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" Cheapest " way to get 2001 WS6 to 400+ HP ??

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Old 10-31-2016, 11:45 AM
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Default " Cheapest " way to get 2001 WS6 to 400+ HP ??

Starting with a STOCK 2001 WS6 ...... What would be the " Cheapest " way to achieve 400+ HP ?
And what would be an Average ALL-IN costs to get it to 400+ HP ?

Would the Following 4 things get it there......

1. 1 7/8 LTs
2. Cold Air Intake
3. True Dual exhaust
3. a Tune

OR

Would I HAVE TO get a Cam to get it over the 400+ HP mark ?

Thanks so much for the help
Old 10-31-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Starting with a STOCK 2001 WS6 ...... What would be the " Cheapest " way to achieve 400+ HP ?
And what would be an Average ALL-IN costs to get it to 400+ HP ?

Would the Following 4 things get it there......

1. 1 7/8 LTs
2. Cold Air Intake
3. True Dual exhaust
3. a Tune
Not even close



Originally Posted by dsvtr
Would I HAVE TO get a Cam to get it over the 400+ HP mark ?
Yes


Cheapest overall way disregarding every other factor? Nitrous.

Update your insurance policy for roadside towing however for when it blows up. Anybody wanting to cut cost corners to get to 400hp isn't going to have the car very long. You want 400hp and to keep your car running there is no cheap build, all the methods are all well north of $1000. Why 400hp? Unless your going for bragging rights you should be aiming for a 1/4 time bracket rather than a HP bracket.

Last edited by usnfenix; 10-31-2016 at 12:40 PM.
Old 10-31-2016, 03:10 PM
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Not trying to cut any Corners, just curious

I have an 01 WS6 Automatic right now, and am looking at selling it , and getting an 01 WS6 6 spd.

So just wanting to know what options I have
I've been looking at and considering the SI5 Cam from Speed Inc.

Thoughts ?
Old 10-31-2016, 03:20 PM
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while stock for stock the manual will dyno more and perform better,

a bolt on stalled auto will outrun a bolt on manual at the strip and on the street. My 2 cents, don't worry about the HP numbers and worry about how it performs. Why sell the car and buy another just for a manual? Throw a stall at it and see why everyone under the ls1 sun says the same. Get a stall, hands down should be the first real mod for an auto not including easy bolt ons and free mods. Autos also are easier on the notorious 10 bolt and buy you more time. Manuals have been known to break the rear end on stock HP
Old 10-31-2016, 03:45 PM
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Never knew all this ,
Thank you for sharing

Another thing with the 6 spd. ,
It only has 70,000 miles on it
It's owned by the same owner who bought it new in 2001
And they have always kept it Garaged

My WS6 has clear coat peeling in about 6 places, driver side window won't roll down, the Headlight motor makes a grinding sound when you turn the Headlights off, it has 170,000 miles on it ( so 100,000 more miles then this 6 spd. one has )

Plus the 6 spd. is in immaculate condition, both inside and out

Not sure what I could get for mine ( Realisticly ) ..... $3,500 ?
Old 10-31-2016, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Starting with a STOCK 2001 WS6 ...... What would be the " Cheapest " way to achieve 400+ HP ?
And what would be an Average ALL-IN costs to get it to 400+ HP ?

Would the Following 4 things get it there......

1. 1 7/8 LTs
2. Cold Air Intake
3. True Dual exhaust
3. a Tune

OR

Would I HAVE TO get a Cam to get it over the 400+ HP mark ?

Thanks so much for the help
400RWHP or 400 fly wheel hp?
Big difference...
Also you really need to use the search feature and read the stickies, it would answer all these questions you have had.
Also if you already didn't know the WS6 does NOT make any more power over a base V8 TransAm/Formula regardless what what GM "rates" them at. And even if they did it would totally be a moot point if you want to swap out the exhaust anyway seeing thats the only major difference engine-wise.

