Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I'm gonna run a 10W6V2 for rear fill and a set of really nice 6.5 components, i.e. Focal, IDs, Dynaudio, etc.

Which JL amp can take care of all of this?

PS, I'll be running an Eclipse 8443 HU.

F8L Z71

A 250/1 can do it NP but for best results the 500/1 would run it perfect.


Now if you mean 1 amp to do all of it then the 500/5 can run the sub and the mids/high but I would make sure you have plenty of signal voltage out of your source unit.

We have a customer who started off with a 500/5 in his Tahoe and used a single 10w6v2 and it was great but he wanted more so he bought a 250/1 and another 10w6v2. So even though they mave a max RMS of around 400-500 you can easily run 200-250 to them and get good volume since they are fairly efficent. Well, compared to an L7 anyway LOL

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I'm running an Eclipse HU with 8V preouts so that should provide adequate signal. I was looking at the JL 450/4. I thought that maybe the 500/5 would be overkill???

F8L Z71

I just like the idea of being able to run rear fill and not having to push 1 set of speakers so hard to get good volume. But either way is fine

The 8v output should be fine. I am gonna test them out in the next couple weeks just to make sure that some of these manufactures are not inflating their voltage figures

maddboost

iTrader: (11)

Are you gonna run front and rear speakers? I would recommend a JL500/1 to power the sub and a JL 300/4 for the interiors. Or if you want a more pronounced front stage I would recommend a JL450/4.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

The only speakers being powered would be the components (6.5) in the front doors and the 10W6V2 in the passenger side stealthbox.

I will NOT be powering any of the other speakers in the car.

maddboost

iTrader: (11)

I would go with a JL300/2 and a JL500/1. I wouldnt recommend a smaller amp for the sub because 250 watts will underpower that sub and you will most likely blow it.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the recommendations. I doubt that I'd blow a sub by underpowering it though, unless I was amplifying a clipping signal it shouldn't blow. It wont play to its capabilities but it shouldn't blow (assuming a non-clipping signal)

maddboost

iTrader: (11)

Clipping or not the problem with most people who underpower subs is they over work the suspension. Ive seen far too many people underpower subs and blow them than over power them and blow them. I used to run 400 watts to my front speakers in my car and they were only rated to 150 watts. But they ran very clean and never seem to be out of power.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I understand what you're saying, maddboost.

I like your suggestion on the amp selection. I totally agree that the more power you can put to a speaker, the better it'll perform and the longer it'll live.

ls1 2001 z28

maddboost is completely correct.

cjacks7

iTrader: (1)

I work at a JL authoruzed shop, and just went through this. I never reccomend anythign less than a JL 500/1 for a w6v2. Another salesman sold a kit two w6's for his silverado on one 500. It was OK, and the kid wasn't looking for ok, for that much money. I had a 500/1 and a 10w6v2 in my last car for a month before I sold it. It was very impressive, but I'm selling it now, cuz I don't want the weight in the Z.

If you interested I only want $475 plus shipping for both.