Cam Motion LS Camshaft Garage Sale - ALL CAMS SOLD
#1
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
Cam Motion LS Camshaft Garage Sale - ALL CAMS SOLD
Category: Racing Parts
Price: $275
Part Fits: 2010+ Camaro, 93-02 Chevrolet Camaro, 93-02 Pontiac Firebird, Corvette, 04-06 Pontiac GTO, 04+ Cadillac CTS-V
Location (State): LA
Item Condition: Used
Engine: LS2/LS3/LS7/L92/LS9, LS1/LS6
LS Engine?: Fits LS Engine
Some of these camshafts were used for testing, some were ground and never used. All have been inspected, polished, like new and are ready to go.
If these specs work for you, you can save yourself some cash.
All cams SOLD
Hydraulic Roller 5150 alloy 1 Bolt style cams:
212/218 .553"/.553" 113+2 - SOLD
Hydraulic Roller 5150 alloy 3 Bolt style cams:
212/218 .553"/.553" 113+2 - SOLD
234/250 .621"/.612" 116+4 - SOLD
Hydraulic roller 8620 alloy LS Chevy 3 bolt style cams:
210/214 .570"/.553" 114+4
221/226 .595"/.587" 112+4 - SOLD
222/228 .626"/.626" 114+2 - SOLD
222/232 .587"/.587" 120+2 - SOLD
228/236 .626"/.626" 112+5 - SOLD
228/229 .570"/.570" 116+4 -SOLD
232/232 .604"/.595" 117+4 - SOLD
234/240 .629/.621 111+3 - SOLD
240/240 .600"/.600" 110+4 - SOLD
240/244 .615"/.615" 111+2 - SOLD
246/254 .653"/.631 111+2 - SOLD
LLR Low Lash Solid Roller Camshafts:
LLR 255/262 .774/.757 110+3 - SOLD
LLR 228/236 .612"/.595" 114+4 - SOLD
LLR 262/272 .774"/.757" 112+3 - SOLD
LLR 270/280 .774"/.757" 112+3 - SOLD
LS-VVT SINGLE BOLT:
VVT 198/209 .498/.496 115.5+6
VVT 222/238 .587"/.578" 118+4
Last edited by CAMMOTION PERF; 03-15-2017 at 01:41 PM.
#3
Which of the 3 bolt cams would be most suitable for a stock bottom end daily driven LS1 Z28 M6 with an LS6 intake, lid, ported TB, long tube headers + Magnaflow catback. 4.11 rear end is in the future just waiting to break the 3.42s first. A larger TB and Fast intake are part of my future mods too.
Response, torque and power that is available at mid-range and pulls hard to the top is what im after.
Would the 228/236 be a good choice? Is it similar to the the Titan 4?
Would the 222/228 be more daily driver friendly?
Response, torque and power that is available at mid-range and pulls hard to the top is what im after.
Would the 228/236 be a good choice? Is it similar to the the Titan 4?
Would the 222/228 be more daily driver friendly?
#4
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Thread Starter
As for what you need to accompany your camshaft, I would recommend a good set of valve springs http://store.cammotion.com/catalog/p...cbfba573238628 and some good hardened chromoly pushrods http://store.cammotion.com/516-x-740...-wall-pushrods as mandatory accessories. During the installation, inpsection and/or replacement of the timing chain is good practice if you have a good amount of miles on the engine.
#5
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
Which of the 3 bolt cams would be most suitable for a stock bottom end daily driven LS1 Z28 M6 with an LS6 intake, lid, ported TB, long tube headers + Magnaflow catback. 4.11 rear end is in the future just waiting to break the 3.42s first. A larger TB and Fast intake are part of my future mods too.
Response, torque and power that is available at mid-range and pulls hard to the top is what im after.
Would the 228/236 be a good choice? Is it similar to the the Titan 4?
Would the 222/228 be more daily driver friendly?
Response, torque and power that is available at mid-range and pulls hard to the top is what im after.
Would the 228/236 be a good choice? Is it similar to the the Titan 4?
Would the 222/228 be more daily driver friendly?
The 222/228 114+2 will have a very similar power range, but with a smoother idle and slightly better daily driver manners. It would be an excellent camshaft for you if you want a mild performance idle.
The 228/236 112+5 will have a notable lope to the idle. It will buck a little at low RPMs like in traffic and parking lots if you don't keep the RPMs up and/or push in the clutch when necessary. It will make slightly more power than the other two. For use in your application, I would back this camshaft up 3 degrees and install the 228/236 112 on a 109 degrees centerline in your application. This would require an adjustable timing set if you are comfortable with degreeing a cam.
#7
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Thread Starter
PM me with all the details of your build and we can talk about it.
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#8
I would consider the 222/238 more of a supercharger camshaft.
As for what you need to accompany your camshaft, I would recommend a good set of valve springs http://store.cammotion.com/catalog/p...cbfba573238628 and some good hardened chromoly pushrods http://store.cammotion.com/516-x-740...-wall-pushrods as mandatory accessories. During the installation, inpsection and/or replacement of the timing chain is good practice if you have a good amount of miles on the engine.
