Wires for ASR Switch
09-28-2005, 01:29 PM
#2
The ASR switch has a six-pin connector of which only five pins are actually used. It is a simple grounding momentary switch with extra pins for the ON indicator light and switch illumination. The pins are designated A through C across the bottom row (farthest from the connector locking tab) and D through F across the top row.
A - purple with white - power (12V +) for the ON indicator LED
B - brown - ground for the ON indicator LED through the electronic brake control module
C - gray - power for switch illumination (from the dash dimmer circuit)
D - not used
E - brown with white - traction control input signal
F - black with white - ground for the control input signal
When the switch is pressed, E and F are connected grounding the signal wire from the electronic brake control module. The EBCM then applies ground to the brown wire on pin B to light the ON indicator LED.
To use this for some other accessory, you will need a latching relay to convert the momentary signal from the switch into a constant power feed. Wire pin B directly to ground and pin A to the power feed of the accessory (so that the ON indicator will light when the accessory has power). Wire pin F to ground for both the illumination and to provide ground for the latching relay coil. Then connect pin E to the relay coil so that pushing the switch will ground the relay coil and turn on your accessory.
A - purple with white - power (12V +) for the ON indicator LED
B - brown - ground for the ON indicator LED through the electronic brake control module
C - gray - power for switch illumination (from the dash dimmer circuit)
D - not used
E - brown with white - traction control input signal
F - black with white - ground for the control input signal
When the switch is pressed, E and F are connected grounding the signal wire from the electronic brake control module. The EBCM then applies ground to the brown wire on pin B to light the ON indicator LED.
To use this for some other accessory, you will need a latching relay to convert the momentary signal from the switch into a constant power feed. Wire pin B directly to ground and pin A to the power feed of the accessory (so that the ON indicator will light when the accessory has power). Wire pin F to ground for both the illumination and to provide ground for the latching relay coil. Then connect pin E to the relay coil so that pushing the switch will ground the relay coil and turn on your accessory.
09-28-2005, 03:51 PM
#4
now can you tell me which wires are which that connect to the auto headlight photosensor. You can probably see what i am trying to accomplish now, i want to wire the ASR switch so that i can switch from auto to manual headlamps, worthless right? I gotta do it.
and how many pins does the latching relay have? I'm guessing i can get one at radio shack.
and how many pins does the latching relay have? I'm guessing i can get one at radio shack.
Last edited by spy2520; 09-28-2005 at 03:58 PM.
09-28-2005, 04:00 PM
#5
Both wires are light green with black and it doesn't matter which is input or output - the BCM just measures the resistance across the circuit to determine if it's dark enough out to turn on the headlights. To disable the automatic function just short the two wires together - 0 resistance means daylight to the BCM.
I don't think you'll be able to use the ASR switch to make this switchable. There isn't enough current in the sensor wires to keep a latching relay latched and the momentary function of the switch won't help much. You'd be better off to get a factory fog light switch because it has the usual on and off positions. If you peel off the logo next to the existing switches you will see that there is a spot there to mount another switch.
I don't think you'll be able to use the ASR switch to make this switchable. There isn't enough current in the sensor wires to keep a latching relay latched and the momentary function of the switch won't help much. You'd be better off to get a factory fog light switch because it has the usual on and off positions. If you peel off the logo next to the existing switches you will see that there is a spot there to mount another switch.
09-28-2005, 04:14 PM
#6
A latching relay has the same number of pins as a normal relay. It just has a diode mounted so that the power output (when triggered) will loop back and continue to keep the relay closed (latched).
You can build one yourself with a normal relay and a 1- or 2-amp diode. Solder the diode between pins 87 and 85 of the relay with the cathode end (end with stripe) attached to pin 87. Connect the negative pulse wire from your momentary switch to pin 85. Pin 87 goes to the device that you want to provide a switched ground for (your accessory). Connect pin 86 to a power supply and pin 30 to a chassis ground. Now when you trigger the momentary ground with the switch, the relay will latch in the closed position and continue to provide ground until you interrupt the power supply on pin 86.
For a positive triggered latching relay, solder the diode the other way around between pins 87 and 85 (cathode towards pin 85). Connect your positive pulse from the momentary switch to pin 85, your output wire (to the accessory) to pin 87, power to pin 30 and chassis ground to pin 86. Now when you trigger the momentary power with the switch, the relay will latch in the closed position and continue to provide power until you interrupt the ground on pin 86.
Neither of these configurations will work to disable automatic headlights because you don't want to provide either power or ground - you want to short the two wires together.
You can build one yourself with a normal relay and a 1- or 2-amp diode. Solder the diode between pins 87 and 85 of the relay with the cathode end (end with stripe) attached to pin 87. Connect the negative pulse wire from your momentary switch to pin 85. Pin 87 goes to the device that you want to provide a switched ground for (your accessory). Connect pin 86 to a power supply and pin 30 to a chassis ground. Now when you trigger the momentary ground with the switch, the relay will latch in the closed position and continue to provide ground until you interrupt the power supply on pin 86.
For a positive triggered latching relay, solder the diode the other way around between pins 87 and 85 (cathode towards pin 85). Connect your positive pulse from the momentary switch to pin 85, your output wire (to the accessory) to pin 87, power to pin 30 and chassis ground to pin 86. Now when you trigger the momentary power with the switch, the relay will latch in the closed position and continue to provide power until you interrupt the ground on pin 86.
Neither of these configurations will work to disable automatic headlights because you don't want to provide either power or ground - you want to short the two wires together.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 09-28-2005 at 04:19 PM.
09-28-2005, 06:29 PM
#7
well, as an example of a simple way to do it, neglecting the switch: if i tap a line from one of the lines to the sensor (input to simple switch), then tap a wire from the other side of the sensor (output from simple switch), the switch would allow me to switch from auto to manual for the lights right? it basically runs the standard circuit, then when switched shorts the circuit. I really wish i could adapt this to function with the ASR switch, since i already have the switch.
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09-29-2005, 07:06 AM
#8
Yes, putting each terminal of a simple SPST switch inline with the two sensor wires will allow the system to function normally when the switch is off and will turn off the automatic headlight function by shorting the two leads together when the switch is in the on position.
09-29-2005, 02:51 PM
#9
well i tried it anyway, and needless to say, it didnt go as planned. First the autolamps would just periodically turn on, then off, and then i blew the turn signal fuse, put another one in, turned the key and blew that fuse too. Dammit, i'll figure it out.
09-29-2005, 03:31 PM
#10
How did you connect the switch (and what kind of switch did you use)? I know that the simple SPST switch setup works when properly wired because I've done it on my own car. I mounted a small rocker switch in the console box because it wasn't something I needed to get at very often.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 09-29-2005 at 03:38 PM.
09-29-2005, 08:06 PM
#11
i tried using the ASR switch thinking it would only work if i hold the switch, it didnt, i just have the wires jumped for now, might have to go ****** another foglight switch even though it would probably be cooler if i find a way to use the ASR switch.
