romanss

iTrader: (3)

So I am trying to get the car ready to go racing tomorrow, friday (actually today now). Take care of loose ends..etc

I had the car idling for about 20 minutes to seal up the block. I never noticed but the alternator wasn't working. The car stalled. And hasn't started since.

-I charged the battery.
-Watched the program. It seems that I don't get a cam or crank signal on the i/o status screen.
-I don't get spark or fuel.
-I see rpm's 150 while turning over
-voltage stays at about 12V
-setup in AlphaN
-I see the TPS. Although it sits at 18% Could this be it? The maximum is set for 19.5% for idle. It was at 22% when it ran earlier. WHen I couldn't get it started that was one thing I looked at and adjusted as much as I could without drilling.
-the injector pulse width stays at 0
-the coolant temp was at 165

Is there some kind of master reset? Is there something dumb I could be missing.
This happened to me once before, right after I drove it around the block and it was warmed up. The next day, I checked and no spark, then the next day I was going to look at it and it started.

I thought that it might have something to do with it heating up?

Is there a firmware reflash or something? Maybe it's corrupt?

Please help.

Roman

turbo'd stang

You have the power/ground ran to the battery?

I don't think the TPS is your problem.

You've gone through and double checked your configuration/hardware screens?

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I checked all connections. They seem fine.

I wasn't too worried about the software seeing that the car was running earlier.

I just got a computer from wheel to wheel to try. Thanks Kurt and Rich.

I also picked up a new cam sensor.

Hopefuly it'll be fixed soon.

Thanks,

Roman

romanss

iTrader: (3)

Well.........

I put in the new computer. No change.
I installed the new cam sensor. Same.
I traced the cam sensor wires back to the computer. All look good.

Maybe the cam sensor actuator?

I have no idea.

Anyone?

Roman

sonic snake

iTrader: (11)

this happened to me also and all I did was disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes,and then reconnected and it started.I never figured out what caused it.

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I did the battery disconnect thing already.

I will try that again.

I hope it's it, kind of. I don't like the no answer solutions.

Thanks,

Roman

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Doesn't even crank eh. Sure you did not blow a fuse somewhere, is the box getting power?

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I traced all the power wires (battery and switched) and they all seem to be getting 12v.

I also traced the cam signal wires. All seem fine.

I will try the disconnect battery and see what happens.

Thanks,

Roman

kp

iTrader: (34)

If something farts then it goes back to its default programming. You already swapped boxes and put your tune in it and it still doesnt work?

Make 100% sure the ignition wire is getting 12v when its cranking.

When voltage drops current demand goes up, possible it hurt a sensor but doubtful. I have never seen the cam or crank lights flash on mine when cranking FWIW.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

did you check the bs3 harness fuses yet? including the fuse you should have on that +12 when cranking wire

how about your rear battery cut off switch if you have one? that b!tch has gotten me good before.

only time mine ever shut off was after idling for about 3 hours and then i floored it, some drivers etc. overheated and thermal shutdown.

John has also told me about some boxes that had some drivers burnt up from some guy driving around on low voltage.. for you that shoulda changed when you swapped boxes.

if you have anything external tapped into bs3 try unhooking that stuff... could be pulling a signal down unintentionally during cranking

thats all i got. good luck

oh yea.. if its a 6 speed u gotta push the clutch pedal in to start it!

TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

Check the main relay in the BS3 harness. We had one go bad and caused similar problems you are having.

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I will check the ignition wire for 12V.

I have been f'd up with those sig's not working. Thanks for the fwiw.

Roman

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I checked the fuses. A few times.

I honestly thought it was a f'd up box. I was told by boosting I might have f'd it up.

I will disconnect my 2 step and ****.

Still 6 speed.

Thanks,

Roman

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I checked that it was getting power. I will look into this one a bit more closely.

My biggest fear is that the car will be fine when I go to dig in within the next couple days.

Thanks,

Roman

romanss

iTrader: (3)

I figured it out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After 10's of hours, swapping sensors, changing computers (thanks Kurt at W2W), tracing wires testing fuses and relays. Going to the track and then back home.

I let it sit for a week and it f&^%#@@@ piece of **** starts up. Not 1, 2 or 3 times I tried it 12-13 times.

It has to have something to do with heating up. I have had this happen before, now that it is starting. I took for a ride and when I went to start it back up.nothing. 4 days later.........POOF!!!! it starts. I do a dyno pull, it shuts off....no start. Now 1 week later no problem.

Any ideas guys?

I was actually wishing it wouldn't start back up.

Thanks,

Roman

KLHAMMETT

iTrader: (7)

While your cranking is your fuel pump running?

romanss

iTrader: (3)

It ended up being the connectors for the coil packs. There are metal loops, on each connector that need to be grounded.

Roman

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i have no idea what you are referring to? maybe this is an older harness?

oh well at least you figured it out.

romanss

iTrader: (3)

On the connector that the main harness plugs into each bank of coil packs. On each connector there is a metal tab that needs to be grounded.

Roman