cancam99ss

iTrader: (8)

Question....
I am going to be racing the camaro in May.
What do i need.....
i was told stainless steel brake lines, slotted rotors and pads!

anything else you can reccomend

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

What is done already done to the suspension?

cancam99ss

iTrader: (8)

the car is a 6 speed manual 99 camaro ss
all four corners has kyb with eibach sportline springs
3 point sfc
dual adjustable lca
dual adjustable Phb
relocation phb
relocation lca
strut bar

gmdoctor

iTrader: (3)

what kind of tracks? id say keep it basic. decent set of shocks with linear springs and a better set of front pads.
after that its all about seat time. as you discover the limits of your car, you can make adjustments accordingly.

maxharvard

All depends on what you want the car to be.

This going to be autox or road course stuff?

cancam99ss

iTrader: (8)

It's for autocrossin

maxharvard

In that case you don't really "need" anything other than to pass tech. Which means; no leaking fluids, functional seat belts and battery tied down. Theres a few other smaller things but that's the basics

JD_AMG

You definitely need to search the suspension section...
Sportlines are terrible for anything other than looks, and KYB AGX's are mediocre at best (the lower end KYB's arn't even worth mentioning).
You also don't need a shock tower brace (although its not hurting anything) and the LCA relocation brackets can cause roll oversteer from altering your roll center.
If you want to get serious this is the type of setup you should look into (it has multiple national championships in Fstock):
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...fications.html
Heres his site: stranoparts.com

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

If you've never been before.....clean underwear Compared to drag racing, road racing is a nerve-racking experience.

Seriously, make sure your pads/rotors are good..and that the alignment is good. Run the car and see what feels uncomfortable. Your mods will dictate from that point, whether it be better seats, subframes, brakes, etc.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

First, to clarify, autocrossing is not road racing. The demands on every component are going to be different. However, many of the same ideas will apply.

Everything you have should be good for the road course or autocross, but the lower control arm relocation brackets should be moved to the second hole or back to the stock location.

As far as the brakes, just buy a good set of pads (Hawk HP+, Carbotech, StopTech), tires (Toyo RA-1, R888, Nitto NT01, or a 200 wear like the NT05 and Falken RT615), lines (Russel, Goodridge), and fluid (AP Racing, Willwood, Motul, Amsoil - really anything close to or exceeding 600-degrees). With the rotors, you'll have a few options here. You can go big and spend a lot of money on a two-piece rotor that will more than likely be destroyed by the end of your sessions. Or go with an affordable blank rotor from your local auto parts store that will become your racing rotors. Autocrossing will be much easier on the brakes because more than likely you won't reach speeds above 100mph. Its these repeated high-speed stops that are going to kill your rotors and push the limits of your fluid. You shouldn't have any trouble getting out of an autoX with your brakes in operational condition. haha

Here is an article I wrote about how to get yourself and your car ready for a day at the track. A lot of it will apply to autoX. CLICK

Have some fun!

- Kevin