Road racing
#4
what kind of tracks? id say keep it basic. decent set of shocks with linear springs and a better set of front pads.
after that its all about seat time. as you discover the limits of your car, you can make adjustments accordingly.
after that its all about seat time. as you discover the limits of your car, you can make adjustments accordingly.
#7
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#8
TECH Senior Member
Sportlines are terrible for anything other than looks, and KYB AGX's are mediocre at best (the lower end KYB's arn't even worth mentioning).
You also don't need a shock tower brace (although its not hurting anything) and the LCA relocation brackets can cause roll oversteer from altering your roll center.
If you want to get serious this is the type of setup you should look into (it has multiple national championships in Fstock):
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...fications.html
Heres his site: stranoparts.com
#9
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If you've never been before.....clean underwear Compared to drag racing, road racing is a nerve-racking experience.
Seriously, make sure your pads/rotors are good..and that the alignment is good. Run the car and see what feels uncomfortable. Your mods will dictate from that point, whether it be better seats, subframes, brakes, etc.
Seriously, make sure your pads/rotors are good..and that the alignment is good. Run the car and see what feels uncomfortable. Your mods will dictate from that point, whether it be better seats, subframes, brakes, etc.
#10
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Everything you have should be good for the road course or autocross, but the lower control arm relocation brackets should be moved to the second hole or back to the stock location.
As far as the brakes, just buy a good set of pads (Hawk HP+, Carbotech, StopTech), tires (Toyo RA-1, R888, Nitto NT01, or a 200 wear like the NT05 and Falken RT615), lines (Russel, Goodridge), and fluid (AP Racing, Willwood, Motul, Amsoil - really anything close to or exceeding 600-degrees). With the rotors, you'll have a few options here. You can go big and spend a lot of money on a two-piece rotor that will more than likely be destroyed by the end of your sessions. Or go with an affordable blank rotor from your local auto parts store that will become your racing rotors. Autocrossing will be much easier on the brakes because more than likely you won't reach speeds above 100mph. Its these repeated high-speed stops that are going to kill your rotors and push the limits of your fluid. You shouldn't have any trouble getting out of an autoX with your brakes in operational condition. haha
Here is an article I wrote about how to get yourself and your car ready for a day at the track. A lot of it will apply to autoX. CLICK
Have some fun!
- Kevin