user 8373738

iTrader: (6)

I just got my Kee Audio basic speaker package installed into my 02 Camaro. It came with CDT fronts, Bazooka sails, and JVC rear speakers. For the fronts I soldered the original harness to the speakers and for the Sail Panel subs I soldered the - to the - and + to the + and installed a camaro adaptor harness so it would plug into the factory wiring. Install was easy and non eventful. I did have to get a few dorman speed nuts due to the originals falling. The speakers sound good but for some reason it sounds like I am hearing either driver noise from the subs or just plain distortion. Volume isnt cranked way up when I hear this. Do the sail panel speakers require any kind of break in? Did I wire them correctly? + to + - to -? Or is it because I have DVC's in a spot where there are supposed to be SVCs?

mischief

iTrader: (1)

the T/A's are DVC ( 4-ohm ) and camaros are SVC ( 2-ohm )

So for the bazooka's to work right in your SS, you'll need to wire them in parallel to achieve the 2ohm load, as the factorys were.

I think you ordered the wrong package or just miscommunication, but it can still work.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

No I use the bazookas in those for the camaro because they performed better when wired in parallel. The CDT's sound good as well but not quite as much bass because they are not a sub they are a midbass that can hit pretty low at about 50hz but the Bazookas can hit lower.

user 8373738

iTrader: (6)

So is the wiring I described correct? Do the Bazookas require a break-in? Any other reason why I am hearing "driver" noise (bass distortion)

HumanNipple

iTrader: (2)

I dunno if it's the same with the Bazookas but on the CDTS they don't come with foam on the back of the cone frame. I was getting "distortion" but Ian advised me to add foam on the back so the speaker doesn't rattle against the body work. I bought dynamat, screwed them into the dynamat then and viola my "distortion" was gone.

user 8373738

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the reply. I used all of the OEM hardware so I will open it back up and get some Dorman #6 speed nuts and #8 screws and look at the speakers. I'm hoping the OEM screws didn't cut the speaker surround. If the surround is cut is there anything out there to repair it.

user 8373738

iTrader: (6)

Kee,
Any thoughts on this? Is what I am hearing driver noise from the sail speakers?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Make sure they are wired like this:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...4-ohm_mono.jpg
They should be ok. It takes a bit of effort to cut the foam on those as they are treated and not just plain foam. It still doesn't sound like they are seated well. If there is air escaping from the sides then they will not sound right.
Keep me posted.

user 8373738

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for the response! That is how I have them wired, so I need to check the seal. Do you sell anything that I could use to put in place between the two surfaces?
Dan

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

A Roadkill speaker kit would help alot. I have to get all that up on the site. I stopped carrying Dynamat because they are just getting to darn expensive for the same product as other companies. I have Stinger Roadkill now that is just as good for dampening and actually gives you a little more product per sq. ft. This would not only act as a dampener but also help seat it. Speaker kits do 2 speakers and are $21.00 shipped. Let me check availability because my distributor was getting more back in stock for me.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Kee,

Can you explain what the roadkill speaker kit you are talking about is? Thanks.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Sure, it is just a sound deadener that is basically the same as a Dynamat speaker kit I used to carry but has a slightly larger surface area at 12" X 10" vs. the 10" x 10" of the Dynamat. The Roadkill kit is the same thickness if not slightly thicker as well. What it does is go underneath the speaker sandwiched between the metal surface of the opening where the speaker goes and the the speaker.
It is applyed by removing the speaker, peeling the backing off the Roadkill, and applying it across the opening of where the speaker goes. You then cut out the hole where the speaker mounts and reinstall the speaker back into the opening.
A good way to see how deadener works is to do the symbol test. I have done this. You can take a symbol from a drum set and put a small square of the deadener on it and it kills the sound a symbol would make. The point is you don't have to cover the entire symbol to deaden it. It is just enough to kill the vibration the symbol would make which is what makes the noise it makes. Literally it goes from making a "crash" sound to making a "tink" sound. Obviously for killing road noise this technique is not the way it works but for killing the vibration caused by speakers it works.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.