CL21376

I thought for sure the stock front speakers were 2 ohm, so I got some Infinty kappa 60.7 cs 2 ohm speakers. But I took the factory speaker out and its a 4 ohm speaker.

Can I just continue swapping speakers, or do I need to get 4 ohm speakers instead??

Thanks....

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

Crossing ohms ill-advised.
If its a small speaker with little power output, it will change the sound frequencies some but not enough for you to notice.

I've seen so many people with thousands of dollars into thier systems, but they didnt sound like they where supposed to because they didn't know how to properly line up their system.

You cant just buy subs, an Amp, a cap and hook it up. I had to JL 12's that could outpound people with two to three times as much power, because they crisscrossed ohms, had the cap up to much, or whatever.

In short, you should line the ohms up. If they are just small speakers you should be able to get away with it, but I dont recommend it.

CL21376

Well that sucks.....

I'm just replacing my blown factory speakers, and I'm running whatever the facrtory amp is. Its doubtful I'll be replacing that any time in the near future.

So my options are:

A) put my door back together and have no front drivers side speaker and go and return the speakers on Monday, maybe tomorrow if they are open. I'll have a better selection of 4 ohm speakers than 2 ohm.

B)put the infinitys in and be done with it

I suppose I'm best going with A since I probably wont drive my car for a few days anyway....and I can be lazy and just leave my door unassembeled. hopefully i wont have any issues returing them since they were "special ordered"...

On a side note, is it odd that the magnet in the driver side door speaker is bigger than the subs magnet in the sail panel??

Thanks...

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I'd do the Infinity's. I don't think there would be any problems, I read somewhere they are 2.6 ohm, not 2 ohm so shouldn't fry the internal amp in the hu. Is really up to you, I'd do it, but there is a slight risk involved.

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

Well, if you are working on the car in your sig... the problem is you have a 94 which is a lot different than the Monsoon (97+) setup which is almost always talked about.

If you don't have a Bose system... all you've got is a normal system with head unit driving 4 regular 4 ohm co-axials.

In this case yes, you should take those infinities back and pick up some high sensitivity 4 ohm coaxials. You may well be fine using the infinities but you may also fry it.

Unless you want an excuse to upgrade the h/u as well...

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

I may just be making he water more muddy..but could you put a resistor in series/parallel (can you tell I know just enought to be dangerous) with the two ohm to raise its resistance to 4 hom?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Not really...speaker impedance is an average rating because of the alternating nature of the audio signal. It's not the same as resistance in a DC circuit.

Also, while it is usually fine to replace a speaker with one of higher impedance, it is not usually good to replace with lower impedance. The difference is that the amp (either external or built in to the head unit) may not be stable at the lower impedance.

dragonrage

Rarely will it cause a problem as long as you lower your gains to compensate. Typically Class D amps will have more of a problem than Class A[B] will.

By the way, am I the only one that finds Infinity speakers WAY too bright? I would never recommend one.

CL21376

I decided to take the Infinity's back....Hopfully there wont be a problem, although the receipt says "no refunds". I guess technically its not a refund I want, just an exchange for some other speakers.

I'll probably replace my rear speakers (4" & tweeter) while I'm doing this....the 4" is 10 ohms!!! Although I might also try and fit a 6 x 9 back there...and I suddlenly really want an amp...

todddchi

iTrader: (3)

While there is a lot of arguing in this forum, nearly everyone agrees that messing with the 4" hatch location is a waste of time.

Just my 0.02... it is good advice to figure out what your budget is up front, along with your wants (biggest decisions being head unit stock/not and subs yes/no.).

If you try doing piece meal upgrades I can almost guarantee you'll end up wasting time and money, and you'll be tearing up your interior more often than you need to. That aspect shouldn't be neglected because even the most careful installers break a clip or panel here and there.

You can do piece by piece upgrades if you are working on saving over time - but you should have some idea of the end system before you buy the first thing.

Be honest with yourself up front and you'll end up ahead in the long run.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I wasn't aware that there is a gain adjustment on the factory Monsoon amp that he is using.

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I found them bright, but turned down the tweeter to minimum(has a option to turn it up 3db's), then I don't set my highs on my hu all the way up(about 3/4) and fine tune within the hu for the highs. With the front door covers the highs are less since some loss is from the covers. In the sailpanel I set them up to not be pointing to the back of my head and at each other, then turned to fader more to the front. they sound great now. When I first put them in they were bright and had to turn them down and fine tune everything.