Tyler Wilson

iTrader: (6)

We are going to start installing the Fays2 Watts Link, Strano 35/22 hollow sway bars with rear being adjustable, Ground Control coilover kit and Koni S/A's on all 4 corners.
1999 Pontiac T/A WS6 M6.
Car will have 17x11's with 315's all around.
600# front springs, 175# rear springs (Eibach).
We have never done this before, so I wondered what had to be done to the front Koni SA 8241-1139 sport to fit the Ground Control kit. It says some fabricating that voids the warranty needs to be done - what do we need to do?
I am thinking about setting the Koni's at 2 clicks from full hard - is that a good place to start?
Also, for anyone who runs a Watts - should we start in the middle of the roll center adjuster, or further down, or at the top?
On the adjustable rear swaybar - anyone who could give me a good starting point where to set it would be appreciated.
I have put calls into Sam since I bought all this stuff from him (except Ground Control) but he is really busy so he has not returned my calls yet. We will start on this tonight.
Thanks guys
Tyler

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

to fit the ground controls onto the Koni you either need to grind down the top hat (which may or may not void the warranty) or remove them and reinstall them which I would imagine retains the warranty (but not sure)

you can make a tool to remove them or contact blainefab, I think he used to make them

Tyler Wilson

iTrader: (6)

Looks like we will do some grinding.
Thanks

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Ran my Watts for the first time this past weekend. Only 3 HPDEs under my belt, but here's my experience. Car is on stock springs and shocks, but Sam's 35/22 (non-adjustable) sway bars. I'm also running UMI LCA's and full length adjustable Torque Arm.

I ran with the Watts in the center hole on Sat per the recommendation in the manual... I didn't have enough experience to vary from that so it seemed like the place to start. Car definitely stuck better than before the Watts, but I had a lot of other suspension mods done since previous outings so that probably doesn't mean anything.

Since I still haven't done my research on the magic of roll center geometry I took the easy route and read over on frrax.com that if the car pushes/understeers to move the watts bolt up. So Sat night I moved it up 2 spots (second hole from top). Although the difference wasn't dramatic, it was definitely noticeable. The front tires definitely stuck better.

I've heard some guys run it in the top hole, but for now, since my car will be in a different configuration the next time out I'll probably leave it where it is for now. It's nice having the adjustability though!

Mark.

Tyler Wilson

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the update. Good to hear from someone that has a Watts.
Sounds like I will do something similar to what you did.
I am a member on frrax too, but must have missed the thread you are talking about.

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, seems like an obvious question that I thought would have been easy to find an answer too. Turns out I was wrong. I completely stumbled across the answer in a thread on frrax.com... It was buried way down in a post in a somewhat related thread. Heck, I can't even find it anymore. But hey... I now have my own experience to relate to so at least I now know which direction to adjust!

btw... I weighed the Watts setup that went in the car as well as the panhard bar setup that came out. Don't have the numbers with me now but plan to post in the near future.

Have Fun!
Mark.

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Ok, have the numbers with me:

Weight of Panhard Bar, Brace, and the single bolt & nut that's no longer used once the Watts is installed: 10.2lbs
Weight of the Fays2 Watts Link with all hardware including sway-bar spacers: 29.4lbs Without the sway-bar spacers: 28.8lbs

Ok... back on topic

Tyler Wilson

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info. I wasn't able to install the Watts since they didn't send me any of the 4 axle shims i needed!
Should be here in a couple days.........
I am sure the extra weight will be worth the handling improvement - right!?

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Simple answer is Yes! I've heard some describe it as night-n-day (there are a couple threads on here and on frrax.com regarding the watts)... me, I'm the less dramatic type... takes a LOT to make me use that term. Having said that, I'll will say it's a big difference. Even with my limited experience I can tell you it made a BIG difference on my understeer on the track. I've been told numerous times that I'm pretty consistent on the track so when I made a change to the Watt's center bolt location I can safely say the change I experienced was mostly (if not all) due to that and not me adjusting for it... not sure if I even have the skill yet to adjust to the car anyway

Only negative I've noticed (and it's minor) is on the street the rear end feels a little heavier over bumps (speed bumps, pot holes and such). "Feels" like the stock springs are having a hard time controlling the extra weight under these "extreme" conditions. I'm running rod-ended lower control arms though so I could just be "feeling" a lot more in general.

As with everything it's a compromise... One I definitely think is worth it!