Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

I just got all my stuff set-up to scan my car. Is there somewhere i can go to give a a quick run down on what everything stands for? I know what everything is but there some stuff i dont know. Like the TDC Err. and i got 3 of um. Can someone guide me somewhere? I read all the stuff on the "help" page datamaster has and it tells me what everything stands for but what are some good and bad numbers i should be keepin a eye on?

ModernMusclecar

short term fuel count should be at 128
Injector Duty Cycle should not exceed 80
O2 MV is your O2 sensor reading, should be in the 900s not important if you have a wideband
AFGS is the flow of your mass air, max is 471 I believe
knock is how much knock your knock sensor is detecting and it will pull timing in the box above it spark retard
IAT is a good one to watch in a boosted car thats the temp of the air coming into the motor

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I think you mean DTC, Diagnostic Trouble Code, open the page and it will have green and red blocks, the reds are the errors, I had one for A/C because I disconnected it

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

well i got these 4 codes...

#21 = TPS high
#26 = CCP electrical fault
#27 = EGR electrical fault (i got EGR delete)
#48 = MAF system fail <----------------------most concerned with. The "demo car", the MAF reading was alwasy changing with the speed of the car and got as high as 220 AFGS. My reading never moved and is sitting at 471.38, lol. Hummm

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

well i found out my MAF was unplugged, go figure. So now that reads fine but still throwin the code. And anyone have a "data err." flashin while logging?

ModernMusclecar

data err is normal, it just means the program lost its connection with the pcm for a split second, happens all the time. If it stays that way for multiple consecutive frames then you have a problem.

96redcamaro

iTrader: (1)

good info

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If I get a free moment tonight I'll look through my Helms book for the #26 code, the TPS volts are prob reading too high for the parameters, try slotting it and turning it down.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

well turns out it took a crap on me. It was reading right ar 5 volts but only at like 20% at WOT. So i bought a new one and see if that fixes it. It also screwed up my trans shift points and firmness so i called my trans guy and he said that the TPS is the most important part for the trans to work properly. Ill let ya guys know tonight.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

actually its the long term count you want at 128. the short term is much more volatile and less important to note.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

well here is what im working with:

Car is almost topped in 3rd gear
5325 rpm@98mph



MAP KPa----------95.6
fuel trim cell-------18
LTerm counts------128-128
STerm counts------128-128
BPW mS------------19.91-19.93
INJ. DC-------------89.4-89.3 (box shaded red)
O2 mV--------------950-959
AFGS---------------258.19

TPS%---------------100
TPS Volts------------4.69

Soark Advance-------36
Spark retard----------0
knock count----------4644

IA temp.-------------84.2

Ls1Bait

^^^^^Yea my knock count always shows like 4398 right when I first start logging....lol

Are you guys saying that the ltfuel trims should be 128 at WOT or while cruising?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

knock count is a parameter that the pcm uses which changes a lot and doesn't really mean that much by itself. knock retard is what you want to look at. If that stays at 0 then you are good and knock count really doesn't matter.

And the lt fuel trim should be near 128 when cruising, that number isn't used at WOT which is more of an open loop mode that uses the PE tables. It will probably be 128 at WOT also but that's because its locked and doesn't change at WOT.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Looks pretty good, the injector duty cycle is kind of high at 89% (why the box is shaded red) so if you plan on any more power mods you will want to look at adding some bigger injectors.

Also, you can't really tell with the narrow band o2s but 950-960 is probably a little on the rich side, you could gain some power by leaning out the wot a/f a little.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok, why would i need bigger injectors on a bolt-on motor? All i got is LTs dumped before axle, 58mm tb and CAI. And ill live with the little rich side since ill be sprayin 150/200 at it. So why do i need bigger injectors already?

And they get that high in the upper rpms in 2nd and 3rd.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

You don't really need them now. What I said was if you plan on any more power mods meaning that if you are going to be doing any more significant mods that will increase airflow into the engine. In that case you will want to make sure that you have enough fuel to compensate it. The normal rule of thumb is to try and keep duty cycle below 80%. Since you're already above that, you will want to make sure that you don't max out your injectors and go lean.

It could also be the case that you won't need bigger injectors but just new ones. If yours are old they can become clogged or not work as effectively which will limit the ability to deliver enough fuel.

If that 150/200 is a dry shot that will need fuel from the injectors, then you will definitely need larger ones. If its a wet kit, you might be ok.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

yea, its a wet kit. I just plan on a 255 pump to help out. So for now with it slightely in the red am i good?? And how high is too high? To where my injectors are gonna pop a lid, lol.

And what about spark advance? I have a adj. timing box so i can set it advanced or retarded for ntrous. What numbers should i pay atention to when im on motor and nitrous.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Well 100 would be the maximum. The number is a percentage. 89.4 means that they are currently running at 89.4% of capacity at that rpm. So at 100% capacity they would not be able to deliver any more fuel. As I mentioned though its typically a good goal to keep it 80% or lower if possible, especially with more extensive mods.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok cool. i get it now. What about the timing stated above i added in?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Well normally you want to retard a few degrees for nitrous. 36 is probably too much advance for that since that's higher than stock and normally you want to go a few degrees lower than stock on nitrous. I would probably wouldn't go much more than 30 on nitrous. It really depends on the car though, what you want to look at is the spark retard count. If that stays at 0 then whatever timing you are running is ok. You can't just look at one snapshot of data though, you have to make sure it is 0 throughout the entire log. The easiest way to do that is to export the log to a spreadsheet and then just scan that column.