99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

So, is the predefined LC-1 configuration for WB in HPtuners 2.1 correct? I think last year I configured my own using 0 Volts(8.7 A/F) linear to 5 Volts (22.4 A/F) and it worked fine. Is this how the configured LC-1 in hptuners is? If it is, then what do I trust? I watch my logs and the STFTs range from -5 to 4 but the wideband histo shows averages between 20 and 22! What the heck?

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

Are you using the average button or the highest value for the histogram? I am using the predefined configuration in HP Tuners and the STFT's and LC-1 are look good.

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

try to configure it for more resolution, like 11afr-18afr, anything beyond that on either side is way bad, so you don't care how bad it is. however you can use more resolution to get it dialed in perfect once everything is in the ballpark.
do not trust your equipment! go through all settings, make sure they make sense. if you have a gauge, don't trust it exclusively, plug in the outputs to HPT (and configure it so it matches the output on the WB!!) and see if they compare.
if you got both NB and WB, just use it to make sure that you get the stoich the same on both. that's really the only comparison you can make.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

I tired verifying the setting in HPtuners but I can not figure out how they defined their WB settings. Which is why I asked if they are correct. I did user defined configuration for the LC-1 and I am going to use the numbers I used last summer and see if that shifts anything.

I really dont think I should configure one(WB) to match the other one until I verify which one is correct to begin with. So on one of logs that I look at, at one point in time the STFT is -2 and the WB shows 20.1 Would the car even idle at 20.1:1?

Could the WB sensor have gone bad and consistently give inaccurate output? I tried the free air calibration and the same results happened (19-22 A/F) once I put it back in the car and started it up. Is there any sort of control that I can use to calibrate the WB that would give a consistent number?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

My wideband goes rediculously lean at idle and low airflow. Im not sure if this is because of the cam overlap, or perhaps the free flowing duals allowing outside air in, or simply the headers cooling off the exhaust. In any even, my idle shows roughly 17:1 yet I still smell the raw fuel dumping out the pipes. I just tune by intuition and gradually let it lean out to 17:1 at low airflow as per the wideband, cause i have a feeling its not accurately reflecting whats going on in the combstion chambers.

dynocar

Where is your wide band O2 located?

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Driver side rear bung on kooks y-pipe.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

You were probably asking 99whitews6, but since i have similar issues, ill reply too. Mine is right in the X so it reads both banks.

dynocar

We fight keeping the WB O2 hot enough at idle and low RPM cruise with cam and/or long tube header setups all the time. In this example, I would trust my fuel trims and figure out the wide band errors. We often do all of our closed loop tuning with the trims and open loop with the WB. If both banks reading fairly equal, I trust them the most. Normally, if your PCM's front O2s are reading wrong, they read too lean and cause the WB O2 to read too rich due to the closed loop fuel corrections, unless the over rich condition is cooling off the wide band too much and it shows too lean. Then we have two problems. So many say tuning is so easy???

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I think I will trust the trims until I find out what the issue with the wideband is. Note: Last year I had LTs and an MS3 cam and the wideband work great in the same location. This year I have upgraded to a 408 with fast 90/90 combo so I wonder if all this extra airflow is messing something up(although it shouldnt)?

dynocar

I suspect that the Xover pipe is possibly too cool of a location for the O2 with certain combos, especially agressive cams. The Bosch WB O2 seems to be very susceptable to contamination, especially if not kept hot enough. Why can't we buy O2s with different heat ranges like spark plugs??? We mostly use an Horiba brand wide band that uses an NTK ($900) sensor that is indestrutable compared to the Bosch O2 that we use on our Innovative LM1 backup system. Even though the Bosch O2 is much less expensive, our jury is still out as to which one is less expensive in the long run. As far as your O2 working with one combo but not another, welcome to the world of high performance, it's not limited to just O2s.