Help with tune and KR
Help with tune and KR I had my car "pro tuned" where they just did the IFR and spark tables, so I bought HPT, set the IFR back to stock, took the "tuned spark table", compared it to stock and a few other cars with similar mods and a Z-06 and came up with my spark table, trying to use as much common sence because I am green to this.
I then tuned the VE using a WB, checking for KR and I was getting some here and there, would take about half off the spark table and blend in, wash rinse and repeat till done, and basically had VE done with no KR.
I then tuned the MAF using the WB, with same procedure and some more KR showed up here and there, used same procedure as above and finished.
Now I have the car back in CL and checking and some more KR has shown up, is this just going to keep happining or have I done something wrong, I think my spark is lower (up top and higher down below) than stock in most areas, is this normal to keep getting KR, or do I have to adjust the IFR to add more fuel or do I just keep scaning and removing spark till finally no more KR?, or is there something I am not doing or should have done?, I have read and read and just dont know
Just want to get ti right!
I will include the latest file after last spark adjustment.
I then tuned the VE using a WB, checking for KR and I was getting some here and there, would take about half off the spark table and blend in, wash rinse and repeat till done, and basically had VE done with no KR.
I then tuned the MAF using the WB, with same procedure and some more KR showed up here and there, used same procedure as above and finished.
Now I have the car back in CL and checking and some more KR has shown up, is this just going to keep happining or have I done something wrong, I think my spark is lower (up top and higher down below) than stock in most areas, is this normal to keep getting KR, or do I have to adjust the IFR to add more fuel or do I just keep scaning and removing spark till finally no more KR?, or is there something I am not doing or should have done?, I have read and read and just dont know
Just want to get ti right!
I will include the latest file after last spark adjustment.
Last edited by 02WS6FREEBIRD; Mar 22, 2011 at 05:36 PM.
Put some GOOD gas in the car and do your logging; it can very easily be false, but you need to know if it truly is false before you dial back the knock sensors.
Last edited by Frost; Jan 3, 2008 at 08:49 PM.
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If your IFR does not reflect the actual flow rate of your injectors. And you have adjusted your VE table & maf table with wideband feedback, the resulting airmass calculations will be flawed.
The best way to recover from an IFR hack IMO is to start again from scratch with an unmolested tune
The best way to recover from an IFR hack IMO is to start again from scratch with an unmolested tune
I put a stock tune back in the car and after cranking it barely idled and stalled out alot, so I went about half way with the idle settings from what the "hack" tune had and went about half way on his idle spark table because he had higher spark in the idle spark tables, then went about half way with the main spark table and compared it to a Z-06 table and 3 other LS-1 with similar mods (and what a discrepancy in the spark tables!) and kinda came up with a balence, so to speak and the car ran well enough to start the WB tuning of VE, then MAF (most tables including IFR tables at stock values)....did I not do the right?
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A lot of things changed in your method. I would grab a stock tune and load it up and follow this order:
1. Adjust idle to 1000 (for time being)
2. Map the VE table
3. Map the MAF table
4. Adjust timing tables
5. Set idle to "more reasonable" rpm (750~800)
1. Adjust idle to 1000 (for time being)
2. Map the VE table
3. Map the MAF table
4. Adjust timing tables
5. Set idle to "more reasonable" rpm (750~800)
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