As for what you need to accompany your camshaft, I would recommend a good set of valve springs http://store.cammotion.com/catalog/p...cbfba573238628 and some good hardened chromoly pushrods http://store.cammotion.com/516-x-740...-wall-pushrods as mandatory accessories. During the installation, inpsection and/or replacement of the timing chain is good practice if you have a good amount of miles on the engine.
#10
Any of these CAMs a good fit for my weekend driven LS swap? Would like to increase power and maintain a good idle. Engine is a 5.7 from a 2002 Vette and will be coupled with a manual AWD Porsche trans.
Stock bottom end
243 heads
Shorty headers no cats
Ls6 intake
Injector size undecided
LS2 DBW throttle body
Stock bottom end
243 heads
Shorty headers no cats
Ls6 intake
Injector size undecided
LS2 DBW throttle body
#12
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Thread Starter
#13
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Thread Starter
Also, since I know you are sharp technically, I will explain and give you a nice little cheat method so you can tell the difference in specs:
On a solid roller camshaft, the valve will not start to move until the lash is "taken up". It is kind of like a tow rope. If the rope is laying on the ground, whatever you want to tow will not move until the rope is pulled tight. So you have to move until the rope's slack is taken up before what your towing will move.
With a solid roller, the valve will not start to open until the lash is taken up. I have a general reference to help you figure out how lash effects cam specs for your average LS solid camshaft. It goes like this:
If a camshaft has .010" hot lash like most of our LLR camshafts, then figure the LLR will have 5 more degrees of duration @ .050" than a comparable hydraulic roller to have the same valve events. If it is a more of a standard lash solid with .024" lash then a solid camshaft would need to have about 12 degrees more duration at .050" to have the same valve events as a hydraulic roller. So, every .002" of lass equals about 1 degree of duration @ .050"
So, to make a LLR solid camshaft have the same duration as your 224/228 it would have to be about 229/232.
Sorry if you already knew that. Just let me know what you have in mind. I am glad to help.
~Steven
#14
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
Any of these CAMs a good fit for my weekend driven LS swap? Would like to increase power and maintain a good idle. Engine is a 5.7 from a 2002 Vette and will be coupled with a manual AWD Porsche trans.
Stock bottom end
243 heads
Shorty headers no cats
Ls6 intake
Injector size undecided
LS2 DBW throttle body
Stock bottom end
243 heads
Shorty headers no cats
Ls6 intake
Injector size undecided
LS2 DBW throttle body
#15
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
It would work, but it will actually have less duration at the valve than your current camshaft. The specs on solid rollers are a little different due to the lash. Not sure if you are looking to go bigger than what you have now?
Also, since I know you are sharp technically, I will explain and give you a nice little cheat method so you can tell the difference in specs:
On a solid roller camshaft, the valve will not start to move until the lash is "taken up". It is kind of like a tow rope. If the rope is laying on the ground, whatever you want to tow will not move until the rope is pulled tight. So you have to move until the rope's slack is taken up before what your towing will move.
With a solid roller, the valve will not start to open until the lash is taken up. I have a general reference to help you figure out how lash effects cam specs for your average LS solid camshaft. It goes like this:
If a camshaft has .010" hot lash like most of our LLR camshafts, then figure the LLR will have 5 more degrees of duration @ .050" than a comparable hydraulic roller to have the same valve events. If it is a more of a standard lash solid with .024" lash then a solid camshaft would need to have about 12 degrees more duration at .050" to have the same valve events as a hydraulic roller. So, every .002" of lass equals about 1 degree of duration @ .050"
So, to make a LLR solid camshaft have the same duration as your 224/228 it would have to be about 229/232.
Sorry if you already knew that. Just let me know what you have in mind. I am glad to help.
~Steven
Also, since I know you are sharp technically, I will explain and give you a nice little cheat method so you can tell the difference in specs:
On a solid roller camshaft, the valve will not start to move until the lash is "taken up". It is kind of like a tow rope. If the rope is laying on the ground, whatever you want to tow will not move until the rope is pulled tight. So you have to move until the rope's slack is taken up before what your towing will move.
With a solid roller, the valve will not start to open until the lash is taken up. I have a general reference to help you figure out how lash effects cam specs for your average LS solid camshaft. It goes like this:
If a camshaft has .010" hot lash like most of our LLR camshafts, then figure the LLR will have 5 more degrees of duration @ .050" than a comparable hydraulic roller to have the same valve events. If it is a more of a standard lash solid with .024" lash then a solid camshaft would need to have about 12 degrees more duration at .050" to have the same valve events as a hydraulic roller. So, every .002" of lass equals about 1 degree of duration @ .050"
So, to make a LLR solid camshaft have the same duration as your 224/228 it would have to be about 229/232.
Sorry if you already knew that. Just let me know what you have in mind. I am glad to help.
~Steven
Not really looking to change or go bigger, but if I could keep the drive-ability the same (if not better) and make more power, then I would entertain the swap.
#17
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
Thanks for that explanation, kind of how I thought it would work. Comparing to hydraulic this would act more like a 223/231?
Not really looking to change or go bigger, but if I could keep the drive-ability the same (if not better) and make more power, then I would entertain the swap.
Not really looking to change or go bigger, but if I could keep the drive-ability the same (if not better) and make more power, then I would entertain the swap.