Spitfire557

iTrader: (3)

Car is a 2000 Trans Am with factory Monsoon 10 speaker system. I bought the car a week or so ago and only the rear two hatch speakers worked. Long story short, car's audio system is completely fubar'd and gutted.

Here's my idea (for now): start from scratch and run a 6 speaker (door panels, sail panels, and hatch area) system directly from the headunit. The chances of me being able to reuse the Monsoon amp or factory stereo wiring are zero.

I've already ran new speaker wiring to both door panels. PO had already run speaker wiring to hatch area speakers.

QUESTION: How can I run power to sail panel speakers? There are only 4 speaker outputs from headunit, can I have right side sail panel/hatch area 'share' an output? How would I wire this? Sail panel and hatch area speakers are 4 ohms each.

Thanks.

Spitfire557

iTrader: (3)

Some pictures of the previous owner's fabulous work



Factory Monsoon amp:



Harness:

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Run them in parallel not in series and you'll be fine. If you don't know what that means I'll give you an example, This is Parallel. ( don't worry about OHM's)

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

The way I run mine is to run any speaker that is in the door panels and forward to the front channel and anything behind me to the rear channel.

Spitfire557

iTrader: (3)

Okay thanks. I've attached an edited version of your image. If I have speaker wire running directly from headunit to hatch area speakers, what's the best way to splice into them to power the sail panel speakers? I'm not very savvy with wiring hardware.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I like to solder the connections, If I'm splicing in mid run I use a lighter to heat up and peel off a small section of the insulation and then solder the new wire and tape it. There are several ways to do it and youtube will have some videos to show different ways.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Before you do that, make sure your head unit is 2-ohm stable. Running pairs of 4-ohm speakers in parallel produces a 2-ohm net impedance at the head unit and not all of them can handle that. Lowering impedance creates more current flow which also creates more heat and some HUs aren't built to handle it. Most good aftermarket HUs won't have a problem (check the specs anyway) but factory units are known to fry their output sections when connected to too low a load.

Spitfire557

iTrader: (3)

This was brought up while talking to a buddy on another forum. I've decided to go the safer route and wire them in series, and then add some fade to make up for lower output.