find the right thing to do and the right way to go to get my idle to calm down a little bit on a colder start and sometimes when running hot. how can i tell what to adjust and how to do it? i am assuming spark and fuel are the only adjustments, which is pretty much most of any tuning, just not sure which way to go

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

to the top

slow

iTrader: (7)

well, its a double edged sword, a correct air fuel is needed to get an acurate idle, then attack spark is the method I have always used.

Ryan

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Have you tried to lean out the open loop modifier? I havent yet, but monitoring the AFR it is RICH at cold start and goes to stoich once in closed loop. Read a post in here or emailed to me about leaning the open loop out.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

yeah i have a little, whats a good afr for cold start, warm the car is set just right on air fuel, so its gotta be the spark there, just dont knwo which way to go

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Try the extremes, add 5-7* or subtract it and see if its any better. Also, just read the other article on Base Spark vs Spark at P/N or Gear, the timing was jumping b/w the two, so make sure all three tables can have a smooth transition, not going from Base of 16* to In P/N of 26* or anything. Fueling, my commanded open loop is 10.63 on the HPT log, not widebanded, but its probably around there. I am thinking of leaning it out to around 13.1, unless someone has a better figure to use.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

yeah my afr is around there too, ill give that a shot, i have tried 3 deg and couldnt tell much from it. ill do something with it tonight and check out those tables and make sure i get the idle closer to the high octane table, thanks i never though of that one

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

anyone else? i have been trying to mess with this and the car jumps around too much when its cold. ive added timing, taken it away. i think i might try to add some more. the open loop fuel may be too rich too so i may take it all away and see what happens with that.

the o2s seems to cause a slight stumble problem when its warm but i think thats because my fuel shot in prop fuel is too high but ill find that out tomorrow.

just looking for what you all have done, so many of us with cams and im sure some of you have fixed this problem, wish i coudl get more help

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

ok so i think i have eliminated the start up airflow as a factor. it seemslike as timing comes up it gets better so im going to try to decrease the timing pulled on start up.

now my o2 sensors are oscillating a little bit slower, but here is the deal, nothign was changed since the other day. could it be that they were just colder than the other day and it may time some time to cruise around until they get hot enough to hold the idle ok? as the dip or peak for long times the idle will stumble a little, just looking for some ideas/input

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

ok looking at some other logs here is what it shows. the timing consistent in them all and this was the jumpies idle. it seems that this idle had a longer time before the short term idle air trims would move around. the others would start up as soon as friction decay stopped. only thing i messed with was the IAT park position airflow. my idle jumped up and down almost 200 rpms and seemed to settle once the idle trims for air started to move around.

now the question is, is there anything i can adjust for that, or that i may have adjusted that could of caused this? here is the list of what was changed in this tune:

-i messed with some adaptive idle settings, just made the time delay smaller but the car was not at 60* c yet so that shouldnt have effected it at all
-adjusted the iac park position airflow, not really seeing any uses for this table as of now, unless you mess with this table for changes in air temp to get the idle trims back in line.

that was all i did that would have effected this. ill try again tomorow, maybe the new tune gave the car a shoke and needs some time to start again? hell i dont know and it seems noone else really does either


CAT3, that start up air/fuel gets added even more from the ect adder, which my car will stay rich until it decays and then i get in the 11:1 for air fuel. i was thinking about taking out the start up enrich or lowering it a good bit. maybe it is getting too much fuel in the system not letting the o2s get hot and almost "flooding" the system being too rich on start up? i dont know too bad you can only get one cold start a day

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

On large cammed cars(low vaccum) fuel seems to be more important than spark. A general bump of 5-10* of spark helps but ve requires fine tuning. At idle a wide band unit will be more accurate than using the LTFT method.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

well what about on start up when the car goes off open loop table, what is a good range to be in for the afr on open loop?