Please read:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-guide.html
Old 11-01-2016, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JD_AMG
400RWHP or 400 fly wheel hp?
Big difference...
I was about to say the same thing. 400 crank is a realistic goal with just bolt ons. Hell I made 333rwhp (380 crank hp assuming 15% loss) on the dyno with just a lid and catback. Now with headers, duals and a frost tune the car feels completely different, I'd guess 350-360rwhp (414 crank hp).
Old 11-01-2016, 09:56 PM
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Thank you for those Sticky's , I'm reading them as we speak

If I end up getting this 6 spd. WS6 ,
I plan to do 1 7/8 LTs , Cold Air Intake, True Duals ( with Electric Cut-outs , and a Tune )
Old 11-01-2016, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Thank you for those Sticky's , I'm reading them as we speak

If I end up getting this 6 spd. WS6 ,
I plan to do 1 7/8 LTs , Cold Air Intake, True Duals ( with Electric Cut-outs , and a Tune )
Any reason you will be doing cutouts and duals? They won't make any more power (some cases lose power) and just add weight.
Old 11-01-2016, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JD_AMG
400RWHP or 400 fly wheel hp?
Big difference...
Also you really need to use the search feature and read the stickies, it would answer all these questions you have had.
Also if you already didn't know the WS6 does NOT make any more power over a base V8 TransAm/Formula regardless what what GM "rates" them at. And even if they did it would totally be a moot point if you want to swap out the exhaust anyway seeing thats the only major difference engine-wise.

Please read:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cam-guide.html


Exactly. The OP only stated "400hp", not 400rwhp. 400hp is a very attainable goal with just common bolt-ons.


LT headers + full exhaust, lid, and tune will be plenty to get that job done (400 crank HP.)
Old 11-02-2016, 09:11 PM
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You also have to consider IF we are talking about 400whp in a stick you'd probably need to look into a clutch. So it's basically clutch vs stall. The stick will make more power, but the auto is more consistent if you plan to track the car.
Old 11-02-2016, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Never knew all this ,
Thank you for sharing

Another thing with the 6 spd. ,
It only has 70,000 miles on it
It's owned by the same owner who bought it new in 2001
And they have always kept it Garaged

My WS6 has clear coat peeling in about 6 places, driver side window won't roll down, the Headlight motor makes a grinding sound when you turn the Headlights off, it has 170,000 miles on it ( so 100,000 more miles then this 6 spd. one has )

Plus the 6 spd. is in immaculate condition, both inside and out

Not sure what I could get for mine ( Realisticly ) ..... $3,500 ?
The 6 speed sounds pretty good with only 70k miles and single owner. Still make sure that it was taken care of during those 70k miles.

As for your ws6, the clear coat peeling and high mileage are pretty much the big downsides here. How bad is the clearcoat? Typically the hoods are the first to peel.

The window motor is an easy 40 dollar fix. Ive done it like 3 times now on 2 different fbodies, and the grinding sound is probably a stripped headlight motor gear. Theres a few tutorials here for that too.


As far as reaching 400hp, whats your budget like?
Old 11-04-2016, 08:35 PM
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Zlow28,
The 6 spd. with the Original 70,000 miles , It's in Top notch condition both inside and out .... I thoroughly looked it over and drive it



My WS6 is peeling in about 5 places now..... Both sides on the bumper, the Passenger side ( right where the Antenea is ) , the Passenger Mirror,a and the front of the Hood

Didn't know exactly what might be going out with the Headlight .... This makes sense now.
The Headlight has been making the same Grinding sound ( for nearly 9 years now ) , which is when I got the car




As far as reaching 400hp, whats your budget like?

I want to keep my Budget to around $1,000 - $1,200 .... not sure if this is feasible though, to achieve $400+ HP

I was looking at TSP 1 7/8 LTs last night.... Looking around $375 for a set
Plus Installation, Electric Cut-Out(s) where the Headers End
Cold Air and a Tune ?

I ran the nubers, and given everything that my WS6 needs done to get it looking , running and sounding like I Envision it .... I'm looking at $7,000 - $7,500

Whereas if I bought the one with 70,000 Miles , I'd spend about $9,500 ( with non of the Mods that I want to do ) .... All stock


The Mods/Work I'd have to spend , some rough Estimate Prices .......

1. PAINT the Entire Vehicle.....I'd paint it that Pearl White ( Cadillac/Lexus white ) that has a bit of a pink/light blue tint to it
A Top Notch Paint job from the most reputable Paint Shop in my area , quoted me at $3,500 ( this includes the Jams )

2. TSP 1 7/8 LTS ... $450 ( this assumes shipping )

Two DMH Electric Cut-Outs ( About $400 ( includes shipping

I currently have a Borla Catback on my car , but am Wondering/Hoping that I can Add a Cut-Out just after each Header , and basically run Open Headers when ever I have them open ? Thoughts on this ?

