1995 S-10 turbo build
#1
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1995 S-10 turbo build
Body
- 95 Long bed regular cab s10
- Unknown lbs right now
Motor
- 2002 lq4 with 135k
- Tick stage 2 turbo cam
- Tick valve spring kit
- ls9 gaskets
- Ported oil pump
- GM muscle car oil pan
- ARP head bolts
- 317s DIY P&P / Valve lapping
- Dirty Dingo mounts
Trans
- 4L80e 2002
- Circle D Multi Disc 2B converter
- Transgo HD
- Cheap remote mount cooler and fan
- TCI streetfighter shifter
Cooling
- Griffin rad that fits in core support. I will mod to make it a dual pass.
- Junkyard fans
Fuel
- Walbro 450
- 8an feed
- 6an return
- Haven't ordered injectors yet
Turbo
- Flipped manifolds?
- ON3 7875
- 60mm ebay wastegate
- 50mm VS racing BOV
- 3 inch VS racing intercooler/Piping
Rear
- 8.8 explorer full width
- 3.73's factory posi
ECU
- Stock ecu
- Going to try and tune it myself with HPtuners
Sold my daily and other projects to fund this.
Here is a spreadsheet of what it cost me minus a few items.
Started porting my 317 heads while I wait for parts to get here.
I have or have ordered everything on this list so far.
- 95 Long bed regular cab s10
- Unknown lbs right now
Motor
- 2002 lq4 with 135k
- Tick stage 2 turbo cam
- Tick valve spring kit
- ls9 gaskets
- Ported oil pump
- GM muscle car oil pan
- ARP head bolts
- 317s DIY P&P / Valve lapping
- Dirty Dingo mounts
Trans
- 4L80e 2002
- Circle D Multi Disc 2B converter
- Transgo HD
- Cheap remote mount cooler and fan
- TCI streetfighter shifter
Cooling
- Griffin rad that fits in core support. I will mod to make it a dual pass.
- Junkyard fans
Fuel
- Walbro 450
- 8an feed
- 6an return
- Haven't ordered injectors yet
Turbo
- Flipped manifolds?
- ON3 7875
- 60mm ebay wastegate
- 50mm VS racing BOV
- 3 inch VS racing intercooler/Piping
Rear
- 8.8 explorer full width
- 3.73's factory posi
ECU
- Stock ecu
- Going to try and tune it myself with HPtuners
Sold my daily and other projects to fund this.
Here is a spreadsheet of what it cost me minus a few items.
Started porting my 317 heads while I wait for parts to get here.
I have or have ordered everything on this list so far.
Last edited by D-WAKE; 03-10-2016 at 08:43 AM.
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This is the first time I've ever done it. I followed an older thread on here along with a gear head 4 life's youtube videos. I'm almost done with the driver side and halfway through it, I broke down and bought a nice electric dremel because listening to my air compressor run for 2 hrs at a time got old real quick. I'm not sure how much I'm improving or hurting the flow it was a time killer for me.
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Here is a finished exhaust port I went to a 320grit flap wheel
Finally finished porting a head and assembled it. The Brian tooley valve springs were monsters compared to the stockers.
.
Going to finish the other head today so I started soaking other parts in a simple green bath. I'm hoping I can weld in the turbo drain in the timing cover without cooking the seal.
Finally finished porting a head and assembled it. The Brian tooley valve springs were monsters compared to the stockers.
.
Going to finish the other head today so I started soaking other parts in a simple green bath. I'm hoping I can weld in the turbo drain in the timing cover without cooking the seal.
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#12
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You destroyed your valve job because of the way you lapped your valves! It's a perfect example of why you shouldn't use a drill.
The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.
You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.
The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.
You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.
Last edited by zraffz; 03-14-2016 at 10:31 AM.
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You destroyed your valve job because of the way you lapped your valves! It's a perfect example of why you shouldn't use a drill.
The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.
You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.
The valve has multiple angles (when you hear people talk about a 3 or 5 angle valve job). The entire surface does not sit tightly sealed to the valve seat but rather on a 1 (ish)mm contact area.
You are going to have issues with the way you ground down the seats and valves and leave a tremendous amount of power on the table.
#15
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
It looks good. I'd also just like to add that the way those valves are ground is probably going to promote carbon and increase the amount of pitting the valves see in a relatively short time... ultimately leading to all the seats leaking.
At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
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It looks good. I'd also just like to add that the way those valves are ground is probably going to promote carbon and increase the amount of pitting the valves see in a relatively short time... ultimately leading to all the seats leaking.
At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
At this point it is what it is but I don't think you'll have fun changing the heads once that motor is shoe horned into the S10.
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That is super clean! Impressive build I just checked out your build thread and that things going to fly! Do you ever run at local tracks?