phirepower

iTrader: (2)

the car has a 1990 small block 350, stock heads, 2.02 intake, 1.60 exh, 64cc chamber, stock crank. Willing to change anything except block and crank.What parts would you guys recommend to build this engine on a limited budget. Either natural aspirated, or small single carb blower. Possibly nitrous, drag race motor.

already on car:
M-21 4 spd standard, posi rear end w/ 4.11's, extremely light weight car, long tubes, true duals, full race suspension.

any advice or parts you guys are selling to achieve this goal please feel free to pm me with. Thanks

phirepower

iTrader: (2)

planning on posting pics of the car later this week, come on we need some help here guys!
budget builders, i know you are out there!

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I would get rid of the stock heads, as they were the worst flowing heads that GM ever made for the 350. I would recommend the AFR 195 Eliminators, or the older 210's if you are on a budget. I would use the scat I beam rods with the 7/16" cap screws and a set of Mahle Power Pack pistons part #SBC250030D11. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-S...QQcmdZViewItem http://www.carshopinc.com/advanced_s...s=SBC250030D11 I would use the H series coated bearings from clevite. A set of 7/16" 1.6 ratio full body roller rockers with a stud girdle. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMI...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._promot_widget I would also go with a solid roller lifter cam & lifters. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Extre...QQcmdZViewItem Don't be fooled by the price the PBM lifters are made by Morel lifters. I am also partial to useing PBM's Erson camshafts, they also have one of the very best solid roller profile designed cams available. http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/LobeDesign.pdf As for the intake choice I would use a Victor Jr. with a 2" HVH spacer or a Super Victor with a 1" HVH spacer. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HVH-S...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-HVH...QQcmdZViewItem http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=...=SBC+victor+Jr http://motors.search.ebay.com/search...trypage=search Lastly I would use a Quickfuel 750 cfm carb. http://motors.search.ebay.com/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

I agree with pretty much all that^^^. 'Cept I would stroke it. Ditch the factory crank, and go 383, or 396.
Def need way better heads than stock to get anywhere near the goal, plus lotsa compression, and a big nasty solid roller.

phirepower

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys, i will forward this information to my friend, check back pics should be up tonight!

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

500 is doable on stock stuff. The crank will handle it, the rods will handle it..you will be pushing the limits of the stock pistons. Put some forged pistons in it, stronger rod bolts, get a set of used heads like AFR's, Brodix, Canfields...whatever you can find. With enough compression, the right cam (roller block already right?) and intake you should be right in the upper 400 HP range. Realisticly you cant do 500hp on a 'budget', their is no way to do it on the cheap but it that should handle it and be pretty reliable on a decent budget. Just make sure you get quality machine work. Straight, true and acurate parts go a long way in term of making things last and hold up to power.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I gave him a list of reliable parts that will make way more than 500 HP. You never want to go cheap on your rods, unless you just like to rebuild motors all of the time. Yes, the stock rods could handle it for a little while but they WILL break with the rpm that will be used with the SR cam. I agree 100% with you on the machine work is absolutely critical to longevity of the motor. Make sure to also get your engine balanced, as this is some of the best spent money on a engine build(if you can find a shop with a CWT multi-balancer 3000 model you will get the best balance job). When you have a motor balanced in the older traditional way it will be in reality still 20 grams or so of out of balance (with the motors that I have seen). Also if he goes to alcohol he will gain 20-25% more HP. The stock crank will need to be turned down .020"-.030" in order to have a nice generous radi put on the journals that the aftermarket forged cranks come with. But you have to specifiy to the machine shop that you want a 1/8" radi put onto the journals, otherwise they will just grind it with a stock radius.

Bmassie

crank wont last with that much power spinning at high rpm

phirepower

iTrader: (2)

thankfully we have two 350 blocks to work with... keep the ideas coming! pics tonight

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

That is why I gave out the info in my previous post on how to strengthen the stock crankshaft. A good nodular iron crankshaft is actually stronger than a 4130 forged crank. If he bought a crank out of a LT1 car he would be able to machine the journals radi and be able to support 700 HP. The reason a nodular iron cast crank is stronger than a 4130 forged crank is that it has more flex to it than the 4130 chromemoly. This is where a good balance job comes into play for the higher rpm to be able to keep the harmonics out of the crankshaft rotation. But as the crank starts flexing with rpm the 4130 crank has a very limited amount of rpm that it can take before it breaks. Don't get me wrong 4130 chomemoly is extremely strong in other aspects, but it has more nickel & chrome than a 5140/4140/4340 forged crank and is so hard that it is brittle(for lack of a better word). The nodular iron crank will handle the extra flex of increased rpm and when you modify the stock crank with a larger radi, you give more strength to the crank.

Bmassie

very interesting good thing to know do you have more info than that,that i could read or is that all of it cause im interested in more info related to stregthening cast cranks thanks

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

where are the pics? I just bought a 64 Nova with a 396(402 bored .030) but mine is all out race car chasis but the motor is a 2 bolt main, Oval port heads solid lift cam and dont know what rpm this motor can safely be run to determine if 9's are posible with this engine. THe car only weights 2200-2300 lbs and around 2500-2600 with me in it.
I am dropping my gears back from 5.13's to 4.30's after I go to the track to see what it does with the 5.13's but I dont expect to be able to run the whole 1/4 with them. I am running 31x13 m/t slicks

LS7jUnKiE

iTrader: (5)

with personal preference aside, if I were to be building a smallblock 350 for drag race use only and it was in stock trim would it be more worth my while to swap to a big block instead as my car will be a sole track car? sorry for the hijack.