Worked all day on the rear suspension. Have some questions (all one thread)
12-21-2008, 08:32 PM
#1
Worked all day on the rear suspension. Have some questions (all one thread) Trying not to **** off the readers.
So put in UMI adjustable T/A relocation, UMI adjustable T/A, UMI LCA's, UMI PHB, UMI rear relocation brackets, SLP Bilstein rear shocks and BMR rear sway Poly bushings. The ride seems much improved just need to get the front Bilsteins in and Poly front bushings.
Okay to cut the rear bumpstops 1" for an even smoother ride?
We set the pinion angle at -2.5 degrees. What is everyone else running?
What would be the best/softest bumpstops to put on the front with 1" BMR springs?
On another note the Energy Suspension rear Poly kit BMR sent had some bushings for the sway mounts but the other pieces can't be used. It didn't have end-links for the bar so we had to put the stockers back in. Is this how all kits come or does someone know the part number for the Energy Suspension rear end-links?
So put in UMI adjustable T/A relocation, UMI adjustable T/A, UMI LCA's, UMI PHB, UMI rear relocation brackets, SLP Bilstein rear shocks and BMR rear sway Poly bushings. The ride seems much improved just need to get the front Bilsteins in and Poly front bushings.
Okay to cut the rear bumpstops 1" for an even smoother ride?
We set the pinion angle at -2.5 degrees. What is everyone else running?
What would be the best/softest bumpstops to put on the front with 1" BMR springs?
On another note the Energy Suspension rear Poly kit BMR sent had some bushings for the sway mounts but the other pieces can't be used. It didn't have end-links for the bar so we had to put the stockers back in. Is this how all kits come or does someone know the part number for the Energy Suspension rear end-links?
12-21-2008, 09:54 PM
#3
How would cutting the bumpstops give you a smoother ride? Are you seriously hitting the bumpstops that much?
My pinion angle is -2, you should be just fine at -2.5.
Again are you really hitting the front bumpstops with only a 1" drop? Im at least 1 inch lower in front and .5-1" lower in the rear and I just have problems bottoming out on the T/A cross member and scraping the nose/ air damn.
My pinion angle is -2, you should be just fine at -2.5.
Again are you really hitting the front bumpstops with only a 1" drop? Im at least 1 inch lower in front and .5-1" lower in the rear and I just have problems bottoming out on the T/A cross member and scraping the nose/ air damn.
12-22-2008, 07:07 AM
#4
It's hitting some in the front on large bumps. It has to be with the way it is a harsh hit.
And the relocation brackets didn't do much. Reading here it seemed people said it would help greatly with traction after lowering. I still can roll at 20 MPH or more and burn through first and second gear like butter. So what else can be done to get some traction back? I have all the components now I think in the rear suspension.
And the relocation brackets didn't do much. Reading here it seemed people said it would help greatly with traction after lowering. I still can roll at 20 MPH or more and burn through first and second gear like butter. So what else can be done to get some traction back? I have all the components now I think in the rear suspension.
12-22-2008, 09:27 AM
#5
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Did you end up putting in z28 bumpstops? The triangle ones? If not, I'd try those.
I doubt you'll ever find comfort hitting large bumps with this car. Just gotta take it easy over them. You can't really turn this car into a hybrid lowrider/offroad machine.
I'm sure you've heard that cutting some of the bumpstops off you risk bottoming out on the shocks. You could try it, but I personally wouldn't.
Not to mention typically bumpstops are progressive (not sure what the front one looks like), but if you cut off the bottom part that's usually the lower rate of the progressive stop. Converts the bumpstop from a cushion into a brick.
Hope that helps.
I doubt you'll ever find comfort hitting large bumps with this car. Just gotta take it easy over them. You can't really turn this car into a hybrid lowrider/offroad machine.
I'm sure you've heard that cutting some of the bumpstops off you risk bottoming out on the shocks. You could try it, but I personally wouldn't.
Not to mention typically bumpstops are progressive (not sure what the front one looks like), but if you cut off the bottom part that's usually the lower rate of the progressive stop. Converts the bumpstop from a cushion into a brick.
Hope that helps.
12-22-2008, 11:24 AM
#6
It's hitting some in the front on large bumps. It has to be with the way it is a harsh hit.
And the relocation brackets didn't do much. Reading here it seemed people said it would help greatly with traction after lowering. I still can roll at 20 MPH or more and burn through first and second gear like butter. So what else can be done to get some traction back? I have all the components now I think in the rear suspension.
And the relocation brackets didn't do much. Reading here it seemed people said it would help greatly with traction after lowering. I still can roll at 20 MPH or more and burn through first and second gear like butter. So what else can be done to get some traction back? I have all the components now I think in the rear suspension.
And it "has to be" hittng the bumpstops the way it rides? No, it doesn't. In fact the front bumpstops on stock/Bilstein shocks is very short and very hard. It's near impossible to get there unless you crush the suspension. And you don't have to hit the stops to get a huge jarring hit. And you don't get a huge jarring hit from hitting the stops necessarily either. It's how the impacts are damped when you hit them... which is a shock's job. You picked Bilstein's from what I remember and with a set of lowering springs (that don't suit each other). And the ride doesn't get better from soft shocks, it usually gets worse since they can't damp the impact and the impact becomes a slamming, crashing thing...
I keep responding, and you keep flying your own way. I guess I keep doing it hoping you'll figure out what a lot of others have...
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
