A heads up for the guys who track or autoX your car.
11-14-2013, 06:09 PM
#1
A heads up for the guys who track or autoX your car. Just a heads up.
If you have lower control relocation brackets on the rear, have them welded on(welded well) if they are not already. I bent and moved mine due to brake hop.
Check your front K member for cracks often. If you have a tube K member swap it back to a stock unit, If I can crack a stock one on NT05 street tires no tubular k member needs to be on a track car.
Check all the bolts under the car on regular intervals.
Brake hop tears up, bends and loosens stuff up.
EDIT
Also check your torque arm bolts, mine were loose.
If you have lower control relocation brackets on the rear, have them welded on(welded well) if they are not already. I bent and moved mine due to brake hop.
Check your front K member for cracks often. If you have a tube K member swap it back to a stock unit, If I can crack a stock one on NT05 street tires no tubular k member needs to be on a track car.
Check all the bolts under the car on regular intervals.
Brake hop tears up, bends and loosens stuff up.
EDIT
Also check your torque arm bolts, mine were loose.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 11-16-2013 at 08:52 AM.
11-15-2013, 05:45 PM
#3
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Brake hop rapes your car. I run autozone pad in the rear and hp+ in the front to attempt to prevent it. Also if you are new to AX or RR you should check your front sway bar mounts they always bent or snap.
Last edited by camarokid91; 11-15-2013 at 11:21 PM.
11-16-2013, 10:00 PM
#6
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My class prevents bias so autozone pad slap the rears and it should minimize it from happening, it will not prevent it tho.
11-17-2013, 03:36 PM
#9
...Because its the proper way to fix the problem. Allows more adjustment to compensate for track conditions and fuel loads, plus you can run a more race oriented pad whose behavior is known under high heat conditions, rather than an unknown parts store pad. I'm not saying its a mod for everyone, I was merely answering a question as to the solutions to help eliminate axle hop under braking. No need to be a dick.
11-17-2013, 03:57 PM
#10
...Because its the proper way to fix the problem. Allows more adjustment to compensate for track conditions and fuel loads, plus you can run a more race oriented pad whose behavior is known under high heat conditions, rather than an unknown parts store pad. I'm not saying its a mod for everyone, I was merely answering a question as to the solutions to help eliminate axle hop under braking. No need to be a dick.
I asked a question, I wanted to know.
Hardly any guys in here adjust for fuel loads or track conditions, most guys HPDE their street cars.
With that said do you really feel the need to buy a $140 set of rear pads then install and use a bias adjuster? Or buy a $40 set of pads with no adjuster? Not much heat or load on the rears compared to the fronts, will a parts store pad overheat on the rear in a HPDE or AutoX environment?
I have run Hawk HP+ on the rear with no issues and am going to drop from a Raybestos ST43 to a Porterfield R4 and see how that does on the rear.
11-17-2013, 04:37 PM
#11
Sorry, took your response the wrong way. It's the Internet after all. My car currently is set up like yours, I'm running weaker pads in the rear. However, my car is transitioning from a street car to a more track oriented piece, so the bias adjuster would be worth it to me. Another part of that situation is that I'm eliminating the ABS (I can't stand the shitty system in these cars) so it will be easy for me to plumb one in.
I'm also planning ahead for when I start to run race rubber at the track, and have more grip available in the rear. Like you I'm running on street tires, so there really isn't a need for the bias adjuster quite yet. I'm going to experiment a lot more next year, as I'm switching to a wilwood SL6 set up in the front, with an aggressive pad (haven't decided yet). I have a fresh set of HPS's that I got for free so hopefully I won't run into any issues.
I'm also planning ahead for when I start to run race rubber at the track, and have more grip available in the rear. Like you I'm running on street tires, so there really isn't a need for the bias adjuster quite yet. I'm going to experiment a lot more next year, as I'm switching to a wilwood SL6 set up in the front, with an aggressive pad (haven't decided yet). I have a fresh set of HPS's that I got for free so hopefully I won't run into any issues.
11-17-2013, 04:40 PM
#12
Another thing I've noticed from searching sites like FRRAX is that having stiffer front springs can help, as it slows down the weight transfer while getting hard on the brakes. Currently I have 650lb springs and I have to be driving like a real idiot to encounter brake hop.
11-17-2013, 04:41 PM
#13
Sorry, took your response the wrong way. It's the Internet after all. My car currently is set up like yours, I'm running weaker pads in the rear. However, my car is transitioning from a street car to a more track oriented piece, so the bias adjuster would be worth it to me. Another part of that situation is that I'm eliminating the ABS (I can't stand the shitty system in these cars) so it will be easy for me to plumb one in.
I'm also planning ahead for when I start to run race rubber at the track, and have more grip available in the rear. Like you I'm running on street tires, so there really isn't a need for the bias adjuster quite yet. I'm going to experiment a lot more next year, as I'm switching to a wilwood SL6 set up in the front, with an aggressive pad (haven't decided yet). I have a fresh set of HPS's that I got for free so hopefully I won't run into any issues.
I'm also planning ahead for when I start to run race rubber at the track, and have more grip available in the rear. Like you I'm running on street tires, so there really isn't a need for the bias adjuster quite yet. I'm going to experiment a lot more next year, as I'm switching to a wilwood SL6 set up in the front, with an aggressive pad (haven't decided yet). I have a fresh set of HPS's that I got for free so hopefully I won't run into any issues.
Keep us updated.
Call Tim@Porterfield Brakes, I am running the Raybestos ST47 on the front and like them so far.
11-17-2013, 04:46 PM
#14
That's the thing I hate about autocross classing. I'm willingly bumping myself to CP with the winter mods I'm doing this year, even though I will get destroyed. I want to make my car faster on the road course and just do AX for fun when I don't have the money for track days.
11-17-2013, 04:48 PM
#15
11-17-2013, 04:55 PM
#16
I will know at the end of the month as I will go back to the same track that devoured a set of Carbotechs in 7.5 sessions and try the Raybestos.
11-17-2013, 05:04 PM
#17
I have so much research to do on pads. There are so many different race compounds available for the wilwoods that my head is spinning. The only reason I'm upgrading to the calipers is durability. The pads are cheaper and I don't want to chew through a set of pads every other tack day. I know a few Vette guys that have done the upgrade and they claim the pads last twice as long.
11-17-2013, 05:18 PM
#18
I have so much research to do on pads. There are so many different race compounds available for the wilwoods that my head is spinning. The only reason I'm upgrading to the calipers is durability. The pads are cheaper and I don't want to chew through a set of pads every other tack day. I know a few Vette guys that have done the upgrade and they claim the pads last twice as long.
Call Tim at Porterfield, he will get you straight on pads.
11-17-2013, 06:16 PM
#20