Stuck in Open Loop Mode? Backfiring? Running Rich,idling high.Help....
#1
Stuck in Open Loop Mode? Backfiring? Running Rich,idling high.Help....
I have a 95 LT1 and one day my car started backfiring. I have a 584" lift cam. STAGE 3 ported heads and intake. LT1 edit tune. 32lb injectors, 255 walbr fuel pump with regulater, Brand new tpi sensor,maf sensor, and optispark distributor, coil pack,ignition control module. My car is still stuck in open loop mode. The only things that I can replace is the coolant temp sensor and the O2 sensors. The O2 sensors are reading right at open and closed loop mode. But the only way to go into closed loop mode is a scanner. my idle is up another 250 rpms and smells like it is running rich. What is my problem. I really need help.
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Di you replace the coolant temp sensor? And did you listen for an intake leak and for a possible valvetrain problem?
Your issues can be caused my many different things, its really hard to tell you what to look for.
Your issues can be caused my many different things, its really hard to tell you what to look for.
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What about the wiring at the base of all those connectors. Temp sensor is prone to getting chaffed just enough to cause problems like this. Wiggle them around while you have buddy watch the scanner.
#6
Alright. I will do that. The only one that I did not replace is the coolant temp sensor and the O2's. I messes with the idle screw on the throttle body right before my car started acting up. I rolled it in because I wanted my idle to go down a bit. It dropped to 700rpms down from 1100 and even when it dropped to 700 it just picked right back up to 1100 again. is the idle programmed by my tuner and could this be the problem. The computer is just trying to get back to the idling point and it cant?
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#8
My car made very impressive #'s on the dyno. I took it back to g-force and my tuner is the one who pointed it out to me that it was stuck in open loop mode. With the power I make on Juice I should be a 10 second car if i learned how to drive on the track a little better. Little over 600hp and 700 Tq on spray bhp and TQ
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Originally Posted by ZEX-Z
Alright. I will do that. The only one that I did not replace is the coolant temp sensor and the O2's. I messes with the idle screw on the throttle body right before my car started acting up. I rolled it in because I wanted my idle to go down a bit. It dropped to 700rpms down from 1100 and even when it dropped to 700 it just picked right back up to 1100 again. is the idle programmed by my tuner and could this be the problem. The computer is just trying to get back to the idling point and it cant?
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Originally Posted by ZEX-Z
So that does have an effect on the computer?
So basically your coolant tamp sensor can be keeping you from entering closed loop. Check out the circuit to the sensor as well as the sensor itself.
#12
Well check this out...... I replaced the O2 sensors and it went into closed loop. But it is still doing the same thing. Backfiring and spitting and popping at 3000 rpms and more. I talked to g force and they told me to check the plugs. I checked the plugs and They were white. So i instantly knew it was running lean. So I went back to recheck the fuel pressure..... 42-44lbs at idle and 46 at wot? No check engine lights nothing. Just a 1350 rpm idle backfiring and the bakfiring is a lean backfire. Could this be my injectors or the tune on my computer. It feels great in open loop mode. I can stomp all over it and drive the hell out of it when its cold but when it warms up and I can keep an eye on the scanner at the same time; the instant it goes into closed loop mode the car freaks out......... Any more ideas? what sensors work primarly in open loop mode?