02WS6FREEBIRD

iTrader: (4)

I had my car "pro tuned" where they just did the IFR and spark tables, so I bought HPT, set the IFR back to stock, took the "tuned spark table", compared it to stock and a few other cars with similar mods and a Z-06 and came up with my spark table, trying to use as much common sence because I am green to this.

I then tuned the VE using a WB, checking for KR and I was getting some here and there, would take about half off the spark table and blend in, wash rinse and repeat till done, and basically had VE done with no KR.

I then tuned the MAF using the WB, with same procedure and some more KR showed up here and there, used same procedure as above and finished.

Now I have the car back in CL and checking and some more KR has shown up, is this just going to keep happining or have I done something wrong, I think my spark is lower (up top and higher down below) than stock in most areas, is this normal to keep getting KR, or do I have to adjust the IFR to add more fuel or do I just keep scaning and removing spark till finally no more KR?, or is there something I am not doing or should have done?, I have read and read and just dont know

Just want to get ti right!

I will include the latest file after last spark adjustment.

Schwanke Engines

iTrader: (1)

Need to be carefull, the burst knock retard will enable without there being any real knock.

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

You can log your burst knock retard, as well as your knock retard. That may tell you something.
PS.... the timing doesnt look high enough anywhere in your tune to cause knock.

02WS6FREEBIRD

iTrader: (4)

So is burst knock something you do not need to be concerned about, if so why is it logged in the scanner?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

tru but it doesn't show up as KR; just makes final commanded lower than it should be...


Put some GOOD gas in the car and do your logging; it can very easily be false, but you need to know if it truly is false before you dial back the knock sensors.

5.7 ute

If your IFR does not reflect the actual flow rate of your injectors. And you have adjusted your VE table & maf table with wideband feedback, the resulting airmass calculations will be flawed.
The best way to recover from an IFR hack IMO is to start again from scratch with an unmolested tune

02WS6FREEBIRD

iTrader: (4)

I put a stock tune back in the car and after cranking it barely idled and stalled out alot, so I went about half way with the idle settings from what the "hack" tune had and went about half way on his idle spark table because he had higher spark in the idle spark tables, then went about half way with the main spark table and compared it to a Z-06 table and 3 other LS-1 with similar mods (and what a discrepancy in the spark tables!) and kinda came up with a balence, so to speak and the car ran well enough to start the WB tuning of VE, then MAF (most tables including IFR tables at stock values)....did I not do the right?

radkon

iTrader: (2)

A lot of things changed in your method. I would grab a stock tune and load it up and follow this order:

1. Adjust idle to 1000 (for time being)
2. Map the VE table
3. Map the MAF table
4. Adjust timing tables
5. Set idle to "more reasonable" rpm (750~800)