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Initial soft brake pedal? pad knock-back?

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Old 03-17-2017, 09:20 AM
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Default Initial soft brake pedal? pad knock-back?

This is not a "new" condition for me that I have noticed but maybe I'm getting a little more annoyed with it.

I have this condition even driving on the highway and getting off coming to a stop. The first time I hit the brake pedal it will feel soft and travel farther than expected. Once the first initial pump is done, the pedal travels less and grabs sooner.

I thought this only happens during racing for people but on the highway it's slightly unnerving when you have a "oh ****" moment and need brakes instantly (happened last night when someone didn't know how to merge...)

95 Z28
Ls1 Front brakes stock rear
Hawk HP+ pads front Duralast rear
pads and rotors are not worn out
no leaks in system
(will need to verify fluid level but this has happened when fluid level is OK)
Rocketman1 adapters with SKF hubs
No ABS lights or issues

Is this "pad knock-back"?? If so I thought this happened when hubs were deflecting and pushing pads back into caliper **while racing not DD**...but with the SKF hubs I figured this solves that issue.
Old 03-17-2017, 11:04 AM
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I assume you know how to properly bleed the system and have done that. How much play do you have in your rear axles? Might need new c clips if more than 1/8 of an inch or so.
Old 03-17-2017, 11:10 AM
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It can happen on the rears too, but to a lesser extent. I have a video of rear discs moving/angling around a lot more than I ever imagined.
Old 03-17-2017, 11:13 AM
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I had this problem after a while with LS1 rear discs swapped onto my Chevelle axle housing. It was every time I turned right, axle would slide in the housing and push the piston back in the caliper.

I replaced the C clips and also put new clutches/shims in the Eaton and it went away. Not certain which cured it or if both helped.
Old 03-17-2017, 11:53 AM
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Car has a TruTrac (put in maybe 2 summers ago), original c-clips. Never thought that c clips would "wear" lol.

Now, I have put in longer ARP studs in the rear in which I tapped the old ones out with a hammer. I can't imagine this "flattening the c clips to the point it allows more axle movement.

So you guys thing it's coming from the rear more than the front given I have brand new SKF front hubs?
Old 03-17-2017, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by M4N14C
I assume you know how to properly bleed the system and have done that. How much play do you have in your rear axles? Might need new c clips if more than 1/8 of an inch or so.
I have not bleed the system for a while, but last time I did it was PS RR, DR RR, PS FR, DR FR.

I then cracked the bleeders on the distribution block as well.

Is there a "spec" to measure axle movement and if so what specifically are you measuring for wear if there is excess movement?
Old 03-17-2017, 12:03 PM
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Not saying this "is" your problem. First thing that came to my mind is the master.
Old 03-20-2017, 07:05 AM
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Check if your caliper sliders are functioning properly. These are the greased posts that the caliper mounting bolts connect to on the caliper mounting bracket. If these are not working properly, the calipers won't move with the axle when there is side-to-side movement, or center automatically as your pads wear.
Old 03-20-2017, 08:34 AM
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Great, thanks. I'll check those and or grease them anyways since I'll have them apart.
Old 03-22-2017, 09:14 AM
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1981TA I tore everything apart last night and found the fronts were OK with the amount of grease in them but replaced it anyways.

The rears were pretty dry and the grease that was there was more of a paste. Drive to work seemed much better. Will keep an eye on this.

Thanks again, so far the slider pins seem to be the issue.
Old 03-22-2017, 09:55 AM
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Glad to see it worked out. I had a similar problem on one of my cars, and it can certainly be an attention getter.
Old 04-03-2017, 08:27 PM
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After driving this for a while now, seems the rear sliders were in fact the issue.

Lesson learned!

Thanks again 1981TA



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