Have a little money, want shocks...
10-21-2008, 03:49 PM
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Have a little money, want shocks... So i've decided to buy some shocks for my TA. I've been running Bilstein HDs since my Eiback pro-kit install about a year ago (maybe more). Well needless to say, they just arent cuttin it. I really didnt understand, until after I bought them, that they arent intended for lowering springs. Theyre just a stock improvement. Soooo, I wanna buy some Konis! I've heard nothing but good things about them on this forum. And Sam Strano highly recommends them.
My questions is: Should I buy the off-car adj. or on-car adj.? I know its probably more opinion than anything. But do you guys that have Konis find yourselves adjusting them often? My car is a daily driver. I rarely go to the drag strip, and I like to do a lot of "corner carving". ( on closed roads of course
). Is the on car adjustability worth the extra $120?
My questions is: Should I buy the off-car adj. or on-car adj.? I know its probably more opinion than anything. But do you guys that have Konis find yourselves adjusting them often? My car is a daily driver. I rarely go to the drag strip, and I like to do a lot of "corner carving". ( on closed roads of course
). Is the on car adjustability worth the extra $120? 
10-21-2008, 03:54 PM
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The 3rd gen off car adjustable shocks are fine. I never adjust mine. I leave mine at full soft with Strano springs and they handle great and provide great damping for daily driving.
10-21-2008, 04:15 PM
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I can't tell you yet how great they are personally because I just bought the Koni on car adjustables myself today from Sam Strano. I can't wait to get them on though.... By the way, he has free shipping going on right now for the on-car adj shock kit.
10-21-2008, 05:44 PM
#5
Neither is wrong. Both are Koni Sport shocks. Both have the warranty. Both cover a big range of damping.
What is comes down to is how easy are they to adjust, and how fine can you adjust them?
The 4/3 rear shocks must be removed to be adjusted, which isn't hard, but does take time. The also have 4 detent settings you have to pick one of the 4. Basically full soft, +20, +50, +100% more damping. You can see the changes are big.
4/4 rears are truly "on car" adjustable, and it takes just a few seconds. And there are no preset positions on the damping. Think full soft is a touch soft, but 20% is a little much? You can get in between.
The adjustment is not meant for everyday use (though you could). Really when you find something you like you probably won't change it again until/unless you make some other change to the car that might want more shock to compensate (different springs, different tires, more weight, less weight, etc).
4/4's are generally the more recommended set. I've never heard anyone be sorry they have the ability to do just what they want. I've had a few customers get 4/3's and find later they wish they opted for the 4/4's instead. It's not a lot of folks, maybe 8-10.... But if you are buying shocks that you will have for a long while, and spending Koni money I think most are well served to step up to 4/4's. Again, nothing wrong with 4/3's, but they do cost less for a reason and that reason is ease of adjustments and just how much you can play with them.
And, fwiw we are doing the free shipping on both sets for the time being.
What is comes down to is how easy are they to adjust, and how fine can you adjust them?
The 4/3 rear shocks must be removed to be adjusted, which isn't hard, but does take time. The also have 4 detent settings you have to pick one of the 4. Basically full soft, +20, +50, +100% more damping. You can see the changes are big.
4/4 rears are truly "on car" adjustable, and it takes just a few seconds. And there are no preset positions on the damping. Think full soft is a touch soft, but 20% is a little much? You can get in between.
The adjustment is not meant for everyday use (though you could). Really when you find something you like you probably won't change it again until/unless you make some other change to the car that might want more shock to compensate (different springs, different tires, more weight, less weight, etc).
4/4's are generally the more recommended set. I've never heard anyone be sorry they have the ability to do just what they want. I've had a few customers get 4/3's and find later they wish they opted for the 4/4's instead. It's not a lot of folks, maybe 8-10.... But if you are buying shocks that you will have for a long while, and spending Koni money I think most are well served to step up to 4/4's. Again, nothing wrong with 4/3's, but they do cost less for a reason and that reason is ease of adjustments and just how much you can play with them.
And, fwiw we are doing the free shipping on both sets for the time being.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-22-2008, 10:38 AM
#7
Just make sure you understand "less adjustment". The range from soft to hard is as big.... but you have less in the middle to choose from. It's not a matter of them only covering say 50% of the total damping range.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
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10-22-2008, 04:22 PM
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10-22-2008, 04:34 PM
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Even if you had to remove the rear shocks, the job is very simple. Disconnect the rear swaybar endlinks, unbolt the top of the shock, drop the rear end, unbolt the shock from the axle, and they are out.