I'd love to run True Duals ( still with the 2 Cut-Outs right after the LTs , but I'm trying to " save " some money lol

3. C6 ZO6 OEwheels ...... 18' Rims with the Tires ( the set of 4 from the site ) ...... Roughly $1,300 with Shipping

4. Transmission ..... it's leaking fluid , and I've had it looked at. Basically I'm looking at $900 to fix the reason it's leaking Internally OR I can spend about $1,200 and get a Retired Mechanic I know ( he now works directly out of the shop at his house ) , to put me one in ( when he can locate one )

5. Window motor $50

6. Headlight motor $100 ?

7. S-Type Front Lip $450 ( shipped )

8. BMR lowering Springs and Koni SRT.T shocks and sturts ...... $400 ?? ( not sure about price for this setup )

9. I'll likely do the Heater hose Mod for the Rear

10. Re-tint all of the windows ( T-tops included ) ..... $300 ish ( to tear the old off, and put new on ) ? ?

11. 2 Last of the Breed Badges ( one for either side ) $75

12. I have Silver Pinstripe Stripes that I MIGHT but on the Hood

12. 12 Disc-Changer ( it just completely stopped working one day ) ...... $150 ?

All in All , I have estimated the total cost for everything to be around $7,000 - $7,500

I'm I likely way off on the Total to get and have everything mentioned above done , or pretty close ?
I am assuming the Labor on all of this as well




Thank you for everyone weighing in and giving their recommendations... I really appreciate it
Old 11-04-2016, 08:42 PM
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I just re-worked everything I mentioned .... Likely $8,000 ?
Old 11-05-2016, 10:54 PM
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I cant see how 1200 dollars will get you 400rwhp from stock. You can probably find a camshaft kit from a sponsor here, but that will probably run about 800 or 900 for a good kit. Plus then you have to add the supporting mods and a tune which will make the price spike. And this is assuming you do all the work yourself.

Whichever car you decide on, id start with long tubes, then the rest of the exhaust. I heard that just about every brand of E-cutouts burnout after some time. So I personally decided against them and decided im doing true duals. Im just still not sure if i should do dumped, or hooker blackheart system. For me the only con on dumped duals, is that i dont like how firebirds look without exhaust tips.
Then id, probably do a lid, and intake. I have a ls6 intake, but a fast will be better once youre in the 400rwhp range.
Old 11-08-2016, 09:55 AM
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Would it make any sense to hold off on the LTs for now , and just get an Electric Cut-Out for each ( Stock ) header .... If my sole purpose is to have the car sound louder vs HP gains ?
I definitely intend to add 1 7/8 LTs soon though

I've heard of the Hooker BlackHeart ....... About how much is that Setup ( Parts and Labor ) ?
Old 11-08-2016, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Would it make any sense to hold off on the LTs for now , and just get an Electric Cut-Out for each ( Stock ) header .... If my sole purpose is to have the car sound louder vs HP gains ?
I definitely intend to add 1 7/8 LTs soon though

I've heard of the Hooker BlackHeart ....... About how much is that Setup ( Parts and Labor ) ?
Putting cutouts directly off the manifolds, or in the stock Y-pipe, would be difficult due to shape and space. If you just want it louder for now but plan LTs and true duals later, you could simply remove the entire factory catback at the Y-pipe and put a dump/turndown on the end of the Y-pipe. That would be loud and offer even better gains than an aftermarket catback. Or, if you want the option to quiet it down, just put a cutout in the stock I-pipe for now.
Old 11-08-2016, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dsvtr
Would it make any sense to hold off on the LTs for now , and just get an Electric Cut-Out for each ( Stock ) header .... If my sole purpose is to have the car sound louder vs HP gains ?
I definitely intend to add 1 7/8 LTs soon though

I've heard of the Hooker BlackHeart ....... About how much is that Setup ( Parts and Labor ) ?
If you intend on headers very soon just wait man. You will end up redoing all this stuff if you make a move now. LT's will make the car plenty loud trust me. Oh and never run dual cutouts off each collector, its just nothing but stupid loud noise with no tone. 9/10 cant keep them open long enough to make it down the street due to how annoying it is.

Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Putting cutouts directly off the manifolds, or in the stock Y-pipe, would be difficult due to shape and space. If you just want it louder for now but plan LTs and true duals later, you could simply remove the entire factory catback at the Y-pipe and put a dump/turndown on the end of the Y-pipe. That would be loud and offer even better gains than an aftermarket catback. Or, if you want the option to quiet it down, just put a cutout in the stock I-pipe for now.

This.
Old 11-08-2016, 03:50 PM
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Bolt-ons and a 150 shot. Boom, and when I say boom, I mean in a good way.
Old 11-09-2016, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Bolt-ons and a 150 shot. Boom, and when I say boom, I mean in a good way.
Yea like boom now you have an excuse for a 408 swap lol


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