LS6427

iTrader: (2)

In a time crunch to know this.

It came with 1" long screws. I have others. How deep can I go into this spot?

Thanks.

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Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

if you have shorter then 1" use them, if gas tank clearances stay the same on all sides I think you would have about a half to 3 quarters an inch clearance. you don't need much to hold an amp, hell I haven't even screwed mine down (its sitting on top of the rear hump) and it doesn't move, you only need enough screw to go thru the amps mounting bracket, carpet and and the metal (assume about 1/8th inch for the metal). doesn't that location interfere with putting your ttops into there holder?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Ok, thanks, I have screws that will protrude just 1/4" into that space behind the metal.

And yes, the t-tops fit perfectly. After the t-tops are in place and latched/locked, there was about 1-2 full inches between the t-top and the amp.

My last amp that was also mounted there, just allot lower so it was resting on the floor of the trunk area, thats why I asked about screw clearance up high,.....I put a bumper right in the middle of the amp that I got from Home Depot. It was for glass table tops, so they could rest on top of wood. It was like a little cushion maybe 1" x 1" square and it just stuck on there. It was perfect. If the t-top ever moved forward it would just gently bump that little cushion.......not the amp.
I think this amp is mounted so much higher up, I don't think there's any way the t-top can flex that far forward to touch the amp. I'll check that today when I mount the amp...after it stops raining outside.....

I'll get a picture for you.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The last picture is the little 1"x1" square cushion on my old amp. I just stuck it on the logo. The t-top rested on it.

I guess by moving the amp upward, now its about 6 inches from the bottom of the trunk, it makes the fit a little tighter.

But the t-top barely touches it, hardly any pressure on the amp at all. If I lightly pull the t-top away from the amp there's about 1 inch of space. So I went to Home Depot and bought cushions. They are 2" in diameter and about 1/8" thick rubber, very cushiony........I'll put 4 of them on there and the t-top will rest against them. They are black so they blend with the color of the amp perfectly.

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Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

cool, do you know of somewhere to get those ttop shades, could really use a set of those here in the south with summer coming up. So everything went good mounting? I may move my Epicenter down there when I get some longer RCA cables (I just pulled the system from my old car and dropped it into my bird and and my rca barely reached the rear hump) when I finally get my old sub sold I will be going super big and doing 2-12's in the area the backseat currently occupies and would love to get the little white box of the Epicenter hidden away, I would say my amp would be to tall to still fit with the ttops in place, but thats a great way to hide everything.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Daniel Richards

IMO, get a piece of 3/8" oak plywood, paint it to seal it up, then place it under the carpet on the rear deck then use 1/2" screws and mount it. BTW, I mounted my epicenter under the drivers seat and put the wired remote controller in the cubby hole to the left of the cigarette lighter, it fits perfect there.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

When I got my epicenter the place I bought it only had it in white and since then some rubberized undercoating got smeared on it so I just want to hide it away and then center my Beautiful Autotek Mean Machine 2500.1D on the back deck, but I'll need to get some quality longer RCA's, but right now My budget is saving up for new shocks and before to long an alternator, Mines so weak that when I brake with the engine RPM's under 1k the headlights dim and thats without any radio playing, so good quality and length RCA's can wait till the budget allows.

As it sits the carpet is enough to hold the amp from moving for now so I'll worry about fully mounting later. but I did just have an Idea, my power antenna is shot (won't go up or down) so I may just mount the epicenter at the bolt the antenna grounds to.

Raleigh TA

iTrader: (13)

I have the same issue, I am thinking of using an epoxy to stick some nuts to the metal of the trunk area and use bolts to attach the amp.

I like the stick holding up your hatch! I just got rid of mine, new gas shocks from O'Reillys $60, greatest mod ever!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I simply drilled a hole for the top two mounting positions, screwed the screws in. Done. It took me 2 minutes. Its solid as a rock.

Remember, my amp is maybe 3 inches thick.....there's still space when I push the t-top rearward away from the amp. So unless your amp is like 5 inches thick.....it should still work in that spot.
You could also maybe mount it on the other side of the trunk area, on the back wall. There's a ton of room on that side between the t-top and where the amp would be.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

lol.....yea, my shocks have been shot for like 5 years. I'll get some shocks some day when I hit the auto parts store again.
A friend of mine took a grinder a and grinded a channel about 1/8" deep into one of the chrome ram rods on one side. Then he bought a c-clip for like $1.00. He opens his hatch, then pops it on. It keeps the hatch up.

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Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I'm not looking to really hide the amp (the black in the picture attached) it looks good on the rear hump and will go well with the planned system but the epicenter (the white thing in the pics below) is small and ugly and I don't even want to see it when I open the back to store the t-tops and it doesn't really produce any heat so I can tuck it away once I get longer RCA cables.

I guess I'm lucky my hatch shocks still support the hatch, but they only hold it wherever you let it go at they won't lift it on there own, my problem with the hatch is the spring loaded tab that's part of the latch mechanism that is suppossed to lift the hatch enough to clear the latch when popping the hatch is all bent out of shape and the pivot is to loose to hold it straight so to pop my hatch I have to be lifting up on it while hitting the button on the remote.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

New Monroe rear hatch-lid shocks are $26.00 (for both) at rockauto.com

I'll probably order some tonight.

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Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

My problem is with the latch, I circled in red the part where the problem is, its bent and the pivot point is too loose so it won't stay under the loop on the hatch. Thats 26 bucks worth of shocks that I don't need right away that can go toward a new high power alternator that I will need sooner rather then later.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Holy ****, thats a big box........you need a stealth box.

And the t-top chades.....mine came with my car back in 1998. I'm sure they're on ebay.

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Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

The box is a hold over from my last car and the sub is a 15 and that box is actually the smallest I've had that sub in (I cut 4 inches off the back the last time I redesigned it) once I get it sold I will be designing a new box for 2 12's that will involve removing the back seat. By the way the sub is an Eclipse Titanium 15.