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1995 S-10 turbo build

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Old 03-03-2016, 02:36 PM
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Default 1995 S-10 turbo build

Body
- 95 Long bed regular cab s10
- Unknown lbs right now

Motor
- 2002 lq4 with 135k
- Tick stage 2 turbo cam
- Tick valve spring kit
- ls9 gaskets
- Ported oil pump
- GM muscle car oil pan
- ARP head bolts
- 317s DIY P&P / Valve lapping
- Dirty Dingo mounts

Trans
- 4L80e 2002
- Circle D Multi Disc 2B converter
- Transgo HD
- Cheap remote mount cooler and fan
- TCI streetfighter shifter

Cooling
- Griffin rad that fits in core support. I will mod to make it a dual pass.
- Junkyard fans

Fuel
- Walbro 450
- 8an feed
- 6an return
- Haven't ordered injectors yet

Turbo
- Flipped manifolds?
- ON3 7875
- 60mm ebay wastegate
- 50mm VS racing BOV
- 3 inch VS racing intercooler/Piping

Rear
- 8.8 explorer full width
- 3.73's factory posi

ECU
- Stock ecu
- Going to try and tune it myself with HPtuners

Sold my daily and other projects to fund this.
Here is a spreadsheet of what it cost me minus a few items.




Started porting my 317 heads while I wait for parts to get here.
I have or have ordered everything on this list so far.

Last edited by D-WAKE; 03-10-2016 at 08:43 AM.
Old 03-03-2016, 02:47 PM
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$500 craigslist special



Cleaning it up



Unneeded wires









Old 03-03-2016, 03:17 PM
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Looks like fun. How was the port and polish? Thinking about doing mine this summer
Old 03-03-2016, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dmaxs10
Looks like fun. How was the port and polish? Thinking about doing mine this summer
This is the first time I've ever done it. I followed an older thread on here along with a gear head 4 life's youtube videos. I'm almost done with the driver side and halfway through it, I broke down and bought a nice electric dremel because listening to my air compressor run for 2 hrs at a time got old real quick. I'm not sure how much I'm improving or hurting the flow it was a time killer for me.
Old 03-03-2016, 08:34 PM
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Yea that's kinda why I'm going to do it, have a lot more time then money to spend on it. Good luck with the build
Old 03-03-2016, 09:17 PM
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I decided to test the dishwasher for aluminum heads myth I always see on the internet. I just loaded it with soap and stuck it inside flipped it and ran it again. Actually worked pretty good but I also have my hot water heater turned way up to make my pressure washer work better.













Old 03-04-2016, 04:48 PM
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Valve lapping results!

How the exhaust valves looked when I pulled them.



Wire wheeled them. Lots of pitting.



End product. Used a cordless drill with ¼ tube over stem.


Old 03-08-2016, 09:46 AM
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Here is a finished exhaust port I went to a 320grit flap wheel



Finally finished porting a head and assembled it. The Brian tooley valve springs were monsters compared to the stockers.
.


Going to finish the other head today so I started soaking other parts in a simple green bath. I'm hoping I can weld in the turbo drain in the timing cover without cooking the seal.

Old 03-08-2016, 02:03 PM
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Nice! I am currently building a turbo s10 also.
Old 03-08-2016, 07:36 PM
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Got my turbo and intercooler today. Time to start moving my a$$ since most of the parts are showing up.

Old 03-14-2016, 08:39 AM
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Tried to get some before pictures of the block when I was cleaning it for paint.



Put the tick stage 2 cam in.







As soon as it stops raining I'm going to pull my bike out so I can spray the motor.

Old 03-14-2016, 09:25 AM
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You destroyed your valve job because of the way you lapped your valves! It's a perfect example of why you shouldn't use a drill.

The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.

You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.

Last edited by zraffz; 03-14-2016 at 10:31 AM.
Old 03-14-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by zraffz
You destroyed your valve job because of the way you lapped your valves! It's a perfect example of why you shouldn't use a drill.

The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.

You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.
That's what a couple people told me. I'm hoping since I'm only going for 600hp MAX since I have the smaller gen 3 rods that I'll be okay. If they are totally messed up from my port job or the valves I'll just swap another set of stock 317's on it.
Old 03-14-2016, 12:19 PM
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Got a few extra hours at lunch today so I was able to spray bomb the lq4



Old 03-14-2016, 05:47 PM
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It looks good. I'd also just like to add that the way those valves are ground is probably going to promote carbon and increase the amount of pitting the valves see in a relatively short time... ultimately leading to all the seats leaking.

At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
Old 03-14-2016, 05:53 PM
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Wanted to post some comparison photos of truck manifolds vs TBSS manifolds since I couldn't find any when I was looking. The TBSS tucks a lot closer to the block than the truck ones.

TBSS no.1



TBSS no.2




Truck no. 1



Truck no. 2



Both TBSS hopefully I can run these if it clears everything



Better angle

Old 03-14-2016, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zraffz
It looks good. I'd also just like to add that the way those valves are ground is probably going to promote carbon and increase the amount of pitting the valves see in a relatively short time... ultimately leading to all the seats leaking.

At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
Do you have any idea how many miles roughly I can get out of them? I only did it to the exhaust valves because I couldn't get them to seal until I got all the pitting out. This is going to be my first turbo build I'm tuning so hopefully this motor even makes it a year.
Old 03-14-2016, 08:37 PM
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Default nice!

Nice project i just finished mine. It was harder and more expensive than id originally thought. However its a blast to drive. GLW yours!!



Old 03-15-2016, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by autoaddictions
Nice project i just finished mine. It was harder and more expensive than id originally thought. However its a blast to drive. GLW yours!!



That is super clean! Impressive build I just checked out your build thread and that things going to fly! Do you ever run at local tracks?
Old 03-15-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by D-WAKE
Do you have any idea how many miles roughly I can get out of them? I only did it to the exhaust valves because I couldn't get them to seal until I got all the pitting out. This is going to be my first turbo build I'm tuning so hopefully this motor even makes it a year.
Oh I have no idea. Im no expert when it comes to cylinder heads but I always like to make sure my tolerances are within spec. Off the top of my head I want to say the exhaust valve seat width is narrower than the intake... around .06" contact is normal I do believe.


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